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I am taking my generator off to have it checked . my battery is undercharging. according to my manual i have to re the air pump first which i assume is part of the emissions system. here in WA because of its age it doesnt have to have an emissions test.Can i leave it off

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of course it hurts you are being screwed by an elephant

I haven't been running the smog pump on my '80 for 3 years now. Hasn't seemed to hurt a thing.

You'll need to cap off all the lines to the carb, intake and air injection reaction. You can keep the e.g.r. valve in place and either cap off the vacuum line to it or leave it functioning. Leave the p.c.v. system alone.

You'll lose some gas mileage with the smog pump eliminated but nobody really complains about it.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

do you really think you will loose mileage? I thought you might gain some milage since you are not having to drive the smog pump anymore.... although I have never tested the theory

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Did a v8 conversion in 1981 on my '76 luv
Current Fleet
#1 1980 Black 2wd, #2 1980 Blue 2wd, #3 1980 Black 4x4 #4 1980 black 2wd Long bed #5 1979 black 4x4 #6 1977 red 2WD
pics
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/gs11x/

LEAVE IT OFF!!!!!!

I brought my '80 home and that was the first thing I piched in the garbage!!!!!

all it does is pump fresh air into the exhaust to make the emmisions machine "think" that the exhaust is leaner.

GET RID OF IT IF YOU CAN!!!! Probably gain about 5 h.p.

My $ .02

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"If at first you don't succeed you're doin' it wrong"

The smog pump basicly handles 2 different concepts. 1st, it provides forced air to the air injection reaction system. This system will reduce the hydrocarbons by pumping cold air to the exhaust ports. This causes an explosion which burns off more exhausts. 2nd, the smog pump provides forced air into the intake manifold thru the mixture control valve. Under decelleration, the throttle plates close which creates high manifold vacuum. Since the motor cant pull air into the engine, it will pull fuel thru the idle circuit of the carb. The mixture control valve will open during this condition and the manifold vacuum will be reduced. The lower the manifold vacuum, the less the motor can pull fuel thru the carb. This reduces the amount of spent fuel.
Removing the smog pump will reduce the amount of parasitic drag on the motor but that gain will not compensate for the fuel waste.
If you filled the tank and hit the Hwy and drove until you ran the tank low, There would be a slight chance of gaining mileage. But in normal day to day driving to work, Walmart and the parts store, you'll notice a loss in mileage.
The reason to keep the e.g.r. and p.c.v. systems is because the e.g.r. will reduce combustion temperature and it can be a pain in the ass to remove and cap off.
The p.c.v. system will help keep the engine oil cleaner, longer. Pulling crankcase vapor and blow by into the intake to be burned, blow by and vapor doesn't build up in the crankcase to blend with the oil. With the positive pressure fuel system of the LUV, excess fuel tank pressure is dumped into the crankcase. The p.c.v. system will allow the vapor to be burned.

As for running without a smog pump, if your state doesn't test for it, get rid of it. I saw it as a major source for potential air leaks. Mileage loss is quickly overlooked when you have a smooth running motor.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

The smog pump doesn't take much power to run(2-3) in good condition but they are a damn pain in the butt and in the way same as the EGR if you don't have to worry about the smog patrol the loose the junk and tune the motor you will find that it will run allot better.And do not through the stuff in the garbage cause there are people on the web site who could use the stuff.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

good looking out tjwhite

where can i find the plugs to match up with the holes in the block? or what should i use?

the threads to plug the holes are hard to find. it is 14mmx1.25 pitch. These threads are actually the same as 14mm spark plug thread.

the only other thing I could find was a oil drain plug that seams to be for a for diesel that has the same threads. although a couple of the cylinders do not seen to have a nice flat surface for the drain plug to seal.

the other options I have heard of is cutting and sealing the stock air injectors. either by crimping the tube, tapping and inserting a bolt or welding it shut.

my current truck I have left the stock air injector rail and caped it off behind the check valve.

_________________
Did a v8 conversion in 1981 on my '76 luv
Current Fleet
#1 1980 Black 2wd, #2 1980 Blue 2wd, #3 1980 Black 4x4 #4 1980 black 2wd Long bed #5 1979 black 4x4 #6 1977 red 2WD
pics
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/gs11x/