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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:30 pm 
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Ok, I'll go in to the parts store and ask for a dingle berry hone. LOL Sounds like it grows on a bush.

Ha ha ha ha, they'll probably laugh. No? Okay, I'll try to roust one up. Remember the crank is down there. Isn't that a problem?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:10 pm 
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LOL yeah they prob will....That is what we call em down here there ball hones? I think there called bead hones...lol I don't know the real name of em really. but yeah I would watch the crank if you do hone it. I guess you could go without doing it but I am not sure how the results would be. I have always been told to hone even if you do nothing else, get a nice pretty cross design.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:10 pm 
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Here's a closeup of my 25-amp fusible link

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:17 pm 
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Ah heck. I will wait and see what the rings look like. I don't know if I can go get that stuff...I'll have to check around. Smile. I'm going to try.

I always called it a deglazer.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:20 pm 
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Fullaluv, in your pic of the head, it looks like a little oil consumption going on in the 2 cylinders on the left.Looks like 3 & 4 with 3 being the worst. Be sure to check for cracks in the pistons while you have them out.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:23 pm 
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I have heard it called that, Just not in the south much. lol Guess they try to simplify everything down here. I normally call it a bead hone but the name just left me when I tried to think of it. I like them alot more then a bar hone. specially when it has been freshly machined.

I wouldn't worry about it if the cylinders look good I guess. Heck it may be just a stuck or broke ring. If not then it is prob either the timing chain like your said or just the miles kicking in and its burning oil.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:25 pm 
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I could be wrong but 1 and 2 look like the valve stem seals are leaking on the exhaust side...... does anyone else think this.... make sure the little spring clamps are right and not riding up when they put them on... just a thought

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:31 pm 
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I think Cat Man is right, They do appear like the exhaust is sticking open, heck it looks like you can just about see daylight through one on the intake side aswell...

That could be the loss of oil right there, if so good eye ctmandu.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:59 pm 
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The cam and rocker assy's are still in place. That's why the valves are open.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:54 am 
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Ha ha ha. I just got up, it's not quite 5:30 now, and see y'all got a debate going. Some good thoughts too.

Meanie's right about the rocker assembly. It looks like I better do it again though, to check all that stuff. I can see some marks on the pistons where the valves have gouged the piston. I did make some adjustment errors the first time around. Maybe the holes are there. I'll photograph some more today. I'll try to see if the stem seals are riding up. mytmouz, please tell me where exactly might I find the cracks in the pistons?

Do I need to remove the ridge before taking out the pistons? I don't really feel a ridge, just a blackened ring. I might just go ahead and try one.

The machine shop wants to do the block. They said from the photos the first time around that I needed it done. The price? $1300.00!!! Then another $195 for balancing. I wish I had that kinda money. They're the ones who did the valve stem seals, so I believe it was done right.

Thank you guys for all the advice. :smt111

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:15 am 
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Look for a crack most anywhere. Especially where the valves hit. Also, if they hit you might have a bent valve, best get it checked.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 12:39 pm 
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Right on. I've been sitting back reading the LUV Series 8 manual on engines, and I'm leaning toward replacing all four pistons, the rings, and rod bearings. I'm feeling relaxed about it, and not in any hurry. I might not take a piston out today; don't know yet. I do want to get the distributor out and photograph everything. Then the timing cover is coming off. More photos.

It may well be that I have to get the valves replaced and the guides. Whew! I may end up working on it for awhile. It's okay. I know I have a right to the vehicle, and I know it runs, so I'm gonna do it right as best I can, so thanks Eric, Meanie,T, Tim, & Troy, and even the Southern gentleman Shawn. (Though I think Shawn's expertise might be more toward getting laid than turning a wrench) LOL

I'll be back later tonight....

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:53 am 
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I'm back. I got the timing cover off, took almost 100 pictures, and I stopped short of removing a piston. Lots of photos to show:

Image Image

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I worked the new tensioner a little until I understood it. The last two photos here show the "LOCK" and the "SET" positions of the adjuster in that order. You can see what is happening, and why the spring has to be depressed to put it in the "LOCK" position, for component assembly/disassembly. I wish I had had this clearly explained to me. Bottom line, the tensioner has to be left in the "SET" position, or the timing chain will wreak havoc. I will do more photos later, but right now I'll tell you there was some scoring done by the timing chain to the area.

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Last edited by FullaLuv on Sat Dec 16, 2006 5:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 1:09 am 
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You're feeling relaxed about it and you're not going to get in a hurry.
That's the smartest gameplan that anyone can take. Taking time to figure out stuff like the tensioner mechanism will give you a deep understanding on how it all will work as a unit. And you were reading thru the manual. Man, you're making all kinds of brownie points today! These pics are great! This alone is valuable to the uninitiated.

I'm so proud... I think i feel a tear welling up in my left eye.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 1:22 am 
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We're having a wild windstorm tonight. I'm turning off the computer. I'll talk to y'all later Nascar44, and Blue Meanie. Every time the electricity flickers, the modem stops!!!! Later..... :D

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:17 am 
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I was going for a tissue last night but the wind blew it away!! Poor Meanie, I didn't mean to make ya cry!!!!!!!!! LOL We got enough rain as it is without you dripping all over!!!!

I put some panoramas together. They don't come out perfect every time, but they put multiple photos together in one. Here are two panorama photos of 4 snapshots each. Be sure to click on the photos.

Image Image

Notice the pistons are designated "C" and "D"? Those are piston grades, and listed on page #6-21 of the Series 8 manual. I don't find that info in the Haynes manual.

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Last edited by FullaLuv on Fri Dec 15, 2006 12:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:44 am 
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I'm going to try a video... You click on it, but if you don't have a high-speed connection I don't know how it'll work. It works for me!!! Whee! Now I can quit typing and just jabber!!! LOL Some of you diehard fanatics might want to use it to loop and go to sleep on. Ha ha ha!!!

Notice the well-organized workshop...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 1:52 pm 
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wow good job. sounds like a built motor running in the back ground lol. sorry i missed it all. :lol: by looks of it ull need my help when i get there. main thing take time and relax oh something wont be right. if u know what i mean lol. ok take care and in touch.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 2:25 pm 
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Nice video and pics FullaLuv glad to see your taking your time with the disassembling of your LUV. As already stated studying everything will give you a understanding on how it all works together to mechanically work. Cross referencing the manuals is a great idea aswell. Glad to see your taking a retrospective out look to everything before you jump in, most wouldn't try to take the time to understand it all, glass to see you dont fall in that statistic.

I will catch your later if your on. Good luck!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 2:49 pm 
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Check out these photos. Now here's what's going to happen if you don't have the tensioner working correctly. I sure am glad I heeded the warning by the machine shop to check it as soon as possible.

Image Image

Image Image
I'm going to check the timing chain for length and see if it needs replacing. You notice that sensor that I told you I repaired with JB WELD in the picture just above the laid-out timing chain? I never really figured out what hose goes on which of the two connections it has. I'll bring it up later.

Thanks guys for all the encouragement.

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