LUVTruck.com

Hello all,

I'm new here and just wanted to say that I really like the site so far. I'm in the process of setting up a '72'. It's been in the family since it was new and I want to keep it for the forseeable future. There seems to be a wealth of knowledge here and I would like the insight of those that have "traveled this road" already. I would like for my little truck to be a bit of a "sleeper" when it's complete, but I also want to make sure I do the work properly and not just slap it together.

My plans are pretty typical I would imagine. I have a 72 and I'm planning on dropping in a SB Chevy with a TH350 tranny. I've given some thought to going with a 700R4 but don't know what other mods need to take place to do this. I'm basically going to be doing a frame off so immediate drivability isn't much of an issue. I've also gotten my hands on a Dana 44 w/discs out of a 98 Grand Cherokee. I'm not worried about the gear ratio as I can take care of that. My concern is the width. How much would I need to narrow the axle to make it work properly for my application. Right now its about 6 inches wider from plate to plate than my stock axle...is this typical? I've been told that the S-10 axle is pretty close to the same as the cherokee in the width department.

I really liked the thread about the disc brake setup from Aerospace Components and I will likely be going with one of their setups. I wouldn't mind keeping a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern if things with the rear axle work out.

I'm sure I'll have more questions as my build progresses, and as I get to know some of you I will likely post pics of my project and keep you all posted on the progress. Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

Welcome to the site. We like pics here. Can't wait to see what you have. In the family since new is awesome. It has that sentimental value that way.
I don't have a V8 LUV, so I won't be helping much, but if you would like an overdrive trans. check this guy out.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

Good luck.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

From my understanding a TH700R is just a TH350 with a 4th gear and converter lock.

Would be good to compare size/bulk having the two side by side and then make the call. That extra cog will let you go with a lower diff ratio and still get reasonable economy.


Cheers, Bob

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

The 700R4 and the TH350 mounting and length are the same its the cable hookups are different and need to be addressed but still not a problem.TCI build a trans kit that is perfect for street strip and they have the other parts ,servos.throttle valves,and valve body kits.I would put the 700R4 in as you would happier with the gears in the trans, 3.06 first and .76 overdrive, compared to the 2.52 and 1to1, useabout a 3.50-3.70 gear in rear,you can use gears like 4.11s but the tires have a hard time trying to stay stuck to the asphalt

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Thanks for the info thus far fellas. It sounds like I was on the right track with the tranny choice, I'll start looking for a 700R4. My biggest concern is with cutting into my truck, I would like to keep that to an absolute minimum. If the 700R4 is the same size as the TH350 then I'll be good to go, and with an extra gear to boot. I'm looking to go with 3.07 gears in the rear as they're very easy to obtain and they're great on the highway as far as fuel consumption goes, and I'm not building dragster. I have my eye on a B&M Megashifter, as they look good and function reletively well. Hopefully that won't add to much frustration when it comes to hooking it all up.

Now that I've gotten some reassurance on the tranny, I would like to focus on the rear end. Does anyone have any suggestions in regards to my previous post about my Dana 44? I mean hey, if the independant version is good enough for a Vette, the straight axle should do quite nicely in my truck. I am curious however as to the proper width needed for my rear axle. I haven't taken the bed off the truck in a while as to size up the stock axle and its possible replacement, I was just wondering if anyone else had tried this setup.

Thanks again for the advice and helpful pointers. Expect to be hearing from me quite a bit as things get going.

As long as you are planning on using radial tires the 700 will be fine. If you are going to try and make the truck hook up with some sticky tires the 700 WILL break sooner of later. They are not made to be tuff. But with radial tires TJ was right it will spin all day long. I narrowed a 9" and it wasnt that hard. You will need to consider what backspacing wheels you are going to use also are you going to narrow the frame?

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

I have no intentions at this point of narrowing the frame, in fact like I mentioned earlier...the fewer major mods the better. I know from experience in other avenues of vehicle recreating that the Dana 44 is a really good axle, since I have one I would like to use it if at all possible. As for back spacing, I would imagine that I could probably compensate for a bit of axle width by going with a deeper backspace, but approximately 3 inches per side is a lot to make up. As time allows I will likely get the bed off and get a good look at what I have to work with, I'd like to think that it will just bolt up after welding on the new perches and shock mounts. I suppose what I'm really asking is two-fold. One how wide can an axle be and still fit properly and two, do I need to measure from axle plate (brake plate) or from the face of the axleshaft? Thanks for the help so far however. If you aren't learnin', you aren't living.

RPOZ11 said the 700R4's in Astro Vans are a little different in the bell housing area for some reason, and they are easier to install in a LUV because of it. I don't remember exactly what but you could p.m. him about it.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

Copy that Ron, thanks. Basically I'm trying to debunk a lot of rumors and speculation as to what I can and can't do with my truck, within reason of course. As it's been in my family since day one, I'd like it to not have too much "engineering" in it if I you know what I mean. I'm still waiting for a bit of assistance on the rear axle...any pointers anyone?

Opinions on rear ends on this site differ allot and cause some long threads about who is right and who is wrong. We all know a diff out of a S-10 bolts right in. Several people here including me run a ford 9 inch. It is really up to you on what type you want to run.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

The Astro van trans is probably a little smaller in the bell housing due to a slightly smaller converter to clear the floor. I am not sure of this but i do know that there are three different converter sizes due to engine size. But if you use the astro trans just make sure you build it up to V8 specs. I believe that with careful choices of parts that a 700R4 will last just as long as a TH350 in a LUV as they are far lighter than the pickups that ran them and there was a lot of them,but thats my opinion as i can rebuild tranys myself.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

The Astro Van 700R4 case is the same throughout in all of the mechanical aspects, including the convertor bell-housing shape-its not smaller, they are all the same size.
The difference on the Astro Van 700R4 is that the "DOG-EARS" on the sides, where one would bolt up the inspection cover, is not casted in by GM, thus eliminating obstruction of the exhaust pipe routing.
These cases will allow for more room to run your exhaust by the transmission in tight applications.
Mine has a K on the case.

Building up a 700R4 needs several upgrades internally to handle to the torque demand being put thru one of these when we hop up V8.
DO note that they will break if you plan on racing them "HARD".

Hope this is useful.
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72 L.U.V.
427 SBC-700R4
SE 9-3/8 4P TracLoc, 6-lug rear discs,
custom rear leafs, custom made aluminum radiator,
Mustang II front suspension
LUV perf parts manufacturing
My Devotion to Karl :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmXc4F78 ... re=related

Any sawsall will fix that problem. I did it on a 700,350, and now a powerglide. Its not much but it does help in a tight situation.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

Rascal, sounds like the s-10 deal would be good for you. If it bolts right up that would be an afternoon project. Then you dont have to worry about all the math with narrowing a rear end like axle width,flange width, frame width, and back spacing. Just bolt up the s-10 rear end and measure for your wheels and you will be set.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

Cutting the ears off the trans i thought was the norm as about half the time they interfere with the headers when you need to pull the trans. As for the rear i would use the S10 as it is cheaper,easier, and as long as your not going to use slicks any way it will last the life time of the truck.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Sorry it took me a little while to get back to all of you. I was sicker than a dog over the weekend. Thank you for the information thus far.

I suppose I should mention the intentions I've got for my truck, as this might help with the influx of advise. I don't have any desires to take it to the track. I'm building this truck to be a reliable daily driver with a bit of an attitude. The engine I've picked out is a 300hp 4-bolt 350, I'm not looking to go with any more power than that. As far as the tranny goes, I'm leaning toward a TH350 as there seems to be less controversy and headache with that setup.

I guess the reason I kept asking about the Dana 44 rear end, is that I already have one in my possesion and would rather not have to get another axle. However, if measurements prove that my axle is too wide, and I know narrowing it down won't be very cheap, I'll definitely look into an S-10 rear end as they're exceedingly easy to come by. On that note, I've heard that the 4x4 S-10's had a stronger axle under them. Is there any truth to that or are they pretty much the same with the exception of the different gear ratio's?

Thanks again for all your help up to now, have a good one all!

Hope I didnt scare you away from the 700, for a daily driver they are great. They have become the norm for the streetrod industry. They are not for the track unless you have them built with the right internals. If I was going to make a daily driver with gas prices as they are, that over-drive would be nice .

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

Okay luvit80, i'll give you a chance to plead your case...LoL! What kinds of modifications need to be made to make the 700R4 work in the place of the TH350? Also, will it fit in my tranny well without having to cut up my truck's floor?

I'm not worried about what kind of driveshaft I need, I can get those made locally or by Tom Wood at a very reasonable price so length of tranny is pretty much a no issue. I would like to offer my appreciation for your help and pointers up to this point as you've given me a lot to consider...thanks.

I'm going to be checking out the local "U-Pull-It" junkyards in a week or two and taking some measurements on rear axles. As I mentioned I already have a Dana 44 out of a Jeep Grand Cherokee complete with disc brakes sitting in my garage, if possible I would really like to use it. However, for ease of installation and use, I will be checking out the S-10's rear set up to see how everything measures up. Thanks again all.

hello if you can find a 75 or so year modle mail jeep (dj5) they have dana 44 rears some with possie traction and they are a inch shorter on each side than the stock axle just change the spring pirches and that is it.I have one in my luv and i put a spool in mine and used the stock dana axles (31spline) and they work perfectley

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''''Bottles are for babies''''
77 luv all original with working factory a/c
50,000 original miles

74 chevy luv 1/8th mile
bracket racer

99 chevy silverado supercharged 425hp daily driver.

None really the 700 was the redesign of the 350 so it had the extra gear.


They used the 700R in our Commodore (full sized passenger sedan 1600-1700kgs worth) down here from 89 on. It was behind either the 3.8L Buick derrived V6 (bellhousing pattern of its own) and the local made 304ci holden V8 (Chev pattern bellhousing). In the performance model they ran to 185Kw as a std production car with the same box as the stocker.

They switched to the electronic controlled box in 94 and these had dramas but it wasnt from power.

Behind both motors the boxes eventually wore out, they are getting old now. Back in the new days there was a factory recall to retro fit a seperate trans cooler to every car sold with the optional factory towbar. Im not a fan of radiator integrated trans coolers and i always fit a seperate one to any auto vehicle i have.


If they are a readily available box ( ive we had them here i couldnt see why they wouldnt have been put behind several million V8's in the US)why not fit in a good used one and see how it goes. If it gives up the ghost, fit another or get it recoed. Your other option is to fit a TH350 then.

Ive got pics here of my truck sans tub i will post them up shortly and put a link up in here.

With the std diff there is not much backspace allowed for with its with. Im lucky ive got a diff here out of an Isuzu van thats 4" wider uses the same center, brakes, etc as the std diff. Not much use to you V8 guys but it will do me fine for now.



Cheers. Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.