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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 12:54 am 
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okay, me and TR came up with an idea today about making an AWD luv race truck. now how much power can a stock 79 luv tranny and transfer case take?? im wanting to build a stock block turboed g200 thatll take about 15-20lbs of boost.

now since the luvs have 410s front and back is there gonna be any problems running it in 4WH on the track to make it basically AWD? i would be runnin all the same wheels and tires all the way around as to get better traction, and i would also weld the front and the back diffs to make it a true all wheels drive vehicle. is there going to be any binding issues with the transfer case if i drive it in 4WH on the track? correct me if im wrong, but 4WH is when the transfer case isnt splitting the range right?

so in essence this might work, right?

can i get some 4x4 luv guys to help me out on some info?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 1:21 am 
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Maybe you should define "track". I would say loose dirt track would be fine unless maybe you are going for endurance racing, but a pavement oval would not. Straight line down a dragstrip it would be the same as running a spool, so that shouldn't be too bad.

The trans and tcase should handle a fair bit of power, at least for a while of track only running. I'd be much more worried about breaking stuff in the front, especially if you can get it to launch hard enough to get a bounce or two on the front end. Starting with my opinion of the most likely to explode: CVs, half shafts, front driveline/ujoints, hubs, and the front carrier or gears. If something went, especially on one side or the other, the sudden loss of traction would likely put you in the wall or the other lane, not to mention it could take out steering on one or both sides.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 1:41 am 
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well this would be for the drag strip only. and maybe a little street drivin in 2wd.

im a little worried about breakin stuff too, but i think since ill only be running an 8.6in clucth ill really have to be gentle off the line if im gonna wanna save it in any possible way.

now i have another question. when i weld the front diff up, when i unlock the hubs wont the front tires freewheel independantly? like when they hubs arent locked theres no mechanical connection to the wheels and tire to the front diff. so that the only way that both front will be locked is if i have both hubs locked, right?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 2:55 am 
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Farmer Joe wrote:
im a little worried about breakin stuff too,
Say it aint so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :P


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:12 am 
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yeah if you unlock the hubs the wheels are effectively seperated from the diff. I have heard of people saying these transfercases dont like being run in no-slip situations though. I dont know why this would be i just seem to remeber hearing that its a bad idea to run a gear driven transfer case on pavement in 4.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:26 am 
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even a new trailblazer can't take driving more than 20ft in 4h, tried it at work, didn't bind any going in rev., but i drove at least 15-20ft in 4h to my PDI spot and right before i stopped the front started creeping down till it almost bottomed out, put it in 2h and it sprung back up w/o a prob., i haven't looked at a trailblazer's t-case so i don't know if it's chain gear or whatever, but more than likely it is, tahoes and silverados are.

I wouldn't see the problem of running a 4wd/awd pup on the drag strip, however, i would try not to do burnouts, barking tires, etc... so that they are all the same. Since you said you'd still be driving it around in 2wd, i would not weld the back diff, so your not bouncing around corners when moving it around... what about a limited slip diff in the back? or front? or both?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 10:06 am 
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AWD and 4WD are two different things. Would you take a Mitsubishi 300 GT VR4 in the mud or a Montero? Do your research, they are different.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 7:28 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
AWD and 4WD are two different things. Would you take a Mitsubishi 300 GT VR4 in the mud or a Montero? Do your research, they are different.


okay? well check out http://www.turbotruck.net
its a fullsize siverado 4x4. he runs low tens with it in 4wd. i dont see where the problem is goin to be. if the front and the rear diffs have the same ratio there shouldnt be any binding. ill prolly just have to find someone with a 4x4 luv and see if it binds.

now as for the breaking of parts, i dont think it will be that big a problem. i really dont think that i will be enough power to get all the tires to break loose. i really dont see there bein any problems. if if it breaks, ill just get more parts.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:05 pm 
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shit.. your truck sounds like it is about to fall apart shifting right now. i can only imagine it with '4 wheel drive' and boosted...


:cry:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 1:17 am 
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AWD vs 4WD, the difference only matters going around corners and would not mean anything on the strip.

As for breaking stuff and just replacing it, if a shaft blew up or a CV bell exploded you might find yourself going anything but straight. If not from the sudden lack of propulsion on one side, then it could be from the lack of steering when the loose end flails off something important in the guidance department. I'd break something spinning in the mud and not worry too much, but if something came unglued in the front axle assembly doing 80-90MPH it could easily be very serious.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 2:45 am 
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well i dont see me breakin an axle doin speed. i would inderstand a CV breakin off the line, but i dont think that shifting from 2 to3 or 3 to 4 is gonna shock the drivetrain that hard. im prolly only goin to be runnin a NAPA clutch, so id see slipping before stuff broke.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 7:50 pm 
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well mostly out of curiostiy i drove my truck in 4hi today. I started out just in the parking lot and when that felt fine i took it down the road. There was no binding untill i pulled back into my parking spot. I had it up to 40mph everything engaged(hubs t-case) on dry pavement and even threw her through a few twisties and did what not. I would try it at slower speeds first, but it didnt seem like it would hurt anything in my truck today...

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 1:10 am 
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As far as the lockers goes, if you have the money replace your rear diff. with one of those newer limited slip to locker at the flip of a switch since you are going to be on the street from time to time. with a full time locker in the rear you will easily slide around corners at low speeds because your tires are forced to spin at the same speed instead of one running slower. I have also seen lockers in the front of a jeep CJ that still allows you to turn since you have to steer the front wheels. i will just pop and sound like a bad cv shaft. im sure that could be adapted to the rear if one isnt already made.
i hope this helps and i dont seem like a complete idiot...lol!
Matt

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