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 Post subject: vacuum from scratch
PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 6:40 pm 
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alright so i've done a bit of work to this poor truck and lost most of my vacuum lines. even if i had them i pulled off all my egr stuff. so my question is. what all needs vacuum. i know the big one goes to my brake booster. but i've got three lines comming out of the intake behind the carb and i've got two coming out of the base of the carb. and one on the vacuum advance. so wich ones go where.
my thought was i'd put one of the three to the dist. and the other two to the carb.
any idea's?

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:43 pm 
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Start with the intake, one goes to the air bypass valve, second goes to the valve cover, third goes to the air cleaner. The carb, one goes to the thermal vacuum valve then from there to the egr valve, second I think goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 11:23 pm 
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well thanks for your help, but... i'm pretty sure i don't have an air bypass anymore. i pulled all my egr stuff off. and i don't have a factory air cleaner either.
so i think from what you're saying one from the manifold goes to the valve cover. the other two get plugged. and one from the carb goes to the distributor. and the other gets plugged.
right?

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:24 am 
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As you are looking down on the intake manifold, there are three little ports below the base of the carb. You can take about a three inch piece of vacuum line, and connect the left and middle. That will effectively seal them off. Hook the riight one up to the valve cover port. It has a a very tiny orifice, maybe .3mm, so it barely sucks on the valve cover.

Then, you have two on the front of the carb. Yep, one gets plugged, and one goes to the distributor. I don't know which one, though. They mights sense the same level of vacuum....I just don't know.

I tried to fit a carb like yours to my truck, but it didn't work out. (It was a different series). There was an extra wire and solenoid, and I just couldn't get it to work.

I dind't know if I was fighting a carb issue, or a hook up issue, so I took off the carb and egr stuff, and got a weber.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 9:32 am 
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thanks alot that's exactly what i needed.
it's funny though. i'm pretty sure this isn't the factory carb. mainly because i have an extra wire too. mine works fine. the extra wire on mine is on the truck side of the wireing though. on the carb i've got a black and a blue coming from one of the solenoids and just a black coming from the other. on the truck side i've got two blues wires, a black and i think a red one.
i don't know for sure, but it's hooked up and working electronically so i'm not gonna touch it. although i used to have a problem with deiseling.
maybe somebody knows what the extra wire is for. but not me :wink:

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 11:55 am 
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The wiring on the carb changed slightly through the years, could be you have a carb from an older motor on there. The dieseling problem might actually be related, one of the wired bits on the carb is a fuel cut off solenoid, aka anti-dieseling valve.

As I recall, most of them have a ground wire, and then at least one wire to each of the choke, anti-diesel valve, and coasting richer valve. Carbs from an automatic truck do not have the coasting richer valve. Some where in the different years I recall some having another ground wire going directly to one of the valves.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:37 pm 
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man 800xl you are a true guru! i think my extra wire is for a choke since i don't have one. mines cable. the colors don't exactly match up so i'm not posotive there in the right places. any way to test wich wire is for what?

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 12:00 am 
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ok so two quick questions. do i need this thing.one line goes to the oil pan and the other disapears probly towards the gas tank.Image
and is it ok to plug the hole here on my carb since the outlet broke off or is this the one that should go to my vac advance?Image

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:25 am 
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I have ripped all the hoses out of the truck and am trying to put back the bare minimum as well.
Do I really need all three lines from the fuel tank to run up front with a Weber setup?
Do I really need that black plastic evaporative container in the bed area?
Do I need to connect that hose to the oilpan? Can the oilpan connection be plugged?

With my Oppenheimer intake, I removed the orificed hose connection from my old intake and managed to put it inline for the valve cover. I know I need vacuum advance. I never figured out why the Weber had two vacuum connections on it - one with vacuum all the time, and one with vacuum once the carb is opened a little.

-DK


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 1:16 pm 
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My Weber is a later model 32/36 DGV, with only one vacuum port, so I'm afraid I have no answer on that one.

As to the other stuff, the various lines, I found a post somewhere on this site that talked about it. As I recall, almost all of the lines become inactive when the stock carb and emissions are removed.

I haven't gotten to the "remove all the other crap" stage yet, so I don't know what, if any, problems might occur once I just start taking stuff off.

I worked thru a Spitfire/Weber conversion a few years back. It was a 79 as well, and it didn't have any thing coming from the oil pan like the Luv. Seems to me it could all be taken off.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 4:24 pm 
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i know for sure the one going to the pan can be plugged. i got a core engine from a 82 pup that just had a plug over it that looked factory.

_________________
1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 4:26 pm 
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ok she runs good accept. really rich. i think my "coasting richer valve" is to blame. i think it's stuck on richer. how do i test it and do i even need it hooked up? and when should it open and close

_________________
1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:55 pm 
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The coasting richer valve is controlled by three switches. One in the trans that is on in 3rd/4th gear, one on the gas pedal that is on when the pedal is all the way up, and one on the clutch that is on when the pedal isn't pressed. All three have to be hooked up and on for the valve to be open, unless of course it is stuck open on the carb.

You can unhook all the switches and hook the wires to them back on themselves and the valve should open. Hook up all but one of them like that and when you hook up the third it should bump the rpms just a bit.

It really doesn't dump much gas into the carb so I kind of doubt it would be enough to be your problem. What has you thinking it is running rich anyhow?

_________________
95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:17 pm 
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it's blackening plugs. black smoke. that kind of stuff. exhaust smells funny.
and i can't seem to find any screw on this thing that changes anything. i mean the screws with the springs on them don't change anything and i thought those were supposed to be jets.

_________________
1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 7:11 pm 
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Maybe they have been over-tightened and the needles have been broken off....

-DK


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 7:16 pm 
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no i pulled them out the needles look fine

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it :(
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...


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