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Ok the new truck is home needing shocks as they are 31yrs old. Ok the brake question. The brakes on my 76 are to the floor I see no rust anywhere on the undewrside and the brake lines are clean. The front resivoir on the master cylinder was full the rear was empty Pedal goes to the floor whats wrong so I can take it out before snow flies. Anybody Please

Maybe leaking between the master cylinder and the brake booster, which is hard to see. Mine was leaking there,but showed no sign of fluid.

could be the rear wheel cylinders leaking.

no the front resivior is full thats the back according to my repair manual the back is the front

Mine was doing the same thing yours is. The back reservoir would go low when driving. Check all the wheel cylinders no fluid, check the calipers no fluid, looked at the master cylinder no fluid. But when I took off the master cylinder I could see fluid in the bore. What was happening was the master cylinder was leaking when I applied the brakes, It would pressure out the bore between the cylinder and the booster.

and where was the fluid as I dont see any leaks and what do I do?

Most likely the fluid is leaking from the master into the booster. You will not see a leak if the fluid is doing this. Pull the master from the booster and have a look, its only a 5 min job.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

if thats it what do I do then?

Clean out the booster the best you can, replace the master and drive away happy.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

thanks try in the am

I guess I'll just take it somewhere and have it fixed I mind as well have them do the shocks as well. I dont know which way to go

That is your call, but the work is easy. I would rather see you do the repairs and put the extra money you saved into another part of the LUV. In my opinion if you pay to have your LUV fixed every time something needs to be fixed, it will add up quickly, these are older cars and will take a little more repairs to keep them going.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

yeah but I dont have the time and wanted to drive it a least once

It is your call, but with a master in hand and a friend to help bleed the brakes I would assume it would take the same amount of time to take it to a shop and then pick it up.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

I got to go with Luvrv8 on this. Do these tasks yourself. The cost outlay will bum you out along with the fact that some half-assed mechanic slaps stuff together that you may need to rework to get it right.
Some stuff needs to go to the shop because you dont have the equipment like wheel alignment, welding, machine shop services and the like because it isn't practical to have such items unless you can make money with them.
But to remove and replace components with basic hand tools keeps you from spending more money that you need to. Plus it's satisfying to make something better than it was.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

ok i'll do it this weekend

That is the spirit.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Ok the master cylinder is wet looks like it leaks between the booster and the master. should I replace the master as if it is leaking and even if I clean the booster outwont it just do it again?

Yep... Carefully remove the plastic resevuiors and swap it out with a new one. You could try and rebuild it but it's just best to turn the old one in as a core.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

thanks