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I have an 80 luv 4x4 I decided to upgrade to the 5 spd and 2.6. the donner vehicle was a running 91 isuzu truck 4x4 thought I had a machine made in heaven till I got it all out and compared to the trany in my luv machine. I noticed the 91 trany is altogether bigger then my luv trany and the clutch forks are on the other side. Is it possible to cut the bell housing casting out where it could be relocated. I can see where the template of it is on the other side almost ready pop out. Is this do-able I plan on putting the 2.6 carby on it and would like to use this tranny but I'm facing cross member relocating and shortening the driveshaft is all I know so far but I think I will have a stronger tranny this way. The only thing I not sure about is it I can convert it to the cable clutch and alter the bell housing or if I'm better off looking for the older 5 sp 4x4 tranny and case. I'm not even sure which case I have. But though I needed the MUA-5. The one I have now doesn't have any tag or info but the isuzu mark on it. I just know its bigger then the one thats in my luv and probly the wrong one. ANY ONE GOT ANY ADVICE? Thanks

I had a similar experience trying to put a 5sp in my truck many years ago. While searching for some parts to swap the clutch over to the opposite side, I found a place that imported engines and transmissions from Japan. They had the parts to swap the clutch over, but the guy talked me into just trading my transmission for one of his with everything setup the correct way. He even knew which transmissions I could use, and which ones I couldn't. So I ended up with one that was a bolt on replacement, no driveshaft modifications or anything.

I hope it will all work some way. Or I will make it work one way or the other. I just need to know if its posible to do with the parts I have or will it be economicle to loose the 91 5 spd and look for an older one. I really need to know the type tranny I have and the one that will fit the easyest or right so I know what to look for. Theres to many options in these isuzus to just look for a vehicle and take the 5 spd and transfercase. I think it has bitten me in the ass sofar.

I was wondering about my weber too as to if I can use it on the 2.6. I read in another tread that the intake off the original engine will fit. I have the original 1980 1.8. I was planning on getting a intake from a 2.3 and mounting my weber on it. But if my current intake will bolt to the 2.6 why not just leave it all together on bolt it to the 2.6. Or is there some tricks to tweak it out a little more. I want to do this all right and put this all together the best I can keeping in mind a budget too. But I want to make the most out of my complete motor and 5 spd tranny change. Thanks

this has been gone over a few times but i'll reiterate for you.

tranny wise, you can get it to fit, you'll have to modify the tranny cross member so that it will bolt to it. As for the clutch since it's a hydro setup I'd just swap over the master cylinder and pedal from your donor truck.
The tranny you have is indeed the MUA-5 (they didn't put any other manual tranny behind the 4x4's w/ the 2.6) as for the intake, you'll need the 2.3 intake to make it work. the Luv intake will bolt to the engine but the cooling passages don't line up exactly right. The weber will work with the 2.6 but I would rejet it since the 2.6 is almost a full liter bigger than the Luv motor, you'll also need to get the adapter plate for the 2.3 as the one you have now will not work on the 2.3 intake. If you have any other questions you can ask either 800XL or myself, hope that helps ya some

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'80 Luv 4x4, 3" BL, 1.5" SL, 32/36, 2.25" exhaust...and fuzzy dice.
'95 Toyota 4Runner Limited 5-Speed.

That works. You would stay with the stuff I have then or would it be simpler to get the 5 spd behind the 2.3? Which is the better tranny set up? As far as strength and durabuility. I plan on the calmini cam, decking the block or shaving the head possibly both, along with a free flowing exaust. I am wanting the a good strong dependable set up. I'm shooting for 150 hp on pump gas and hopefully I won't have to hunt down some high compresion pistons or any thing else to get this. Thanks for all the help


One more thing where do I find a distibutor set up beings I am doin away with the EFI and computor stuff. Any hot ideas

Ha OK. My son got on on my laptop and posted under my name. He is luvcrazyswaps. Guess we will both get the answers LOL.
Thanks for any info he gets since I am doing all the work LOL At least my V8 Luv is up and running hahahaha.

you'll want to use the MUA-5, as far as manual trannies go it's on par with a Toyota R150 or 151, in other words it's one of the best damn trannies avalible out there for light pickups and suvs

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'80 Luv 4x4, 3" BL, 1.5" SL, 32/36, 2.25" exhaust...and fuzzy dice.
'95 Toyota 4Runner Limited 5-Speed.

I replied to your email, but it looks like rezkid has you thinking on the right lines. The MUA is a fine trans, though an MSG-5 from an 86 Trooper might make things a little easier. Any 4x4 Isuzu trans you find will be longer and need a shorter rear drive line. The MSG you can use the front shaft off the donor, but I dunno on the MUA. The MUA is lighter to lift up, and a bit stronger to abuse. You can get terralow gears for the MUA, not for the MSG. In short, the end result is little better with the MUA, but the MSG is a bit of a shortcut. You already own the MUA, so it is kind of a cointoss.

You have most of the right recipe for the motor. You need some 2.3L motor parts for the carb'd 2.6L setup. The 2.3L carb motor will have a distributor/coil/etc that doesn't need a computer to run it, and the intake will match better than one off your G180, ports are a lot bigger. The Weber will still need an adapter, and it is different from the G180. On the cam, I think I'd skip the Calmini and go for a regrind from Delta Cams. Calmini likes to charge quite a bit for their stuff and the Delta cam would be as good. You could also pull a stock cam from a 2.3L Isuzu Impulse or any 2.6L from 93 or later. They have 6 degrees more duration that what is in the 91 motor you have. I do like the Calmini header though, even at their price.

I think that pretty much covers it. Find yourself a 2.3L carb'd donor for some motor parts, and a 76-77 LUV for some hydro clutch donor parts. The pedal and bracket, master cylinder, and fluid lines from a LUV would be easier to swap than parts from the 91, but you could also go that way if its within your abilities.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

Just a few extra things on what 800xl and rezkid have said.


The 5 speed 4x4 boxes are the same lengths be it MUA or MSG the only real difference is the bulk of the box. They both bolt into the same crossmemeber arrangement. They also both use the same rear slip yolk. Its the diff end flanges on the tailshafts that will be different. The MUA vehicles use the rear luv yolk on the front diff as thats the size diff in the front of them, the same one as in the rear of a Luv. The rear diff is bigger. I havent checked to see if the center bearing flanges are different on the rear shaft and if the slip splines on the front shaft are the same. the 5 speed front shaft is longer than the 4 speed one.

The 4 speed MSG box is the short one its the same length as the 2x4, 4 and 5 speeds.

I have a 5 speed MSG box here and i picked up on the length thing when i was wrecking a 4 speed Trooper. I got the 5 speed to put in a 4x4 Luv that i havent bought as yet and i dont know if i will buy it as im not in for the big 5 speed swap job, ive got too many other projects.

Its not easy to cable an MUA box. They dont have the provision in the bellhousing for the ball for the pull type clutch fork. Its easier to do the master and pedal than it is to change/manufacture the fork piviot.


As far as the ignition goes the 2.3 is the one. Grab the lot coil and all. Make a good note of what wires go to the coil. If you get stuck im pretty sure i saw a non efi electronic distributor on ebay to suit a 2.3L. Be careful wiring it up so you dont blow the pickup coils.
The manifold is the go for the ports, they are still a little smaller than the 2.6 and personally i would get them opened up. The manifold out of the Luv has the heater fittings is it. The bypass and return are done differently on the 2.6L motor. The 2.6/2.3 outlet is on the manifold but the return is via the tube out the side of the water pump(lower hose extention thing). The bypass is a small hose between the inlet and return on the exhaust side at the rear, on the Luv its the fitting under the manifold.
The other thing about the manifold is if you get a 2.3L donor you can also get the fuel pump that mounts up under the carb, if youve got the push rod you can use that pump. If youve got an electric pump you need to block that all off.


I wouldnt write off the factory 2.6L exhaust manifold. They are 4 into 2. The 2 into 1 bit that bolts to them can be tuned in length and size. They did that sucessfully over here on the G161Z motor in production racing. It was a factory manifold with the factory carby, an off the shelf set of performance tube headers cant enven match what they got all those years ago.
4 into 1 will never work on one of these motors as the are a torque motor and being well under square wont rev hard happily and make power. Id be chasing the stump pulling grunt over the HP figure.


You can also rob the sump and pickup off the 2.3L if its in a 2wd (or 2.3L Impulse). Gives you a bit more room to get the exhaust past if youve got the same alloy lump sided sump we got here.

If you can find a 2L (4ZC1-T) motor out of an impulse you can pinch the oil filter mounting housing off the side of the block, its got a provision for an oil take off to run an oil cooler. Its got the same sump as the 2.3L 2wd as well but its also got an oil return from the turbo.


One other thing you could do would be to put the 2.3L head on the 2.6L motor. This will bump the compression up, you dont loose out much in port and valve size if you leave the head std. I havent do this co i cant tell you the results, be sure and check that youve still got valve to pistion clearance. I doubt it would be an issue but its worth checking.


PS. i think youve got more comprehensive answers than you kin.


Cheers, Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

Thank all of you for the help. Looks like we have some work cut out. Guess he will decide what to do sowe can get started. So much for working on my little v8 truck for awhile.

I wonder, I have an extra balanced driveshat that came with my truck that had a 8 3/4 inch toyota or isuzu rear. I swapped in my s-10 rear. Could it possibly be that the driveshaft might work on my sons 5 speed trany swap since it was shortened for the 350 turbo in mine.
HMMMMMMMMMMM

this all sounds good. little copmlcated at first but i'll make it work. the end product will be an awsome machine. Thanks

this all sounds good. little complicated at first but i'll make it work. the end product will be an awsome machine. Thanks

Possible the diff end is right.

The 5 speed 4x4 box would have to be 6" or more longer.


Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

As usual, Bob has a lot more info to add to the mix. I just have a few comments to add, but I have to say he has even given me an idea here.




Quite often the hole for the pushrod for the mech fuel pump isn't even drilled on the head if its not a carb'd 2.3L head, so figure on blocking this off and running the stock electric pump. At least that has been my experience.




I've seen the 2 into 1 manifold on a 2.3L fuel injected impulse motor, but that has been it so far. The 2.6L in Troopers has a bigger outlet than the 2.3L troops, but its still one big port. You folks down under get all the fun stuff. That reminds me, I should get the crack on my imp manifold welded up... Anyway, this is exactly why the Calmini header is nice, it is a tri-y design, 4 into 2 into 1. It runs better where it counts instead of just bumping high RPM horsepower like a 4 into 1 tends to do.



If you can find a head from a 2.3L Fuel Injected Isuzu Impulse it has the larger valves and ports coupled with the smaller chamber. That would make the perfect high compression head 2.6L head swap, plus you get the long duration camshaft to boot. I had actually not thought of this before, but I never really wanted to build a high compression 2.6L.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

On the 2.6L heads ive got here the holes are open. The 2.6L (and JDM for the smaller Efi motors) manifold is different on the face between 2 & 3 runners, its flat, and the gasket seals up over the pushrod/drain back hole in the head.




Ive got my cast factory header for the Luv for one reason. It looks stock, im going for the "It looks like my Grandpas Luv but its got realy shiny rims" look. They were found on the first of the Geminis (I-mark), they have the square ports. The one on the 2.6L pickup (thats what mine came off) is the same but bigger diameter (round too) holes. The flange bolt pattern for where the 2 into one pipe bolts up is the same its just the pipe diameter thats different. The 2.6L ones were a bit crack prone, a mob here make factory replacment heavy duty castings.
No one can say i started my luv up with no exhaust, it got the 2 feet of 2 into 1 bolted to it. lol.

The single outlet cast manifolds varied a fair bit with the pipe flange diameter and the angle it mounted at too.

Ive also got a set of extractors here for a 2.6L. There are a few different mobs that make them here. I got them off eBay real cheap.

We call manufactured tube manifolds extractors.
Factory performance cast manifolds are headers.



See thats something trick that we didnt get. The 2.3L EFI Impulse. All we got was the 2L turbo as a factory offering. The splattering of G200 and twin cam Piazzas are all private imports.


Cheers, Bob.

_________________
Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

Geez,, were do you guys get all this info. You are walking encyclopedias.
You guys are great.

Have SUPER THANKSGIVING. .

Gonna try and take some pics of my v8 project and put on, Don't laugh at it, Let me know how toget them up, hopefully I can figure it out.

I know about the extractors, that is what we call headers up hear. Pretty much anything cast we refer to as an exhaust manifold. I had not heard the translation of cast performance manifold meaning header before. I'll keep that in mind in reading your posts and replying. It helps when we all are speaking the same language, eh? I am taking "mob" to mean some group of people or company, have I got that one right? Around here a mob is angry horde of people, or a reference to organized crime.

The 2.3L EFI Impulse came to us in 88 and 89 only, it was the non-turbo option. Sounds like the two outlet manifold (header) I have is basically what you get on 2.6L motors. The EFI 2.3L head on the Impulse has ports the size of a 2.6L motor, so it makes sense it is the same part. Mine is cracked on the #4 runner, so that fits too. It does look like it flows very nicely, which is why it is not on the scrap iron pile already.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

Yeah mob would refer to any small-medium business thats family run. Theres usualy a short guy thats gruff and red in the face trying to run the show. A unruly quasy terrorist if you like.

An exhaust manifold is just that. The extractor/header thing could be a down under thing.
In the early sixties they released the 6cyl HD model Holden with an X2 engine option. That was twin down draught Strombergs with 2 seperate 3cyl headers.

I wouldnt be too fussed about a cracked cast exhaust manifold. The turbo impulse ones are renowned for it. If its not leaking heaps its not an issue. If you get it welded when it heats and cools etc, either from the welding or just daily use, the metaurgy goes up the creek and it will probably crack again. If it hasnt opened up very far it will just fill up with carbon.


Cheers, Bob.

_________________
Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.