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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:23 pm 
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I worked several hours today cleaning the grime off the front cover. I also installed the crankshaft oil seal into the cover. In these two photos you can see the result of scraping, spraying, rubbing, brushing, and sanding. If you look closely at the inside of the cover you may spot another gouge mark where the chain ran rampant.

I'm quitting for the day.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 7:17 pm 
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I had a great time having Eric Q over today, and among other things we pulled a piston out from the #3 cylinder. I removed the cap, and when I just pushed up on the connecting rod, Eric took the piston and lifted it right out. Here is the piston.

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I noticed the oil control rings seemed to be pretty tight and flush against the piston, while the compression rings were loose and springy. I wonder if replacing the rings will look the same, or if the oil control rings should also have at least some springiness. I need some expert opinions and advice.

A special thank you to Eric and I hope we meet again.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:11 pm 
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Blue Meanie wrote:
You're feeling relaxed about it and you're not going to get in a hurry.
That's the smartest gameplan that anyone can take. Taking time to figure out stuff like the tensioner mechanism will give you a deep understanding on how it all will work as a unit. And you were reading thru the manual. Man, you're making all kinds of brownie points today! These pics are great! This alone is valuable to the uninitiated.

I'm so proud... I think i feel a tear welling up in my left eye.



I was just catching up on this thread and this quote is exactly what I was thinking. Good job FullaLuv. On my 80 (My first LUV truck rebuild) I took the eng. all apart to figure it out too. Then I took it to a shop to have him rebuild it. This second time (on my 78), I just pulled the eng. out and took it to him complete.

I applaud you on your ambition and guts to dig in there to the unknown.

Oh. And from what I know, I think the rings should all be about the same in springiness. On mine, some were pretty gummed up and stuck in the groove also.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:34 pm 
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In this pic, im concerned that the wear on the oil wiper ring isn't consistent. The top arrow shows an indication that the ring gap rode deep in the groove. The bottom arrow shows were consistent wear starts and is even around the rest of the ring.
Can you see any vertical marking in the cylinder?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 9:16 pm 
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Here's a couple of pictures that were taken just now of the #3 cylinder. I don't see any vertical lines. I haven't removed the other pistons yet. I'm not too sure about the uneven wear. Tell me if you want any more photos.

I saw the oil control rings and the expander were very tight in the groove. I think this could already be an indication of oil bypass, but remember I didn't leave a cloud everywhere or anywhere. I just don't know if I should do the rings or not. The rod bearings are worn though, huh? They're a standard size. I haven't cleaned the rings yet to check for a specification.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 9:26 pm 
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I noticed the black mark on the second photo seems to indicate a leaking valve stem seal, huh? Maybe I should check through the spring on the #3 exhaust valve and see if it rode up on the stem...

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 12:04 am 
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Piston rings are cheap, I would get a set. If you hone the bores and rering along with the head you just had done you should be in great shape. I like the way you read up on the task before diving in, I think you should have no problem with the reassemble.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 12:13 am 
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That rod cap looks like it's seen better days. You'll be checking the others when you work all the rings. I'd pull a main cap or 2 to check those bearings. If they look worn, I'd pull the motor and get it all reworked.

Like you said, you're not gonna be in a hurry about it.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 3:05 am 
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for going that deep and for the price id do bearings, rings, hone cylinders, and polish crank. but what ever, :wink: good luck on it.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 10:06 am 
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I'm looking for the parts. I plan to do the rod bearings, the rings, and deglaze the cylinders. I'm not removing the crank, and I hope that isn't going to come back to haunt me. I might replace the pistons too, although I don't see any cracks in the one so far. I haven't really cleaned it up yet though. I gotta go out to get some brake cleaner and WD-40. I don't want rust to get out of hand while I'm waiting for the parts. I'm going to check on that dingle berry hone that the Georgia man so eloquently labeled. I'm going to ask my wife to help me take ahold of the pistons as they come out, but she's just 4'9". I have a ladder for her. I guess the pistons will rest on top the block until I get up there.

Polish the crank? Do you mean with some 600 grit? I know you wish you were here Bill, but some people just have all the luck!!! :smt116

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 10:23 am 
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I hadn't read up to your comment Meanie and thanks for that suggestion. I hope it doesn't make me just keep going all the way to the rear brakes!!!!

I haven't looked at the brakes shoes, or the pads in front. I know the LUV stops on a dime, that works for me. The master cylinder is rusted badly, but the fluid isn't leaking or low. If it isn't broke, don't fix it.

I still have the heater to take out and find the leak on too. Eric Q saw the rust spots on my new liner when he was here yesterday. We sat in the cab for a little while. He ran a guilt trip on me having a non-stock dome light. I barely slept last night I felt so bad.

Kidding. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 10:57 am 
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i polished my crank with wet dry 1000 grit. not alot just enough to show me nothing was there. when u pop out piston the rings should hold it up til u can get up there and remove them. also id do new crank bearings while i was i there. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:30 am 
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You said " I hope it doesn't make me just keep going all the way to the rear brakes!!!!"
Well i got news for you. Once you fix one thing, you'll notice something else that isn't right. It's a vicious cycle and it seems to be never ending. But it doesn't need to be a bad thing. Each time you finish a job, the overall package gets better and better. The thing that will cramp your style is a component or system failure ( fuel system stops pumping fuel or the charging system quits and the like). This kind of jazz eats up time and money just to get things back to where they were before the truck quit.
And you'll put up with it because you dig that little truck.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:31 am 
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You know we should see if Ben would like to make this a sticky and we should label it how to rebuild 1.8 by fullaluv it seams to be a step by step processes so for... just a thought what you think ben and fullaluv maybe?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 2:10 pm 
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I'm with Nascar44, After looking at your photo of the rod bearing, I'd put new main bearings in. ALso, if you just use WD40, it will flash off after a short period of time and then your parts will rust. Put a light coat of oil on the parts and keep them checks, especially if it rains a lot in your area. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:51 pm 
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Wow, a sticky. I've never been so honored. It would certainly be my pleasure and my commitment to continue this through and make it something that all and anyone will enjoy. I want my LUV to treat me well, and I intend to do the best I know how. Part of that has become learning from the rest of you out there, and I will always be grateful for LUVTruck.com and those who made it all possible.

Thanks mytmouz, for the advice on a heavier oil coating. I'll do that.

Ctmandu, thank you for regarding this thread so highly.

Blue Meanie, thanks for pushing me just enough to get started. I'll give those main bearings a look.

Bill, thanks for the experienced advice.

Luvrv8, I have every confidence I'm going to get it right.

Rondog, thanks for your support.

BlackLuv80, I wonder if Nikki's over there. I painted the door hinge, and I'm using it for a paper weight. I'll install it soon!! Glad you liked the vid.

I had to go out, so I let another day slip away. It's freezing here anyway, but I got some 400 grit to do the top of the block, and I better do it soon as I can bundle up and get out there. I'll coat some oil on it right after I get it. It's not raining on the entire front end of the LUV; it's under the tarp.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:52 pm 
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Ok, I checked the compression rings and bottom half of the #3 rod bearing. The rings have an "N" and a "T" The rod bearing has "STD". Now I'm not as experienced as some of you, but I think I can go ahead with standard-sized rod bearings. I'm actually going to hold on until I've looked at all of them. I thought I was ready to order, but when it comes time to make a choice, I don't have the decision made. For the rings, I have no answer to what the letters mean.

Anybody know?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:38 am 
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I'm not finished taking out all the pistons. I plan to do so today. I figure on doing a measurement of the ring gap in each cylinder just to give me a general idea of where I'm at. My pistons are marked D, C, D, C in that order. My Series 8 manual lists them as Standard sizes, but they are 0.010mm in difference. Would that make it so I couldn't order a full set of rings, but instead might need to order 2 of each size? That's going to be more expensive since a set is generally a bargain.

This is a very important issue to me, really. You know the clearances are critical to an engine's performance.

Here's a measurement. I checked the #3 piston, and I get 3.3055", and the manual says the "D" piston should be 3.3061-3.3065". Do any of you think this is too loose?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:59 pm 
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0.010mm is tiny (0.0004 of an inch). That's way smaller than a human hair. As long as each piston fits each individual bore correctly, it will be fine.
Dont fall prey to over thinking the project. There should be a measurement for piston to cylinder clearance. Using a feeler gage will give you a piston to cylinder tolerance. This needs to be done before and after you hone the cylinder. If the tolerance is too great before you hone, you'll need to oversize with new pistons and boring. If it's within tolerance before you hone, measure after you hone to make sure it's still within tolerance.
Most machine shops will want the new pistons before they bore any cylinders. This way they can fit the bore to each piston to get correct tolerances. Any differences between the cylinders is so slight that it will not be noticable.
When you remove the other pistons, take note of the ring markings. What marked ring is in each ring groove and does the marking face up or down in the groove. Draw pictures if you have to. I did on alot of stuff i've worked on. MS Paint is great for stuff like that. This will be for reference only. When you get a new set of rings, the manufacture will have directions and markings that they will specify what rings fit where and how.

Im really glad to see that you're taking a serious approach and you want this to be correct but try not to over think this. Micro-engineering the project will fry your mind and keep you awake at night.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 1:43 pm 
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I'd like to joke about staying awake at night, but the truth is I've been sleeping like a baby.

I took all the pistons out. Here's a couple pics for ya. I'm using the first one for my desktop wallpaper today.

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