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 Post subject: Drilled stock rotors
PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 1:41 pm 
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There was a thread recently about drilled stock rotors. I was asked to post pics of mine when I could, so here they are.

Let me start off by saying that they were drilled to the 5 x 4 & 1/2 bolt pattern. The bolt heads that are joining the hub and rotor are drilled in through the head of the bolt on the ends only and not through the shank. The new studs are threaded all the way so they are adding to the integrity of the 2 halves by bolting the two together also. And the guy who did it balanced the assembly also.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:55 pm 
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Mine are the same way. Art morrision did mine they seem to work great so far no problems as of yet. Do you like the coilovers or wish you would have stayed with the torsion bars. I have coilovers simliar to yours the sure free up some much needed space.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 3:05 pm 
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I bought the truck from a friend of mine with the coil overs already on it. I've had others in the past with the torsion bars and for racing I prefer the coilovers as the tranny access is a lot easier.

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 Post subject: Rotors
PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 7:34 pm 
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So how would I go about getting mine redrilled to 4.75. Didn't think most places would do this. How much does it cost.
About the coil overs,were do you find them and do they just go were the original shocks go and I assume they support the front of the vehicle ok without much change in front end alignment.
Also are those the hooker headers. I bought some but sent them back because it looked like too much trouble to instal them since my truck was already together. Could probably squezze a few more horses out with them if I had them on.
Thanks, Rick

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 7:47 pm 
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Ok litemup, let me try to answer your questions.

The guy who does this locally doesn't recommend drilling to the 4.75 pattern as you have to drill into the shank of a couple of the bolts that mate the two halves.

The local guy charged $65 Machine shop prices in your area may vary.

It's more involved in the coilover conversion than just bolting them in. You have to remove the torsion bars and ideally, fab a new tranny crossmember. It's not too difficult. You can get coilovers from Jeg's, Speedway, etc.

And no those aren't the hooker headers. The tubes are around twice as big on these as the hookers. The hookers aren't that bad to install and you would see some gains over even the best stock GM manifolds.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:11 pm 
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PLEASE PROVIDE A NAME AND TELEPHONE NUMBER WHERE I CAN GET THIS DONE, PLEASE. " I'M LOST IN THE TREES OF BIG SUR "

>>> MAYBE GET A SET OF ROTORS DONE AND SEND THEM TO ME.

>>> TELL ME HOW MUCH

>>> EMAIL ME IF YOU DONT WANT TO POST THE DATA HERE.

ATOOLBOXHERO@AOL.COM


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 Post subject: Torsion Bar
PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 10:37 pm 
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Since the cross member is welded to the frame. why can't I just take them out since they just go into the crossmember.. My 350 tranny is already bolted to a newly fashioned mount on the crossmember.
Thanks

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:15 pm 
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You can. The purpose of removing the factory crossmember is removal of excess weight and more room to work under the truck.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:28 am 
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I looked into this and both the local machine shops who do this state they wont do them anymore do to cracking issues with the rotors over time.
As yours are threaded thru, this may help with the safety of that modification.
:?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:45 am 
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I know that Art Morrision will not do them any more. I like the advantage of coilovers for the clearence and the weight. You can remove the torsion bar crossmember and fab another and save about 20lbs. Mine is simple tubular design. As far as the headers I had to change one tube on a set of headers for a stock 70s camero and I run angle plug heads. Keep in mind there is more room to run a powerglide over a turbo 350.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:48 am 
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And the coilover were easy. Make new trans mount and I had to make a little more clearence in the upper A arm but its pretty simple

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 Post subject: Crossmember
PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:02 am 
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I see, thanks T. Will have to start working on one for mine then.

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 Post subject: Coilover spring
PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 10:03 pm 
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What spring rate do you need with a 350/350?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 10:15 pm 
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I will check mine and let you know. You will need to go a little lighter mine is a little bouncy. I think for a precise measurement you will need to know how much weight is on each front tire.

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