LUVTruck.com

Almost Missed That, Sorry RPOZ11

Yeah I'll Take A Few More Pics Than Buckle everything Back Down and Measure

I've Actually Bolted My Fenders On and Eyeballed Everything and The Fit What Appears To Be Pretty Darn Close To The Stock Location With a Set Of Older Model Camaro Wheels They Fit In The Finderwells Just Fine

No Go-Cart Appearing Wheel Abstruction Here

I Have Came Accross One Prob The Only Way To Use A 92 and Up Camaro Style Wheel Is To Run A 17.

The 92 and Up 16 Have A 6 Inch back Spacing And Rub The Upper Control Arm

The 17 Are Tall Enought To Clear Even Though They Have A 6-6.25" Back Spacing

However If You Go With A 17" Wheel I Suggest A 8" Instead Of The 9.5" Wide Wheel Because Clearrances Are TIGHT!

BUT THIS IS WITH STOCK SPINDLES! Please Note That Most Problems Should Be Fix With 2" Drop Spindles Because It Will Raise The Center Point Of The Hub

But Older Model Camaro/S10 Wheels Do Just Fine With No Additional Problems ( I Think Most of Them Have A 4-4.5" Back Spacing ) Plus These Year Model Wheels Are More Common And Normally Alot Cheaper

Or You Can Go old School, Skinnyz Work Perfict!

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So you run a ranger rotor on an s-10 spindle?

Am I looking at your pictures right, the lower ball joint is bolted to the bottom of the lower a arm, if so do you trust all of the weight of the front on that small of a flange with 3 bolts under slung?

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Looks like 4 bolts and 1/2 " plate . Looks like I'm shopping for s-10 junk now

LUVRV8
I considered that as well!
Made me think that making a lower control arm specifically for that ball joint/spindle app would resolve this....
just my thoughts though.

Good Point

and I Have Thought Of That

I Actually Thought About Cutting The Lower Control Arm and Making One Out Of Square Tubing, But This Idea Came To Me After Replacing Ball Joints On A 93 S10

Look At A Factory Ball Joint, Little Thicker Then A 1/4" and Its Cast Steel

What I Use Was The Highest Rated Steel In Our Towns Metal Shop

And All Bolts Where Just Use For Mock Up But There Grade 8 Chevy Head Bolts

and Additionally S10 Ball Joints Are The Same Part Number As Most Of Your Older Camaro/Trans Ams, Most Cars Weighing Around 3600 lbs.

Not To Forget A Good Number Of These Cars Where Big Block

They Worked For Chevy For Years, Might as Well Use What You Know Is A Good Product

BTW Them Are S10 Rotors, But Yes A Ranger in The Late 80's Early 90's Has The Same Inner Bearing, The Outer Are Different Because Of Hub Size


Oh One More Thing I'll Post More Pic Tomorrow Including Additional Pics as Requested Of The Lower Control Arm, Part Numbers, and Adapter Plats

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I Actually Believe It Will Hold Up

I Wouldn't Have Posted My Idea If I Thought It Would Get Someone Hurt

I Just Knew The Lower Ball Joint Wouldn't Work Up Side Down

I Also Knew That The Upper One Off A S10 Would Work (Direct Bolt In Almost) I Have Seen and Help Put Them Into Use W/ Factory Spindles

I Look At It This Way, The Old Rule Of Hot Roding When Something Like This Holds You Up When You Are So Close, Fabricate and Make It Work

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Being a mechanic and race car fabricator I would have to look at this closely in person before I would ride in that truck.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

1/2 " plate is way stronger than that ball joint ever hoped to be. Is your concern that it might bend?

I have several concerns. First is a under slung ball joint. Second is the drilling of the a arm, it weakens it and if you weld it it could weaken it more, heat will even turn chrome moly into mild steel. And the last worry I have that if you over build with too thick of metal it could cause a nother part to fail, like if it is too strong and sends the forces to other parts that were not designed for it.

It is his project so if he feels it is good then he can have it, I would rather spend the extra few bucks to get a well engineered product. I love when people come here with cheap and un proven ideas with brakes and talk about spending a grip of money on a engine. Wouldn't it be better to have a set of good brakes to stop the H.P.??

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

I Didn't Drill The Control Arm I Used The Factory Bold Holes. Secondly I've Been Working On Suspension Components For Close To Nine Or Ten Years. So I'm Not Just Jumping In Here And Saying This Will Work All While Wearing A Blind Fold, As I've Once Have Already Said I Wouldn't Have Posted This Idea If I Thought It Would Get Someone Hurt. Just Think The Lower Control Arm Of A S10 Is Thin Stamped Steel, The One On The LUV Is I Beamed Design W/ Reinforced Bolt Holes. Might I Add A Blazer ( Which Is What The Spindles Came Off From ) Weighs In At A What, Near 4000 lbs., And A Luv Soaking Wet Weighs What 3000 lbs.The 1/2 Holes Where Drilled W/ A Diamond Tip Bit Witch Cut Through It Like A Knife Through Butter, The 2" Hole Was Cut With A Layth. So Very Little Heat Comes Into Play. The Same Amount Of Weight That Would Be On Top Of The Control Of Is Still There, Just On Bottom. I've Also Left Plenty Of Extra Steel To Brace Itself On The Lower Control Arm. The Upper Control Arm Was Basically Untouched. The Closest Thing To Being Dangerous On This Project Would Be When I Smooth The Edges On The Spindle, Which They Was Way Less Than An Eighth Of An Inch Taken From It. If You Want To See It Up Close Come On Over, Or Wait A Day Or So And I Will Post Closer More Detailed Photos Of The Object Under Discussion.

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I personally like the idea

http://myspace-654.vo.llnwd.net/01351/4 ... 7654_l.jpg

IMHO seems heavy duty to me , but i'll probably run aerospace system .

The Passenger Side Looks Better, LOL Dunno Why I Didn't Post A Pic Of It.

Gotta Back Side Pic Though

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106 ... 010304.jpg

I Have No Clue Why I Am Just Now Posting It.

I Actually Have More Pics I Need To Post

I Will Post Them All Tomorrow W/ More Pics To Show Everything On The Suspension.

Also Doesn't A S10 Front Caliper Have A Greater Clamping Force Than A LUV

( Looks Like It Should )

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ok, what did you do to the lower control arm to make it "Y" shaped at the end? like in this pic...



now if you were to make a CAD drawing of the lower ball joint mount. so i could have a pair made, id defianantly do this to my luv.

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"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

Hmmmm.....

I Will See What I Can Do Joe

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i still dont understnad what you did to the lower contol arm. did you take 1 larger piecut out of the center, or did you do 1 cut donw the center, and then pie cut the 2 sides and bend them out?

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"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

LOL Again I Need To Take A Pic Of The Passenger Side...I Haven't Clearance That Side At The Time The Pic Was Taken, I Just Slightly Smooth The 2 Hard Edges. There Is My White Paint For Where I Made My First Template That You Will Also See On The Other Side, I Know I Will, Tomorrow Pix Galore Of The Suspension, Brakes, And My Truck

Maybe Even My Car For The Fun Of Things..lol For Hotrod80 Ya Know, He Seems To Like It

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so is how your LCA is right now what a stock bottom looks like. you didnt cut it or anything?

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"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

Yup sept basically the plat for the ball joint is home made not Isuzu and the plate is relocated to the bottom as well all know by now, instead of the top.

Plus the inside of the pie (lol) is smoothed off

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well shit, if i ever v8 my truck, or just wanna get a set of cragars on that damn thing ill have to do it this way!!

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"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."