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 Post subject: Rear End Calculator
PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 4:52 pm 
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Found this and know there are some people who could use it.


http://www.larks.net/9inchrecalc/rearendwidth.asp


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 7:07 pm 
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That's pretty cool! But if you're taking it to a specific company that narrows rear ends, it's best to measure it out the way they what to see it.
Currie, Strange and Moser has drawings that give reference points to measure from. And also finding pinion angle.

That link would be great to keep track of exsisting axle measurements for your own records.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 8:05 pm 
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Blue Meanie: In the end after you giving me all that help a few days ago I am going with a GM 7.5 Posi 28 Spline 3 Series 10 bolt Eaton Locker and see how that fairs. I appreciate the help regardless.

Image

Tonight- Thought I could get lucky and put the engine in carefully without having to cut the radiator support. Unsuccessful. I am going to try and run a serpentine belt setup off a vortec and the stupid harmonic balancer/crank pulley are a beasts and sticks out too far.

Tomorrow the sawsall comes out.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 8:44 pm 
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As long as you got a solid gameplan for a strong assy, it's all good.

I'd think twice about cutting the forward frame section. Weakening the frame could ruin the truck and possibly be catastrophic if it the structure failed. I haven't seen any LUVs with a serpentine belt system. Moving the motor back into the firewall would get you the room but that's alot of work. You can kiss the heater goodbye.
Ask someone who's installed a blower on their sb chevy. They run a blower belt so they know what it takes.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 8:47 pm 
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Blue Meanie wrote:
As long as you got a solid gameplan for a strong assy, it's all good.

I'd think twice about cutting the forward frame section. Weakening the frame could ruin the truck and possibly be catastrophic if it the structure failed. I haven't seen any LUVs with a serpentine belt system. Moving the motor back into the firewall would get you the room but that's alot of work. You can kiss the heater goodbye.
Ask someone who's installed a blower on their sb chevy. They run a blower belt so they know what it takes.


Not frame.. upper radiator support I ment. Cutting frame is foolish.

I live in AZ. Who needs a heater? I have a window I can roll down and get heat.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 1:59 pm 
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I have a serpentine setup on mine looks sweet but was a bitch to get right. Had to have a 90 put on the radiator and some other little things it is very tight. After I finally got it right it was worth it but I threatned to go back to v-belts several times and the serpentine was not cheap.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 2:45 pm 
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let's see pictures.


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 Post subject: Re: Rear End Calculator
PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 9:47 pm 
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Hyperwrx wrote:
Found this and know there are some people who could use it.


http://www.larks.net/9inchrecalc/rearendwidth.asp


I added this link to our main links section.

http://www.luvtruck.com/links.php


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 3:25 pm 
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Hyperwrx,


I am going to the shop tomorrow and i will get some pics.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 5:17 pm 
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luvit80 wrote:
Hyperwrx,


I am going to the shop tomorrow and i will get some pics.


Thanks. I am trying to work in my belt system without destroying the firewall. Curious to see what you have.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 9:25 pm 
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I have stock firewall, but the truck already had small block motor mounts so i dont have the info on them. I do know that if I would have built them they would have been different. I will get the pics its tight and took some time to get right. You have the right idea i think the tensioner is better. (mine has no tensioner and I have to tighten the f**k out of the belt not to squeal but i do have alot of motor and have hit 8k on the tach) Maybe you will have better luck I will get the part numbers if you want some is March and the alternator braket is Zoops and the belt is for some jap car the pics will tell


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 9:52 pm 
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luvit80 wrote:
I have stock firewall, but the truck already had small block motor mounts so i dont have the info on them. I do know that if I would have built them they would have been different. I will get the pics its tight and took some time to get right. You have the right idea i think the tensioner is better. (mine has no tensioner and I have to tighten the f**k out of the belt not to squeal but i do have alot of motor and have hit 8k on the tach) Maybe you will have better luck I will get the part numbers if you want some is March and the alternator braket is Zoops and the belt is for some jap car the pics will tell


thanks appreciate it


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 10:30 pm 
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Will the tensioner clear the hood? I've seen S-10s that needed mods done to the reinforcement underside.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 11:28 pm 
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Blue Meanie wrote:
Will the tensioner clear the hood? I've seen S-10s that needed mods done to the reinforcement underside.


Actually on my serpentine setup the tensioner is situated on the side, not on the top. On mine, the alternator is jutting up quite high but I don't think it will be higher than the air cleaner.

What makes the engine serpentine setup very bulky is the harmonic balance and crank pulley that stick out. They need to stick out pretty far to line up to the other pulleys. Even with a short water pump, it's still going to be a chore.

Dropping in the engine with everything attached straight down into the engine bay I think I was only about 1" from making it (without cutting any of the radiator top brace) slip right in.

If Luvit80 has the hookup on brackets that bring the alternator and associated pulleys closer to the motor I can get a thinner harnomic balancer and think crank pulley (If Needed).

You can see I put on the Hooker frame/motor mounts to see how they fit with the Camero motor mounts.

Here's a picture for reference.

Image


Last edited by Hyperwrx on Mon Sep 04, 2006 6:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 11:42 pm 
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I can see now how you would stand a better fit with your serpentine system. An O.E.M. Chevy serpentine system has more stuff above the engine. And the alternator sits a bit higher towards the drivers side of the engine.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 5:23 pm 
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new at this how do I post pics?[/img]


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 6:11 pm 
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luvit80 wrote:
new at this how do I post pics?[/img]


PM sent.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 7:12 pm 
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Here we go Hyperwrx

Image
Image
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 7:17 pm 
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What kind of clearance is there at the lower pulley?

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 7:18 pm 
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it is really hard to see it was pouring when I too the pics
and I did have to notch the front crossmember a little and reinforce but it was very miniumal and I can also remove the distribitor with ease


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