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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:15 pm 
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I just had the head worked on. It cost almost $200. I had it pressure tested, resurfaced, and valves ground. They installed new valve stem seals that I furnished out of my Fel-Pro head gasket set. I won't exclude human error, but I do feel pretty good about the machine shop. They've been in business since 1960.

I'll see more when I take off the head.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 10:18 pm 
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I'd go ahead and rering all of 'em. It wouldn't be that much more work or cost, plus you'd have essentially a new engine.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 10:27 pm 
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You know, I think I've been waiting for someone to say that. I agree with you.

I don't have a micrometer set, and I see the different sizes for rings and rod bearings. Any advice on this topic?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:38 pm 
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I would do a compression test before you take the head or the pan off. It might give you some more clues to wich cylinder might be having problems. if you have a low cylinder you can do a wet compressions test by adding some oil to the cylinder. if the compression comes back up on that cylinder it is probably the rings. if it does not it is probably the valves.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 5:30 pm 
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I already removed the oil pan. I think at this point, I am going to go ahead and just remove the head, and eyeball everything. I might go ahead and remove #3 piston, and check it out. I might just pull all four and see what condition the rings are in. I'm not sure what size of rings to order, if I do decide to do it. I need some fast advice, but I can't expect it all for free, and I'm going to have to cancel my inspection appointment date if I don't have it all together by December 7th. One alternative is just to leave the rings alone and go for the timing cover gasket job alone. I don't think that much oil is coming through the rings. It's just that I was at this crossroads already a short time ago and now we're here again. After all the work and expense of removing the oil pan and head, then replacing those gaskets as well as the timing cover gasket set and replacing the exhaust manifold I am going to be pissed off if I'm still using a quart of oil every 100 miles. Which means I better do it like mytmouz said.

I have a ring compressor and so why not pull the #3 piston out and see? Maybe I'll find broken rings! Then I'll be happy to replace them. If they look okay I'll put it all back. I think I better wait until I get the head off before I really decide what all to do. I didn't do a compression check, my bad.

It shouldn't be the head; I just had it done by a machinist.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:17 pm 
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sorry for the trouble. I know what you are going through since i just did a remove and replace on my head. if you are leaking 1 quart in 100 miles there should be a lot of smoke or a big oil slick on the bottom of your truck. you may be right on the bad rings on #3

sorry I don't have good advice on sizing rings. i am sure one of the other guys can help

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:17 pm 
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When you pull your piston out to check the rings, you probably could be able to persuade the shop that reworked the head to mic. it for you. Since they just did the head they probably would be glad to keep you happy. :)

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:23 pm 
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Hopefully the problem is limited to the oil ring itself. Once you have the piston out of the motor, take a good look at it for a oversize # (.010, .020 and such). Some companies will stamp an oversize on the piston.
But even with installing new rings, the bore needs to be honed to remove glazing of the cylinder. Without honing, the rings wont seat and you'll end up with compression problems. Honing will create cylinder and hone particles that need to be cleaned from the engine and especially the crankshaft. Honing and re-ringing #3 cylinder only will give you 1 fresh cylinder and 3 tired cylinders.

You could be on a bad path with all of this. With all the work you've already put in to it, you're just a engine hoist away from a total rebuild.
You have the fresh head with a questionable bottom end. I would strongly advise you to go for a rebuild.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 12:02 pm 
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I'm leaning toward all the way, and somewhat disappointed that it doesn't look like I'll be running down the road real soon. I wasn't too worried about the debris falling on the crank, as I would cover it well, but what the heck. I got educated enough in mechanics to know that it needs to be done right, so alright. I'm making the decision as I write to go all the way, and so you guys will see it here.

I'm shifting gears, so to speak, and now the methods change some. I'm going to go ahead with dismantling the engine totally and not try to leave some things together. That will make some photo ops that I wasn't going to get, and I hope you all LUV it.

Thanks Blue Meanie, mytmouz, Gs11x, BlackLuv80, 800xl, and even you Egg!

I do still need to get the head off and take a look at #3's underside, as well as the piston, so there is a slight chance...

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 7:08 pm 
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It’s really not that hard to do yourself. I did mine and no nothing about motors everything else I can do but motors well I took the plunge did the rebuild followed the book an it runs great

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 8:42 pm 
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Nothing like a good swift kick in the ass is there? I been stalling for two days, wondering about the size of rings/rod bearings to get. Plus, it's real cold outside.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 9:05 am 
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It's warming up a bit, and I should be progressing some more today. I want to clean the hood real well and set it aside, then remove the carburetor and then then the head and manifolds together. Then I can check #3 piston. I should take a ton of pictures today.

I also will remove the timing cover.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:47 am 
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I'm getting warmed up again! I put an extra tarp outside. Doofus can't see what I'm doing, and I don't have to look at him. It also keeps more of the elements away, and I like it just fine. Note the board I added to keep the light to myself!!!! The top tarp is purposely sagging to keep the rainwater drained.

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When I went to the DMV a couple days ago they said my paperwork was in order, and that all I need to do was go get the truck inspected, and they would give me the tabs and registration. They said the names do match up on the registration, and that I was fine. I don't know who to believe, but I started dismantling the engine to prep for the timing gear cover replacement. I got the carb off and boxed away. Since I was successful at removing the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold, I got the cracked manifold off. Now I'm ready to remove the head. I might do it today. Then it's going to be new territory for me; removing the timing gear cover along with the distributor. I'm really looking forward to it, and it's going to clean up a lot that I didn't get cleaned before, so it'll look a lot better. I still want to hold out before I reassemble, in order to get the paper back from Olympia.

I did some work on the hood getting it all clean inside, removing rust and adding some paint. Since I removed the hood it's much easier to reach the engine from the front. It still replaces in the latch when I'm not working on the LUV. Several other spots are getting cleaned up and painted too, around the front end. I took the chrome trim off the hood which was barely hanging on with only two plastic fasteners. I need four new ones, and might as well replace all six. I haven't found it yet, but I think I might find it in the Restoration Specialties catalog. I need four rubber bumpers that the hood shuts against. I tore one off to match it in the catalog; three were already gone. I still need the adhesive that holds the hood to the frame inside. I don't know yet what it's called. My hood is loosened from it's frame, and I want to solidify it.

I'm going to take lots of photos.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:57 pm 
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Hey FullaLuv, did I read that your exhaust manifold is cracked? Will one off of a '75 work for you? I'm pretty sure I have one at my parents place and you could have it for free if it will work for you.

And by the way, I like the tarp look. It should make identifying your house much easier if I ever get over that way. lol.

Eric Q.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:24 pm 
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Oh, I wish you'd offered that to me before...I paid a wrecking yard to ship one to me, $75.00!!!

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Could be I might need another, but I hope not. The left one is the "new" one.

When you want to head over this way, if you have a cell phone, I'll send you my number and if you send me an e-mail when we're going to meet, I'll direct you here. I'll tell you where to start the call, and it'll be a piece of cake. I also have Google Earth maps saved and ready to send to friends. Let me know if you want one.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:04 pm 
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The 75 exhaust manifold will not fit anything newer than that. 75 was the last year for the older style motor, and very few parts interchange.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:11 pm 
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That's settled.

I found that the paperwork is all good on the LUV today, and I'm going to progress. I did remove the head again today, but didn't see much obvious. The head was carboned up some though...

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I'll be taking a look at the pistons tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:14 pm 
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Good luck John in your search for oil consumption.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:24 pm 
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Where would you suggest I look?

Do you think it could've leaked all out through the rings without smoking all over? My neighbor Jeff says it's the timing chain cover, and I am going for that. I'll work up enough nerve to pull the distributor out by tomorrow, and start removing things I never removed last time.

I want to check the rings by taking the pistons out. Do you think there will be a problem replacing the same rings back in with out deglazing or honing? I don't have that equipment.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:27 pm 
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Maybe not, Can't say I have always at least ran a dingle berry hone down the cylinders.


It had to either be that or just burning it one.

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