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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:10 pm 
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Yeah I Ran A Cross My Choice of Wheel By Luck, Friend of Mine Bought Some Wheels For There Ranger That Was off A 05 Mustang and I Tried Em On and It Was Like Magic. The Front Back Spacing Came To Me When I Tried A Set of SS Wheels on The Front Which Are 17"x9.5" With A 6.25" Backspacing and A 10.5 Tread Surface, I Then Measured How Much Wheel I Needed To Do Away With To Get My Full Turning Radius Back.

I Think They Will Work Well on My Truck, Can't Wait To Bolt Em Up.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:34 pm 
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
http://www.weldracing.com/a/06WELDRACING.pdf

Using the link above, i found that Weld has ProStar wheels available in 15 X 8, 5x4.75 lug pattern with 5.5 backspacing.

P/N 96-58280
Im assuming that the S-10 has a 5 x 4.75 lug pattern.
Take a look at the .pdf and see if thats correct. There's about 30 pages to the file and this rim style is almost at the end. Page 27 to be exact.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
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What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:41 pm 
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When I was looking at rims for the rear of my truck, I had a hard time getting a deal. I finally found a set on E-Bay and since I was tubing my LUV I had my 9 inch shortened to the rims (15X15 with 5 inch back spacing). Not everyone has this chance. Bottom line measure and find what you need. Make sure you allow for "tire flex", depending on the serries tire they do move when conering.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:28 am 
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I think that Blue Meanie has a good idea. All you guys with stock and s10 rear ends lets hear the tire and wheel combos with pics. I am very intrested in Hypers project. This is a project that can be done on a limited budget and in the garage that anybody can do with a little patience. What a great toy it will make.

Curious how did the pulley setup work?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:24 am 
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Doing the S-10 axle swap is a "backwards" procedure to attain a different axle. The idea that it bolts down as a direct re-fit to the LUV sells most on the swap. No welding, cutting and such. But tire and rim selection to tailor everything together becomes a problem. Guys like me live with the S-10 width just fine, some dont like it and live with it, some dont care because they just want to be able to drive it and some (like Hyperwrx) will pull their hair out getting the assy to fit like they had envisioned.
It's best to be able to fit the axle to the selected tire/wheel combo. It's backwards with the S-10 swap. That's why i think a sticky needs to be put together because so many have gone thru this and so many more will go thru this.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 1:18 pm 
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If you are going to backhalf and go with a nine inch it is better to figure out which tire/wheel combo you want. When I set up mine I took the rearend completly out and had the truck on jacks. Lowered the truck to the height I wanted measured for the width and height tire I wanted, ordered the wheel/tire combo stood them up under the truck where I wanted them and started measuring for housing width, axel lenght and all that good stuff. Thats why mine fits so close to the outside fender just the way I wanted.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 1:49 pm 
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Exactly... If you plan to go with deep dished rims, it's mandatory to build from the wheels on in.
Reworking a rear assy can be really cool if you have all your ducks in a row. The end result can exceed your own expectations.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:09 pm 
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Now What Happens When Your Ducks Get Slightly Outta Line?

Great Insight on The S10 Rear Diff Swap I Must Say.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:37 pm 
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Location: Gilbert, AZ
luvit80 wrote:
Curious how did the pulley setup work?


Engine has been in and out of the engine bay at least 8 times as I massage it in bit by bit. Due to the serpentine belt assembly protruding out the front a little more (the harmonic balancer is quite long) I has to push the radiator pretty far forward and on the back end cut some of the firewall out for a healthy fit. The distributor sits in the firewall 1/2" so to make plug wires obtainable I also cut around that. You can imagine I have quite a project to clean up the cutting mess and seal up the firewall. Height-wise I bet it all would fit under the stock hood, which is a surprise as the alternator sit passenger-side and up a bit. I am putting on a cowl scoop so I know I wont have any issues.

The serpentine belt setup came with a power steering pump and an additinal pulley or two. I pulled the PS off and removed the pullies that were not doing anything. I ended up buying a shortened belt and it fit great.

The radiator placement is really quite nice I think. I am not pushed so far forward it looks like a frankenstein project. I only had to cut a small bit of the mounting braces and fabbed an aluminum brace that holds the top part of the radiator tight against the existing Luv framework. The bottom I used an aluminum L bracket the radiator base rests behind. With it all in place I have an inch of clearence. I'm using an electric fan to push the air through. The upper radiator support I cut out but I did it very carefully so that with some underbracing I can put the upper support right back on top and it looks nice. It covers the aluminum radiator top for a nice clean look.

I have went 2nd hand on almost everything for the project as it's a break to my pocketbook. My expenses thus far.

77 Luv Truck- $600
350 ci V8/350TH- $1000ish

Engine came with- B&M oil cooler, MSD 6A, Mallory fuel pump, Autometer Tach, and mechanical gauges, and a remote oil filter mount.

Weld Wheels/Tires- $500
Alum crossflow radiator- $60
S10 10 bolt rear end- $150
S10 Front spindles/calipers/rotors w/ tie rods and sleeves- $80
NIB carpet kit- $150
S10 Bench Seat- $40
Hurst shifter- $80
Lakewood Traction bars- $35

Total to date $2695

I still need brake lines, hoses to hook up the remote oil cooler and filter mount, some sort of an emergency brake as I cut my existing out out, and the insulation to go between my floor and carpet.

I used to work at Rockford Fosgate so I have an old school set of amps I will put under the seats (Punch 45 & Punch 75) which will drive 1 10 or 2 8's and a pair of 6.5s. Will have to create a simple thin box to sit behind the seat. Gotta grab another CD player somewhere.

Gotta get it painted somehow.

When its all said and done bet I can finish this project for under $3250.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:55 pm 
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Cool, Thanks For All The Info. I Would Love To See Some More Pics, and I Am Sure Everyone Else Would As Well Specially of The Engine Installed With Everything. Sounds Like You Will Have A Sweet Ride For Just Under $3,500 Not A Bad Deal In My Opinion.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 4:59 pm 
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In my pics of my truck I have the 15x8 Prostars with a stock s 10 rear. That is how my stance looks. The backspacing I think is around 3.5. to 5.5
You can see the pics on the general forum.
Anyway ,as for me, simplicity is the key to a fast, fun little truck without a lot of headaches or expense.
Not out to win any races or shows. Just flat out fun. :P

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:12 pm 
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Update on the s10 rear/tires wheel combo saga.

New tires and rims

15x8 weld draglites with 5" backspacing
26x10.5 mikey thompson et streets

Fit is perfect. Traction bar is off as it was hitting the tire.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 6:32 pm 
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Looks good. I prefer a little wider stance though. Need to get my traction bars on too. So yours are 5 inch backspacing. My pro stars must be 3.5 since I don't come close to the frame at all. Sure do need some street drag to put on mine. Mt MT SS's are n50's and way too wide for my rims. Got rid of my six lug 10 inch wide rims. Now you talk about funny looking on a truck they were out 4 inch's or so past the bed.
Hmmm maybe my rims or 10 inch .

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:03 pm 
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Can't go much wider using a stock width s10 rear end and keeping the tires under the wheel wells. My last Welds were 3.5 backspacing and stuck out over an inch.

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Last edited by Hyperwrx on Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:41 pm 
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Yep that is about how far mine stick out. I have a stock s 10 rear. Will be getting matching rims to go with my front pacers. So I guess I need to look for a 5inch backspace.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:31 pm 
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That is a nice fit for your truck. I think you found the perfect wheel tire combo for a stock s10 rear end. I would watch those ET street tires on the street and be careful, if a grasshopper pisses in the road and you hit it you might be in for a little surprise. 8O They are great tires that hook hard but they dont like the rain.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:41 pm 
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Thanks for the warning. Luckily I'm in AZ. We get rain once a year for 10 minutes.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 8:15 am 
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Location: Hermiston,Oregon
Been in Az. when it so called rains, it's more like sombody flush a toilet as in ten min. it makes Seattle look dry. (lived in Seattle for a year)

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 11:08 am 
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Just gotta stay out of the desert washes during the monsoons.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 6:35 pm 
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Oh that woud do it :lol: Only prob. i see with the Arz. weather is to many good days to drive and not enough bad days to work on the LUV :lol: :lol: :lol:

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