LUVTruck.com

You wont believe it l have a 1987 LUV and it has the very same 5 speed gear box as the TROOPER the high & low shifter is further back aswell but rember this truck is original. l all so have another 2 4x4 that just have the 4 speed box fitted.

Thanks for the pics...

That'll help me cut out my floorboard...

I've been so busy that I havn't made any progress lately, but I've decided the bed is coming off. Luckily the contents of the bed were sold at a garage sale...

-DK

Those may help a little, especially on the E-brake bracket.

I've got the underside all cleaned up and the E-brake components disassembled as much as possible. I decided to work over the rear axle bearings before cutting the frame...

I've got new bearings, new wheel cylinders, new shoes and turned the drums. Turned into about a 2 day job running around to parts stores and machine shops. Nobody wanted to touch the bearings and I couldn't work the main nut loose (190 ft-lbs). I'm trying to figure out how to shim it right now.

I'm just about ready to take some pictures before I start.

I found a clutch kit for just under $90, had the flywheel turned and the oil pan jetwashed. New shocks are also on the shelf ready to go on.

-DK

ok now that you 4x4 guys have figured out how to make the 5-speed work how about us 2 wheel guys get a shot. ok my firts thought after reading all them post was HOLY SH!T but i think i can do it. some "Q"s ok
1. i want to know im order to get the tranny out and the new one in does the motor have to come out?

2. would a pup have a 5-spd or what truck should i look for that is 4x2 becasue i have found out that the 4x4 5-speed will not work on a 2 wheel drive application.

3. now what years would i be lookin for to snag a 5-speed from and will most of the 5-spds be around 4-5 inches longer than our 4-spds.

i plan on trying to do this alnog with new head and gasket, puting in the trooper rear end with disks and trying to make my luv have a floor mounted e-brake. well i know there is alot of shit that i will need help with so i will keep you all posted on my progress. any help and sugestions would be awsome.
thanks
kevin

I'm slow!

I've got the shocks on and have been stalling on cleaning the engine compartment and getting it painted. The oilpan is painted though.

I took some Trooper wheels and mounted one of my LUV tires on it just to find that the hub offset is too different to use (the tire rubbed the spring).

I do know that the 4x2's don't have to pull the engine to get the tranny off. My first LUV was a '76 4x2.

-DK

The first 3 links don't work. The last one does. When I attempt to open the first three it says:

The page cannot be found
The page you are looking for might have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.

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1980 Chevrolet LUV stock 1.8L longbed
1980 Chevrolet LUV parts truck shortbed
1983 Suzuki Gs550 Sportsman
1989 Nissan King cab P/u <totalled> 4/1/06
1986 Full size Chevy P/U
1993 Volvo 850 GTL

Well, the post is almost 2 years old.

_________________
Click on C.M. logo to go to my webpage


RIP R.J.B.

lLook at the link that works, then look at the ones that don't. Remove the last part. They all work then.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

I'm FINALLY ready to do the actual transmission mount fabrication. The motor has the clutch installed and the frame is ready. I've got the cab removed to make painting the frame a bit easier.

My project pics show the frame sanded down to metal from the front to just behind where the cab normally sits.

I'll get some pictures of the transmissions side-by-side, the Trooper cross-member I'm planning to use as well as fitment pictures as I fabricate the crossmember mounts (I don't want to have to pull the cab or split the transfer case to change the clutch in the future).

I'll try to get measurements for the shift levers. I know the 4x4 lever is way further back, and I think the main shifter is slightly further back.

BTW, I've got another 86 trooper 5spd 4x4 tranny laying around if someone wants to pull it from my parts Trooper. I only want $85 for it.

-DK

I hope that DKAY puts a pic of the two trannys to compare the lengths,
but I thought I could help out with some pics and info.

Heres the measurments on the shifter holes. Between the stock hole
and new hole for 4WD shifter is 3 1/4 inches.
The new hole is 2 1/2 inches long and 2 1/2 wide.

Here is a image of what left after you cut most of the crossmember that supports the stock trannny:


Here's the braket welded to the frame by on of the cab perches:
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/Zanegogh/Frame.jpg
[/img]

Here's a pic of the Top view of new mount for E-brake cable:
[img]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/ ... acketA.jpg
[/img]

Here's a side view of the braket for the E-brake cable:

Okay, I compared a few measurements between the stock 4spd and the Trooper 5spd. Again, these are for 4x4 only. All measurements are inches.

Bell Housing to front of main shift tower
Old 16 3/8
New 16 3/8

Bell Housing to center of 4x4 lever in 2H
Old 18 5/8
New 24

Trans Centerline to center of 4x4 lever in 2H
Old 4 1/2
New 4 1/4

And the most important - Bell Housing to tail shaft
Old 29 3/8
New 34 1/2

I've got to shave 5 1/8 off my drive shaft. I'm going to take both my LUV and Trooper axles in to see which one the shop prefers to shorten...

Check out the site I just built:
http://mysite.verizon.net/res77h4n/luvtruck/id1.html

Here are some pictures:

Top view of Trooper Tranny


Top view of LUV Tranny


Side view of both Tranny's


I got part of my frame primered.


Isn't this the prettiest axle you've ever seen?

Hope everyone enjoys the measurements...
Also remember, I have an extra 5spd in my possession right NOW! I'm located in the Portland, OR area.

Hey Kuranosuke...Here's another shot of that engine you sold me...


-DK

Thought I'd revist this post. I actually don't think I saw Dkay's pictures he posted on here. Really cool.

Basicly on my Luv, its motor is tired and the trooper 5 speed has some worn synchros and a bearing going out in 5th gear. However my daily driver overheated this week, and blew the head gasket. We think it might have warped the head. So Instead of pouring a ton of money into my communter (which blue book is only 1600), I convinced my dad, that my Luv would be realiable after a rebuild of tranny and engine. We are going to price around the mechanics I know.
There is acutally a mechanic in Sacrmento, who calls himself DKay (well it might be DK). So my dailey commuter dying was a blessing in diguise.

_________________
1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

I've been making a little progress here and there....

The frame is painted, the front suspension is reassembled, I took the Trooper crossmember, created some mount-points on the LUV frame and bolted it in. I ended up installing the crossmember too low, so I fabricated a new raised mount in the middle of it and the engine and tranny are now mounted in the frame. I took some more measurements and decided the rear driveshaft needed 6.5 inches removed so it has room to work back and forth in the slip-yoke.


I ordered a Shurlube 8000-643-236 diaphragm pump for $77 last Friday and spent $17 at Home Depot getting fittings and hose. I'm planning to prime the oil system on the G200 as soon as the pump arrives. If I was going to install it as a permanent pre-lube system or oil-change system, I probably would have used copper tubing to make it look nice and use true hydraulic lines to allow for engine movement, but since I'm not planning to run hot oil through the tubing, I'm using 3/8" soda fountain hose which is rated to 200psi. The pump won't produce anywhere close to that much pressure.

The pump has special materials that make it oil (and I think fuel) proof. It will create about 35psi.

The plan is to put an oil catch bucket under the oilpan with the plug off, put 4 quarts of oil in it and pump it in through the oil pressure sending unit hookup. If all goes well, I should get oil throughout the engine, the bearings, back through the pump, etc. I'll probably hand-turn the motor a few revolutions with the oil pressure up to work some of the assembly lube free and get real oil in place.

If anyone else is rebuilding a G180 or G200 and wants a pre-lube kit, I'll probably sell this setup for about $100 when I'm done.

-DK

PS I'm not the mechanic in CA.

Dkay, make sure to post pictures on differnt stages of your project.

What is the purpose of a pre-lub kit? Does it just make sure the oil goes through all the passages, so there no metal on metal?

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

Yes, a pre-lube kit runs oil through the engine without having to turn it over.

Here are some pictures:

The Trooper crossmember and a couple front driveshafts:


Engine is in, but front end is not reassembled yet:


Driver's side crossmember mount:


These mounts put the crossmember at least an inch lower than they should, but they are easy to work with and install the bolts. I wish I had taken more measurements before removing the stock transmission.

Passenger's side crossmember mount:


Where the tailshaft ends up:


Rear view of tailshaft:


Where the transfer case ends up:


I've made progress in the recent weeks. Here you can see the suspension is reassembled and the truck is on the floor (finally!):


Here's a good shot of the Trooper crossmember installed:


Here's a look at the modification I needed in order to make up the drop on the mounts:


Here are the parts I have to put back in still:



Hope everyone enjoys this.

-DK

Looks great, keep the updates coming.

As you can tell, I'm working on the truck today...

Here are pictures of my new EBrake pivot:

There's JUST enough room for the speedo cable to fit behind the angle iron used to suspend the guide. If you are doing this project yourself, notice the guide and pivot are the original ones I cut off the original crossmember.
There's still enough adjustment left in the original hardware to compensate for the little farther back it now resides.

Another angle:


I've taken it out so you can see it better. I still need to paint it. If you look close, you can see the small reinforcement on the driver's side to keep the vertical plate from flexing:


Here's a good shot of the guide. I reinforced it a bit:


-DK

Well, the drivelines finally came back and they're a perfect fit with 6.5" removed from the back and 2.5" added to the front. I don't know if I'll have Portland Six States do my driveline work again though since they didn't even come close to their time estimates and the first time I got the rear driveline, it had about two tablespoons of metal debris inside of it and they had to rework it.

Has anyone else noticed that the U-joint on the transfer case end of the front driveline is gold plated on the inside?

I've moved the cab clean off the frame now and am working over the front clip and maybe the underside before I reinstall it.

-DK

IT'S ALIVE!

I got the running gear all together yesterday. I was only minus the throttle cable.

I disconnected the starter solenoid wire and primed the fuel system by turning the key to start. I set the distributor to where I thought it needed to go. I turned the key. First for five seconds, pause a couple and then for five more. It partially fired. I turned the key one more time and it started and ran with no adjustments.

I forgot that I needed to plug the G200 manual fuel pump hole and the smog pump mounting bracket bolt holes so I ended up with a lot of oil all over which I quickly cleaned up. I ran to the parts store and picked up a fuel pump block off plate and found some spare bolts laying around the garage. I'm having trouble getting the fuel pump block off plate to seal. I think the bolt holes may be connected to the oil galley so I'm going to RTV it today.

When I tried to adjust the timing, the engine kept dying on me. When my friend came over I got the opportunity to keep it running and check things out. It ended up that the ignition wire on the side of the distributor was shorting to the distributor casing and causing the timing to be all funny, especially when I turned the distributor to where it needed to be. Once I installed a "new" ignition harness that had a good connector on the end, the engine ran smooth and I was able to set the timing right on. I'm ready to make the series 10 ignition swapover now.

I'm so glad I found the timing issue...The engine sounded just horrible before that! I was questioning Kuransuke's engine rebuilding skills due to all the knocking sounds. The shorted ignition wire was randomly firing the spark plugs and was typically 30°+ BTDC.

Kuranosuke -- It runs great! I can't wait to get it out on the road in the coming weeks.

-DK