LUVTruck.com

ok well im kind of short on $ and i want to paint my truck. so im thinking of sanding and primeing it my self and if its not to hard to paint it too. so can u guys help a brother out?

just remember....the key to a good paint job is good prep work.

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I like my steak like I like my women, young, tender and bloody.

All I need is my weed, women, and wine. -Edge City Outlaws

make sure you got the right fluid tip for the paitn ye rusing, air pressure.. gun pattern... allow the right flash time....the sorts...

can u guys tell me what sandpaper to buy and what to use to sand, and what primer to buy.

im painting mine to but im only gonna do the primer. i used a medium grit to sand the paint down. then primering it and im gonna use a real lite grit to smooth n e little mistakes out. hope this helps

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1980 4x4 header stock motor lifted 4 1/2 in. in the rear and 3 1/2 in the front

do u guys sand it by hand or u guys use something else?

i used one of those "vibrating" sanders. it seams to work rather well except for the stripes i have to use a gasket knife for those.

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1980 4x4 header stock motor lifted 4 1/2 in. in the rear and 3 1/2 in the front

ok . can i prime it with cans? if so howmany do i buy?

im using cans. get 10- maybe 12. that should do u pretty good.

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1980 4x4 header stock motor lifted 4 1/2 in. in the rear and 3 1/2 in the front

ok ill start tomorrow. can u guys tell me what grid sand paper and how much sandpaper. im going to sand by hand i have the whole week off so no school

Be carefull about primering with cans. You need to make sure that you buy the exact same stuff. If it's a different shade, it will show when you paint the truck. That much rattle can paint is gonna be expensive. You might be better off finding somebody with a sprayer and borrow their eqipment.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I agree with what Blue Meanie said, you might as well find someone with a sprayer and use real automotive primer, if you do it by rattle can, you will have strip all that primer off when you are ready to paint it. In the long run that would be more expensive and a lot more work! Just a note too, professinal autobody primer is pretty pricey and like I mentioned earlier in the post, whatever paint you chose for your truck will not be compatable with rattle can primer!! Don't want to rain on your parade but you can do it, but it won't last long that way.

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RIP R.J.B.

use atleast 220 grit and prime over that, and fi you get the primer that needs sanded use 400-500 grit then paint it. transtar prime is 23 a quart... you should only need 2 quarts, or less if done right... and really you dotn need to prime anythign but where the rust is showing.... the rest cna be sanded with 4 or 5 hundread grit and painted over.... Ercylic enaml is cheapest way to go, and if you buff it and wax it right, you cna get the sma eif not mroe shien than base coat clear coat. need help le tme know... i do this stuff for a living

Just out of curiosity, 4x4vette man, what kind of paint are you using that you can blow over 4&500 grit scratches and not see tham through the paint? Out of the years Ive been doing it, Ive never seen anyone use less than 600 before shooting it. Ive seen 320 before a seal coat, but thats pretty thick building stuff.

lol. well i got the sand paper and stuff but havent started

i sanded mine by hand. you'll use close to 10 cans of primer

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1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio

well so far ive done the back door

Back door? You must mean the tailgate.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

yeah that!

this is what i have so far