LUVTruck.com

I installed a 7.5 10 bolt rear end from an S10 in my Luv. When I tried putting my Weld Pro stars on I found the bolts are not long enough to go through the wheel and allow me to put on my lugnut.

Bolts are connected onto the axles how? Press fit they appear. How do I get longer ones?

I am doing the s10 spindle/rotor/caliper conversion on the front end of my Luv and already tried to see if my 15x5 front rims would fit- negative.

25 longer bolts total. Someone know how I can get this done?

thanks in advance.

most drums have pressed in studs. When you pull of the drum you will be able to tell. If the studs stay in the drum they are most likely pressed in. You can go to a parts store and they should know for sure. If they are pressed in, then you can just beat them out, and then go to your local parts store and get longer studs.

Take a normal lug nut and thread it on to a wheel stud to where the threaded end is flush with the nut. Then take a big-ass hammer and hit the nut squarely. The wheel stud should work it's way back thru the flange. When you get close to getting it out, stop and remove the nut. Then just tap the stud free. It's easier to get the nut off before the stud is fully free.
Take the wheel stud to the parts store and they should have the same size studs in a longer length.
Once you get new, longer studs, put one back thru the flange and thread the lug nut on to it. You should be able to pull the stud into place by torquing on the lug nut.
If you have 5 lug wheels, why do you need 25 studs? I count 20 to do the job.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Yeah. Don't know what I was thinking.

Thanks for the advice on the extraction technique.

I am 1st going to grab a long shank lugnut and see if I can get it to grab.

If you plan on going to the track any, be advised that the studs have to come out past the rim, and you have to have an open ended lug so they can verify this or it will not pass tech. Since you have to change the studs, I would buy the 1/2 studs and drill the axles to accomodate them. The advantage is it will be stronger than the stock diameter stud and it's also cheaper to buy the standard lugs that the metric ones. I'd also step up to the Moroso studs as opposed to the weaker parts house jobs.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

I can see needing to fit the studs to pass tech, but going thru the hassle of upgrading the size is overkill. Longer than stock studs will do the job. The bigger concern is the center section failing. It's unlikely to loose a wheel before the differential gives out.
A serious axle needs serious studs. An S-10 assy isn't serious. Get what you got working correctly and soon you'll see it's limitations.

A lot of us have gone this same route, use what you can get your hands on and make it work. But eventually, you'll end up building something so it will work.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Actually, I don't think NHRA will let it pass tech unless it is a minimun of 1/2 stud, regardless of the diff, if it's 5 lug, unless they have changed the rules. Not all tracks pass tech though. I had a 67 Chevelle with a 8.2 rear once, bolted on a set of slicks and sheared the 7/16 studs on the right rear first pass. Nothing against using what you have, but the costs of the new parts will be the same regardless of the size, so why not upgrade if it's safer. Just my .02.

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

We may be getting ahead of ourselves. Hyperwrx is just trying to get his wheels installed at this point. If i remember correctly, his motor is built somewhat but he hasn't said anything about making a pass down the track.
We already got him in the water box getting his tires hot. We both have ideas to atain a goal but Hyperwrx may advise us that he doesn't intend to go that far with his truck (at least not right now).
I just hope that his truck runs good and he's happy with the mods.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

You only have to see the ends of the studs with slicks . Any dot approved tire you should be able to have a standard lug nut .

Hyper your weld pro stars require a special lug nut that is crager style shank , but deeper into the rim , I have these on my c-10 and they are special .

We are also gonna need an update on your progress with pics . So if you get a chance , let us know how it's going . I'm sure your spending most of your free time working on the truck .

Hmmmmm, my pro stars work fine. I have the s-10 rear also I put in. My studs come out even or further and I used the long lug nuts on them.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Define long nuts? Do me a favor and show me a picture of your lugnut please. Also how wide is your rim and what is the backspacing. Mine are 15x8 and I'm afraid I am outside the wheel well a tad (havent got the wheel on the entire way prevents me from gauging how it sits exactly). I want ti all under wheel well obviously.

This project is not going to see the strip. It's just something I've always wanted to do. I am an elementary school teacher and don't have the money to do some of the stuff I want to do and have to settle with a little less quality than I would like... but what can you do? I make do with what I can.

Thanks for the input everyone. When I get stumped all I have to do is post a question and everyone chimes in. It's really helpful.

1/2" studs don't come into requirements until you get to like 11.49 e.t. i think? lug nut must thread on the amount = to the diameter of stud. and use open ended nuts so tech can see that. not sure if that is relevant, but hope it clears some stuff up.

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front tires are overrated.

My rims are 8 inch also. They do stick out a bit but that is what i like. I will try and get a pic tonight if I can. My lugnuts are approximately 1 inch long and fit in the rim nice. My truck isn't a strip truck either. Just a fast little street ride.
I have a couple of pics in the forum but doesn't show much.
Now my M/T slicks when on stick way way out, about 4 inches worth. Looks like a wide track.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Make Sure You Are Using Long Shank Lug Nuts, Like Used With Mag Wheels.

They Are Necessary With These Wheels

They Look Something Like This



If This Isn't The Case All I Can Suggest Is To Get Some Longer Wheel Studs.

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Yep those are what I have. Glad you posted them so I didn't take mine off yet.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

Thanks for the picture.

I run the Pro Stars with Moser studs and they stick out about 1/4" past the wheel. I also run the close ended lug nuts(just my preference) and have no problems passing tech but I know the most tracks are different.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...