LUVTruck.com

well no matter which mark i line up on the cam i can't get it working right and now i bent a valve. am i the biggest idiot to ever work on a luv?
can someone take a picture of the timing marks for me or something cus mine has a bunch of different marks on it. it's got circles and arrows and indentations and lines so i'm as confused as i can get.
maybe i'll take some pictures of mine or something so you guys can see what i'm talking about. any help would be awsome.

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...

It's the thin little lines that matter. And, as you found out, the LUV truck is an INTERFERENCE ENGINE. Which means the valves open far enough that a piston can come up and whack them if they are out of sync with the crank.

You need to set the engine 90 degrees off TDC (carefully) and adjust the cam first. This way all pistons are at half-travel.

When the cam is in the correct position, the first cylinder will have absolutely no pressure on the rockers and the exhaust valve is the next one to open. The thin mark on the cam will need to be perfectly straight up. The timing chain tensioner will need to be engaged for all of this.

Oh, I learned the hard way, don't use the alignment pin to pry(rotate) the cam or you will bust it out. Always put the gear back on and turn it that way.

If it is off by one tooth, it will be difficult or impossible to start.

You need to get the engine at TDC (first cylinder all the way up and the timing mark on 0 degrees).

Check it twice, because often you can't tell the difference between this position and the position exactly one more revolution away when cylinder 4 is ready to fire. Then the engine will be 180 degrees out of sync with the distributor and the #2/#3 cylinders will fire in a strange order.

At this position, the distributor will be in line with the #1 spark plug wire.

It works best if you connect a timing light and set the timing to 6 degrees BTDC before you try to start it.


Hope this helps. It's all from memory since the last time I changed a head (3 years ago).

-DK

that's gonna help alot thanks.

i had an idea because i tried that mark and it wasn't right either. because i'm lining my engine up by putting #1 on the compression stroke and then linging up the mark on my pully, could my pully be on backwords? is the notch on the pully supposed to face the engine or the radiator?

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1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...

The mark is on the camshaft, not the pully.

-DK

right but to line up the crank at tdc on #1 i use the pully and timing marks on the crank pully. could the pully be on backwords?

_________________
1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...

I don't think you could put it on backwards. The mark is a little cut in the outer edge of the pulley on the eng. side, so it when it comes around it is right there close to the TDC "scale".

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

i think that's been my problem i pulled it off to clean and paint it and i put it back on with the notch facing the radiator. wow i'm a moron! but hey now i know as soon as i get that bent vavle replaced and the head back on i can get it alligned right this time. that puts it about 15-20 degrees off on the crank. wow i'm suprised it ran so well thanks alot to everyone who's posted. i'll let you know at the end of the week how it went. it should be done by then. i hope

_________________
1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...

Sorry, I was speed reading and mistook what you were saying.

I've had the crank pulley off before and it is keyed so it only goes on one way.

What can get off by 180 degrees is the distributor. It is driven off the oil pump which is driven off the crank. The oil pump has an offset notch so the distributor will only fit one way. So, you can swap all wires straight across from each other on the distributor cap to check for that condition.

The crank driven oil pump also leads to problems on first-start of a rebuilt G180 or G200 since you cannot prime it like a 350 with a power drill.

-DK

i'm not talking about the piece that holds the pully, but the actually pully on the end. being only flat mettal it could be that the wrong face of it is facing out wich puts the little notch on the pully facing toward the radiator and not facing the timing marks. and since the mark is not centered with the alignment key on the crank if you put it on wrong it would be off however many degrees it's supposed to be off, but in the wrong direction. but anyways i've gotta worry about that bent valve now

_________________
1980 luv 1.8 finally running!!!...... and then like a moron i sold it
got another one!!! 1980 mikado. v8 swap here we come... nope divorce and cross country move happened.
got another one!!! 1980 4x4 mikado sport. rusty beater for now...