LUVTruck.com

On the desktop pic, you can see the center groove on the bearing. Check this same area on the crank journal. You'll need to remove any buildup of material so you dont wreck the replacement bearing. This goes for all the journals. It looks like you're gonna be spending some time on the garage floor dressing up the crank.
This is why i would recommend pulling the motor and bolting it up to an engine stand. Laying on cold concrete always kicks my butt.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I wish I could do all that, but it's gonna be concrete for me. I don't have the hoist, or the engine stand. Even if I did have it, I'd not have any room for it in my shop, which is extremely small. Thanks for the specific advice, I will focus there.

Question: Is 400 grit too coarse for the rod journal? I think so. I got 400 for the top of the block. You can see the condition of the cylinders isn't too good. I tried to get a dingle berry yesterday, and the clerk answered me without blinking!!! "Nope, we don't have those." I owe BlackLuv80 an apology! I'll have to look around to get a dingle berry.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

I'd try using a scotch-brite pad first. Bearing material is softer than the crank. Scotch-brite might take most of the surface buildup off at least. It wont raise hell on the journal. Strips of emery cloth will work as long as you dont go crazy. The idea is to remove the buildup.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

You may get results with a "bead hone" dingle berry hone works as well around here not sure about the west siders....

1st you cuss me because of a door hinge you said didn't work worked....now your teasing my southern twang...lol

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Well I think you're a very cool person, and I wish you nothing but the best.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

i used it and works great

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http://bonsaint.com/luvalbum2/index.htm

more pics of my 76 406ci 4 spd posi.

I made some progress today. I got the front of the block cleaned, and pulled the hoses off the heater core tubes in preparation for removing the heater inside the cab and finding the leak I mentioned before. I ran some 600 grit sandpaper over the top and front of the block. I've measured the pistons, and they all run about standard, 3.3055". I measured the crankpins, all about 1.930". I went ahead and ordered standard rings and rod bearings from PartsAmerica. I also ordered a cylinder hone from http://www.mytoolstore.com/ . It is part#2833 from KDTools, listed on that website. It has a 240 grit, and should work well for deglazing. I know not to overdo it, and it makes me feel a lot better knowing I'll have a new hone for the new rings.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

I also got a closer look at that damaged bolt head near the timing chain. I had known there was something having to do with oil flowing through there, but I was sort of holding my breath till I had to look at it. When I finally took it off and studied it, I learned there are two tiny passages for oil jets that spray the timing chain on each side of the crankshaft sprocket. The bolt is just small enough to allow oil flow into the fitting which has these oil jets (or holes) placed at an "8 o'clock" and "5 o'clock" position. I realize this part would have been ruined if I had continued running the engine much more. It was only 1/16th of an inch away from cutting into the "5 o'clock" hole. If you click and enlarge these photos, you should be able to see the holes clearly. This part installs one way and doesn't turn. Page 5 of this thread has another look at this part before it was removed.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

Thanks


Phew! Looks like you where cutting it close. So you found a "dingle berry hone" or flex hone.



For those who think we are crazy there is a few images of what they look like.

Well I wish you good luck friend and hope to see that little yellow luv doing burn outs soon.

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Sorry to bore ya, but I just want to get from point A to point B. If you checked the link I gave ya, you'd see that the one I got was a straight stone, not the dingle berry. The dingle berry is about twice the cost. I did find a source for it, but stayed with the straight stone. It's going to require more carefulness, but I think I can handle it.

I'll always call those deglazers a dingle berry hone though!!

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

wish i was there john i have all that stuff..sorry

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http://bonsaint.com/luvalbum2/index.htm

more pics of my 76 406ci 4 spd posi.

Well I can ask you a quick question. On the black ring around the top of each cylinder, should I scrape it with a knife, or just let the hone take care of it? Will the carbon fill the pores of the stone and take away some of it's abrasive ability?

I wish you were here too Bill.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

You can scrub it clean with some scotch-brite pads if you want. It would be best to run a ridge reamer on each cylinder. This would get rid of the carbon build up and relieve the step where there isn't any cylinder wear. This will insure that the hone will be uniform completely thru the bore.
It wont take much to remove the glazing of the cylinders and get that cross-hatch pattern.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

i agree with Blue Meanie. i used a ridge reamer on all my motors

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http://bonsaint.com/luvalbum2/index.htm

more pics of my 76 406ci 4 spd posi.

I worked on the heater unit today. I removed it from the cab, and took photos along the way. I found the foam rubber cushion between the air inlet and the opening was wet and the opening badly rusted. I scraped it, wire brushed it, and sprayed primer on it. The book didn't say, but I had to take off the air inlet before I could get the unit removed from under the dash. You can see from the photo of the entire unit that the leak is coming from above the heater core, so I will be focusing on sealing the air inlet. I'm thinking about letting the foam dry out, then applying a large bead of silicone sealant when I replace the air inlet. I also thought about replacing the foam with a different cushion. Maybe I could use some door weatherstripping!!

After studying the photos, I am beginning to wonder though. It looks like the leak might be just off the air inlet; see how the rust starts away from the cushion in the last photo? Notice the black mark on the left of the rusty opening. I better give it another hands-on look and scrape it away to see if there's a leak through the metal.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

Yup listen to them, they know what there talking about. I always use a ridge reamer on any engine that I don't punch over.

Ah well a bar hone will do the job....I just prefer a bead hone leaves a prettier looking cylinder in my opinion.

Good luck john with your build, can't wait to see you and your boy rolling down the streets in that little yellow luv looking for chicks....lol...just kidding you don't need to get in that kind of trouble with your wife..

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I admit the dingle berry or bead hone leaves a better surface for the new piston rings to seat to, but I'm hoping to achieve a close second-best. I don't have a lot of wear on the cylinder, and a bar hone will be acceptable. I don't have a ridge remover. I don't see any ridge or feel any ridge. Of course I will photograph the results when it's done.

I looked some more at the heater and the leak trail. The rust marks seem to indicate there was a leak...at the wiper arm shaft. I know this topic has been covered here before, and I also put the boots from some ignition wires on my shafts back when I painted the cowl black. I skipped the grease though. I stand corrected, and I better take it apart and redo it; this time with some heavy grease like 800xl told in January of 2003.
http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.ph ... per+shafts
I know it wasn't the coolant from the engine, so I don't have to examine the heater unit any further. I'm just going to put it back in. Tomorrow.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

mine don't see any wet weather lol. its like driven on pure ice with just a damp road. also in a garage when not used.. ua could say my luv is spoiled lol.

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http://bonsaint.com/luvalbum2/index.htm

more pics of my 76 406ci 4 spd posi.

I didn't put the heater unit back in today because as I was cleaning up the area, I noticed the wiper pivot bolt bracket is broken all the way across. From the angle I was working in yesterday I couldn't see the crack, and so when I found it I decided to take it apart and fix it. I'm going to super glue it, and then coat it with JBWeld. If you have this part and want to let me know, I might replace it. It doesn't need to be completely disassembled; if only as far as the third photo, it would be fine. I'm still going to try the repair.



The first two photos were taken through the ashtray area. LUV owners might look through there to check their bracket too.



It was difficult to remove the white plastic bracket from the bolt. Notice the snap ring in the fourth photo.

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'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

Geez John, at this rate, you'll be changing out the axle seals in about 2 weeks. If this keeps up, you wont have the truck back together when the weather clears up in the spring.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.