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So, got the newly rebuilt 350 motor put in and it won't start . Timing appears to be right and it's getting fire, just won't turn over - any ideas (and it's getting fuel to the carb)? This particular luv project has really been an adventure. This is the third luv project and by far the most problematic one we've done.

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1980 shortbed Luv - 350 40 over, etc. - Like I told my momma, it ain't no fun growing up!

I can't help you Martha, but I'm having the same issue with mine. We've both got fuel, fire, and air. Mine cranks, but it just won't catch. hmmmm

yours is probably just points

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1980 shortbed Luv - 350 40 over, etc. - Like I told my momma, it ain't no fun growing up!

Start with the basics... Bring the motor up to line up the timing mark. Then remove the dist cap and see if the rotor is pointing at either #1 or #6 plug wire. If it's pointing to any other plug wire, you'll need to re-stab the distributor. Verify this first before you do anything else.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Yeap, we did that too - twice in fact - that's why I don't think it's the timing but we're going to do it again tonight when I get off work.

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1980 shortbed Luv - 350 40 over, etc. - Like I told my momma, it ain't no fun growing up!

Once you're certian that the timing is right, run a direct wire from the battery to the distributor. This is only for testing purposes. And make sure that the wire lead connects at the BATT+ terminal, not the tach terminal.
This eliminates any of the stock wiring assuming the ignition is wired thru the original coil wiring.
If the motor starts, you'll need to pull the wire from the battery to kill the engine because the ignition switch isn't tied in.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Are you wiring the dist. counter clock wise???

I screwed that up once. I put all the wires on to fire clock wise. Big back fires... no start.

On a SBC counter clock wise is correct.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

Has to be timing

Pull number one plug and stick a screw driver in the spark plug boot and hold it close to ground. Crank it over and you should hear a "chug" every time you see a spark. If you have checked all of that and it is a new engine look at the cam timing and rocker arm adjustment.

Mjboyd do you mean the engine wont turn over thats a hole different story!

Well, I've been hit by the I'll rip you off bug AGAIN. Guess, since I'm a woman, I'll have to start hiring a man to deal with my motor issues and stay behind the scenes. The guy who redid my motor DIDN"T check the valve clearance and the intake valves hit the stop of the brand new pistons and bent the valves and left a nice hoof mark in my pistons - that's why I had no compression and it wouldn't start. Went into the shop this AM to tell the guy and ask him what he could do to make it right and he basically said it was ALL MY FAULT and he wasn't going to do anything. Sounds, just like the guy I bought the new motor from originally.

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1980 shortbed Luv - 350 40 over, etc. - Like I told my momma, it ain't no fun growing up!

You've heard the phrase: "If you want it done right, you've got to do it yourself". So go into the motor and fix what's wrong.
It's unfortunate that you're in this situation but the surest way to get this right is if you get in there and get it right.
If you can read a manual and ask a question, you can re-assemble a motor.
Tearing the motor down can expose the initial problem. Whether it's because the timing chain and gears were off mark, too long push rods, 1.6 to 1 valve rockers or high dome pistons. Or a combination of any of the above conditions.
Go in to the motor. Once you get an idea of how things fit and work, you'll see that it's not that big a deal. Just about any gearhead you know will volunteer their time to the cause.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

If he timed the cam wrong and you did not touch or change it, and he won't fix it, You have a case for small claims court.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

The problem was that the heads have been shaved and HE, on his own, decided to switch connecting rods from 5.7 to 6" rods without first checking clearance and waiting until after the fact to tell me (and yes, he knew the heads were shaved). When I pressed him on why didn't he check clearance, he said he checked it and was concerned because it was zero but just never said anything. Anyway, I'm over it. The motor just keeps getting better and better as a friend of mine has a set of unshaved double hump heads with new valves and the whole nine yards so I've bought those from him to put on the motor and I don't have to worry about rebuilding my heads and fly cuttin' the pistons.

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1980 shortbed Luv - 350 40 over, etc. - Like I told my momma, it ain't no fun growing up!

You might want to post the name and address of the engine builder. He sounds like a hack. And he doesn't need any more business.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

No problem there:

Ken Hood Machine Shop in Austell, GA - avoid him like the plague!!

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1980 shortbed Luv - 350 40 over, etc. - Like I told my momma, it ain't no fun growing up!

MJ be sure to check the cam timing as milling the heads and O deck hight should not let the valves hit even with a 600. lift cam. And your machinist can't grab his ass with a hand full of fish hooks if he gave you this problem and wouldn't make it right. Good luck and hope you git it whipped soon we need more people like you who tells it like it is.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Cam timing is ok - we got the double hump heads last night and are replacing the springs tonight as they came off a new drag motor that never got put in a car and the springs are for a huge cam - to big for mine. Once that's done, we'll sit 'em on the motor and check the valve clearance and hopefully be on our way to getting the thing back on the road. If there's still not enough valve clearance, we'll just have to pull the motor and have the pistons fly cut for proper clearance but I'm hoping I don't have to do that.

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1980 shortbed Luv - 350 40 over, etc. - Like I told my momma, it ain't no fun growing up!