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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 1:34 am 
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gonna be puttin a new head on the luv, so i need to know what the torque specs are for the headbolts and cam bolt and stuff like that. basically i just need the specs for the stuff that deals with puttin another head on.

mkay, im gonna add to this post about the other question i have.

what is suppoesed to the right way to get the cam timing correct on this thing. i was told to set the motor at TDC, the cam in the head at where it would be at TDC, and put it together.

will that work? it seems basically right, right? i know abou the tensioner release and stuff like that, but will that get the cam timing right?

also, are #1 cylinder valves both closed on TDC?

if i could get a little help with this it would awsome!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:02 am 
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Not Sure Really

But I Think It's Like 25 ft lbs On The Cams

Head I Can't Remember But I Have a Book Somewhere I'll Have To Round It Up

As Far As The Timing That Sounds Right, But Again I'm Not Sure

Sorry I Normally Deal With Demestics You Norm Don't Run Into OHC With Them, Least Not Real Often

I'll Get Back With You When I round Up That Haynes Manual I Have

Sorry Couldn't Really Be Of Help As Of Now Though

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:14 pm 
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Here's what I found in my Haynes manual..........


Head bolts-
Initial 61 ft lbs
Final 72 ft lbs

Camshaft sprocket bolt-
58 ft lbs seems kinda high but thats what the manual says.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:17 pm 
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Dan wrote:
Here's what I found in my Haynes manual..........


Head bolts-
Initial 61 ft lbs
Final 72 ft lbs

Camshaft sprocket bolt-
58 ft lbs seems kinda high but thats what the manual says.


sweet action man!! im gettin a head gasket, intake gaskets, valve cover gasket, and exhaust gaskets on thursday, so i hope to have it runnin by friday.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:21 pm 
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Good luck... now just throw a step side on it and you guys will be stylin :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:23 pm 
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ctmandu wrote:
Good luck... now just throw a step side on it and you guys will be stylin :lol: :lol:


lee is sellin his stepside. i dont know what he wants for it, but i like the fleetside anyways.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:27 pm 
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my 13 year old wants a luv now so I guess this summer its on to a step side luv hunt.... luckily i know of a few around, now just need to talk them out of one ..... Good luck on the luv not a bad deal, we all like free

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Last edited by ctmandu on Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:30 pm 
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ctmandu wrote:
my 13 year old want a luv now so i guess this somer it on to a step side luv hunt.... luckly i know of a few around now just need to talk them out of one ..... good luck on the luv not a bad deal , we all like free


thanks a bunch!! i have some big plans for both of the trucks now. the luv might end up with a hybrid g200/180 motor in it, and the pup might end up with a g180/200 motor in it.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:39 pm 
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There should be a mark on the cam gear to set it to TDC. If you are off 1 tooth it will run like shit. When I tear down a motor I always set it to TDC and look for all of the timing marks before I pull the chain.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 12:05 am 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
There should be a mark on the cam gear to set it to TDC. If you are off 1 tooth it will run like shit. When I tear down a motor I always set it to TDC and look for all of the timing marks before I pull the chain.


ill have to remeber that. im gonna have a budy bring his haynes by the house when he comes back on friday.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:33 am 
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There is a mark on the cam right behind the timing gear that lines straight up at TDC as well as the mark on the gear. The pin that indexes the cam gear is in line with it too. If the chain was put on the crank wrong you can't count on the marks on the chain to match anything. The haynes manual explains it, though it is confusing. Line up the crank pulley to 0 degrees, the disti pointing to #4, and the line on cam straight up or straight down (I forget which, #4 valves both closed).

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:38 am 
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800xl wrote:
There is a mark on the cam right behind the timing gear that lines straight up at TDC as well as the mark on the gear. The pin that indexes the cam gear is in line with it too. If the chain was put on the crank wrong you can't count on the marks on the chain to match anything. The haynes manual explains it, though it is confusing. Line up the crank pulley to 0 degrees, the disti pointing to #4, and the line on cam straight up or straight down (I forget which, #4 valves both closed).


well you totally confused me now. im gonna have to find a hayne manual now.

am i going to have to take the timing cover off? id rather not have to do that.

i are so cornfused... :crazyeyes:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:10 am 
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It is really confusing. Basically what I am saying is the only mark I'd trust on that motor of yours is the timing mark on the crank pulley. Stick that at the 0 degrees mark. Then line up the disti and cam to match. The books all explain it using #4 TDC instead of #1, so be on the look out for that in the Haynes. It doesn't matter which you use, as long as you match up everything.

The only real worry you have is that the oil pump/disti drive gear is on the crank correctly. But if you line up the crank to 0 degrees and your disti rotor is pointed roughly at #1 or #4 then that is correct or close enough. The only reason to pull the timing cover would be if that gear is way off and you can't just twist the disti to take care of it.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:17 am 
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Actually, take a look at this thread, my post in there even seems to make some sense.

http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?t=11064

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:18 am 
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mkay i think i understand now.

all i did to the motor was pull the head. i tried to keep the timing chain as taught as i could during the whole ordeal.

i might have one problem though. i have the distributor cap off, and the plug wires are kinda goofy. basically all i need to do is have the rotor point at one certain contact on the cap and then i could make that #1, right?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:30 am 
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Farmer Joe wrote:
all i did to the motor was pull the head. i tried to keep the timing chain as taught as i could during the whole ordeal.


Its not what you have done that I'm thinking of, it is what the person before you may have done wrong. Assume nothing is right and you'll probably be better off.

Farmer Joe wrote:
i might have one problem though. i have the distributor cap off, and the plug wires are kinda goofy. basically all i need to do is have the rotor point at one certain contact on the cap and then i could make that #1, right?


Pretty much right. Put the crank at the 0 degree mark, look at the cam to see which of #1 or #4 has both valves closed, pick the closest contact on the cap to the rotor and that will be #1 or #4 (the one with both valves totally closed) This is after you've got the cam timing right though.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:47 am 
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mkay. i think im gonna be able to pull this off. i wrote down all the important stuff i need to remeber.

now i just need to get paid already!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:16 am 
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Be sure when the rotor points to #1 or #4 that the corresponding cylinder is at TDC by removing the plugs and having a friend rotate the crank by hand while you hold your finger over the plug hole. If the air pressure is pushing on your finger, you have the right stroke. The camshaft has a mark, and the #1 rocker arm shaft bracket has a mark. These must be lined up. I took a photo of mine when I did this a couple weeks ago....

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The rocker arm shaft bracket nuts should be tightened to 16 ft./lbs. The torque wrench settings are listed on page 41 of the #319 Haynes Chevy Luv manual.

Be very sure to follow the proper tightening sequence as shown on page 48, Fig. 1.53., from the center-out when tightening the head bolts. Be sure the threads are clean by running a tap in and out the holes, and wire-brushing the bolts. I used brake cleaner to clean the bolts, and compressed air to blow out the holes. I lubed the bolt threads with ARP® assembly lubricant to minimize drag, and accurately measure torque.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 1:04 pm 
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That picture is worth 100 posts. That is the mark I have been talking about. The dot on the positioning disc/washer on the camshaft and the line on the rocker shaft holder right behind it.

You don't need to use the finger in the plug hole trick if you use the timing mark on the crank pulley. When it is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the timing cover, #1 and #4 are at TDC. Then just look at the cam to tell which cylinder is at firing position, whichever has both valves closed.

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86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:51 pm 
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You just made my day!!! High praise from a highly regarded member!!!

I thank you 800.

I will say there were some photo ops that slipped by with greasy hands and mechanical concentration. Some things were done before I remembered the digital.

I should have said the finger check was done with the valve cover installed. Yes, it would be much easier to actually see the cam lobes.

By the way, I took mine out around the block after finally finishing the floor liner and reinstalling the seats and it really is running perfect.

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