No Man I Don't Mind, Actually I Request It! If You See A Flaw Or Have A Question Then Bring It To My Attention So I Can Either Fix It or Explain It, Whatever Need Be.
Far As The Patent I Have Truly Tried On It, No Such Luck So Far, Because They Claim It Would Have To Be A Fixed Unit. In Other Wards The Ball Joint Would Have To Be Made To The Plate, And I Don't Want To Do That Because That Would Mean Replacing The Plat On Down The Road When The Ball Needs Replacing.
I Have Contacted Hooker They Said There Not Interested That They Don't Hardly Deal With Cassie/Suspension Components. How Ever Trans-Dapt and Competition Engineering Both Showed A Slight Interest In The Plates. That Doesn't Mean Much As Far As Buying A Design, But Its Hope.
Well...
My Major Goal In This Mock-Up Build Is To See If Everything Will Work.
Well I Currently Don't See A Reason In Why It Shouldn't. I Wanted To Get The S10 Spindles Mounted That Way I COULD Get Better Brakes. You Can Find After Market Breaks For S10's, Monte Carlo's, And Camaro's.
I Plan On Swapping To A Set Of After Market Calipers, Drilled And Slotted Rotors, Drop Spindles, And Steal Breaded Brake Lines. In Other Words This Is Just A Mock Up To Work Out The Bugs Before I Started Improving.
I Will Also Be Using 4X4 S10 Drilled And Slotted Front Rotors On The Back With Either A Set Of S10 Front Calipers On The Rear or I Will Use A Set Of Trans Am Rear Disc Brake Calipers, For The Sake Of Having A Parking Brake!
Which Should Be Better Braking Then Factory LUV Brakes, And There Not Alot Out There, That I've Found, After Market Brake Kits For "Higher Performance" Chevy LUV Pickem' Up Trucks. In Other Words I Want To Make Sure This Truck Will Stop Before I Ever Make It Go. Make Since? I Feel That Brakes Are Often Over Looked When Someone Drops A Big Hopped Up Engine In A Factory Based Car.
Far As Geometry, It All Stays The Same. The Hight Of The Spindle Is Taller With A S10 BUT When You Drop It Below The Control Arm,Roughly 2 1/2 - 3 ", It Is Almost Perfectly The Same As Factory.
If I Hadn't Already Cut The Torsion Bars I Would Show You How It Looks In Action. I Will Eventually Get To This. On A Later Date I Will Post More Pics Of The Suspension Being Under Stress, Released From Stress, Turning, and With The Tie Rod Ends All In Action. Heck I Could Even Possibly Film It Maybe Going Down The Road w/o A Front Clip.
As Far The Tie Rod Ends I Forgot To Take Pics Of Them They Completely Slipped My Mind. But They Work Perfect As Well. The Only Reason I Swapped To A S10 Tie Rod End Is The Factory LUV Rod Ends Are None Adjustable And The Arm That The S10 Spindle Has To Connect To Em Are At A Different Angle Then Factory. So I Used A S10 Tie Rod End For The Added Adjustabllitie. After A Slight Amount Of Clearance Work Is Done To The Inside Of The Control Arm, Mainly On The Back Side, Rang Of Motion Is Just Like It Was Meant To Be. You Can Turn The Wheel From One Bump Stop Screw To The Other.
Right Now My Main Priority Is Getting More Done w/ The Frame As Far As Four-Link and Core Support/Radiator Cradle. But Before I Do That I Am Going To Pressure Wash And Wire Brush The Frame and Under-Carriage. I Think I Will Start A Finish Cleaning Up The Frame Rails Where I Removed The Factory Engine Mounts. So A Lot Of Work Still A Head. I Will Try My Best To Keep All Of Yall Posted.
Anymore Questions Or Spotted Potential Problems Please Let Me Know.
Time To Cut N Grind!
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Some nice beefy discs and 4 piston calipers would be the bomb.
check and you will find that the 78 up chevy monte carlos and there clones are the same spindles as the S10 and that opens up a lot for up grades that your wallet can handle.As for steering geometry it should be checked but it looks close enough to work.You could use the rack that i did and mount it to work.
