LUVTruck.com

OK I have searched for anything on this webisite and I cant find nothing so I need some help with this...

Does anyone know how to install a NEWER Delcotron CS alternator in a luv??? Its off of a '87 Camaro; 105 amp

What I found out so far by searching the internet is that:

"S- is a heavy gauge wire to the battery supply"

^----question from me... Is that always hot or switched?? And can I just jump the wire to the BATT termainal on the alternator

"F- Not used

"L- a small gauge wire that comes form the idiot light light and engages or excites the alternator"

^-----question from me: is there already a wire that already has that on a stock luv that is the idiot light, what color is it?, and does it have at least 35 or more ohms?

"P- Not used"


I guess if nobody knows I will try it out this weekend and I will let everyone know how I did it...

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well, rule of thumb on the typical GM 3-wire alternator is:

THe big fat red one goes to your battery
one of the spade connectors coming out of the alt will go to your idiot light (**THIS IS IMPORTANT!** If you dont have your idiot light to excite the feild it will not charge)
The other spade connector is for battery voltage (just a wire from a KEY-ON source will work)

The trouble i had on my luv, and what you need to know about yours is if its internally or externally regulated. My GM alt i am using is internal, so i had to take out the regualtor and find which wires were my "power on w/ key" and the charge light.

Your charge light is pretty much a hot signal, when it is in the alt with the car off, the F (or field) terminal on the alt will be gounded, hence your charge light is on. When you start the car and the alternator starts putting out, that ground (or negative) signal will become postitive, hence your charge light will go out as long as the voltage produced is above what the light is givin to come on (12V).

Sorry if you already knew all this, but just find out if your alt is internal or external and if its a 1, 2, 3, or 4 wire setup. some aftermarket alternators will have 4 so they can be used with any setup. goodluck and let me know if this helps

It is internally regulated. I guess its different than the three pin. It has 4 pin not including the BATT wire terminal.

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i found this diagram, you can kinda make heads and tails of it, lol.


Where it says PLFS is the connector, i believe its the same as your inline 4 wire

I can make out L as your charge light

hope that helps a little...I have onDemand 5 at my shop, ill check tomorrow if you still need some help, i should be able to find a good wiring diagram

If your 4 wire connector is the 4 pin weatherpack type, Powermaster sells the plug kit. It will make it the so called 1 wire alternator. All you will need then is hook it to your power source.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

That one wire set up works good i use them all the time haven't used the newer ones though but when in doubt i go to the alt/starter rebuilders and find out or you could talk to some moron at Shucks and really get confused

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

yeah i still dont have it hooked up yet. I am scared i am going to fry something....

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I think the powermaster pigtail is around 30 bucks. Works great! Some of the 1 wire alt kits they sell come like this. Or at least they used to. I sold a 100 amp big block setup to some one in Ill. That's the way it was for sure.

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

So it did have the newer style of alternator on it. (CS-130)?

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Yes it did. I know for a fact it came from powermaster because my buddy bought it new and i installed it for him. The alt even had a GM number on it.

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Hmm. Well I donno. I thnink I am going to "build" my own

I have looked enough now and found the most likely way to go with this. I am going to radio shack and buying a resistor for my L plug. and the S plug is just a voltage sensor so that'll go to the battery also.... Easy as pie... I hope

I think this is right. Right?

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You'll still have to rewire the external voltage regulator wiring, I believe. Never done a Luv, but on the pre 72 Chevy's I always had to.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

well i was going to do away with all the external stuff. start from scratch

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Some one had this.

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Looking for that special LUV.

Man , this is the one I was looking for . It completes my alternator wiring . My dash light will now work . Thanks guys

is that a diagram for a externally regulated GM alternator?

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OK I got it put on last night, froze my ass off!

I putta 75 ohm resistor on the stock white/red wire that comes from the dash idiot light and used that as my exciter wire. (brown wire on the alternator).

I used the stock charging black BATT wire for my voltage sensor wire (big red wire on alternator) and BTW the stock wire w/o the resistor has about 6 ohms.

and then I ran new 8 gauge wire to the battery for my main chargin wire.

But of course I had to build a lower alternator bracket to hold the new GM alternator, the top one worked just fine.

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I was able to buy the adapter with the resister at the tractor supply house ( kobota ) here in town . It was like $8 . I also had a hard time with this . Glad you got it figured out.

sorry to bring up an old thread but after reading it all, i assume i can run a stock s10 alternator the same way on my 76?

Are there any indications as to which wire is which if you do not have the harness for the alternator (in other words you don't know what color wires go to the alternator)?

I got an internally regulated 3 wire alternator just now and want to hook it up as my charging system is cooking my battery (Which I need).

So, with +12 at the output terminal of the Gm alternator, one wire should be putting out +12 when the engine is off, and this is the warning light wire, if I am not sure. The other wire does nothing and has no output (The wire that should be connected to the switched battery lead) when the motor is off. Is this correct?