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ok I found out the cam was off by a couple teeth and so I lined everything up like the book said tried to fire it back up and it would not start...... so I moved the wires from 1 to 4 and 2 to 3 and so on and it fired right up. so here is my ?....... the book said to line up tds which I did adjust valves the rotate crank 1 complete turn which I did but its backwards so I figure for every turn of the crank the cam moves 1/2 turn so am I off on the cam by 180 degrees? And how do I know if im on the compression stroke for number 1 and not the exhaust stroke

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My old but now gone Luv...

WOW man I feel bad for ya I hate when a little prob turns into a bigun !!! unfortunately i dont know anything about that stuff!!

First you have to make sure your crank and cam are in time with each other like you said you did as per the book. This has to be right on first!


tdc #1, the valves in the #1 would be closed. You can check this buy looking at the valve springs with the valve cover off. If you on on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve would be opened at tdc.

And yes the crank makes 2 rotations for the cam to make 1 rotation.
When adj. valves you would start w/ #1 . I think because its a 4 cylinder, each tdc would be at 1/2 turn of the crank.
You adj. the valves for the cylinders at their own tdc. #1 tdc for #1valves, #2tdc for #2 valves #3 tdc for the #3 valves and #4 tdc for #4 valves. But you do this in the firing order not 1234.


I hope I helped and not totally confused you. Good luck.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

so i am right . all i need to do is take of the gear on the cam rotate crank one full turn and put the cam gear back on and i should be right on? right, basicaly im 180 out on the cam

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My old but now gone Luv...

I edited my post. Go back and read it.

I'm not sure if you are 180 off. There should be marks on the cam and crank (like a little dot) that need to be in line with each other.. I'll go look in my book and at my new eng. I just got back from the shop and haven't installed yet. Be right back.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

The book says put the crank so the keyway in it is at the top with the #1 and #4 pitons are at tdc.

The chain has 2 links in it that are called marking plates. They are 2 links that look different from all the others. One link will go at the bottom of the crank, in line with the slit in the crank. The other marking plate will be at about 11 o clock up at the cam gear. That plate needs to line up with the little dot on the cam gear. If not , rotate the cam and get them lined up.

The pic in the book shows the chain guides in place while doing this. I'm sure with out them in place it could throw you off a link or two.

That should have your crank and cam in time.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?

thanks i'm going to my uncles and try it now will let you know thanks again

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My old but now gone Luv...

ok i whent threw the books again and some how i missed the part where it said to do the timing chane to #4 cylender and do evrything else to #1 tdc so thats why i was off. so it runs alot better now but i think the stock carb i put on is not that great , the air mix screw does nothing, it idels fast(if i adjust to take it down a bit it dies and all vacume lines are good no leak) and dies when i stop. so ill take the good stock carb i have from pinkskys truck for now and swich it out for the trip untill i can get the twin carbs on

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My old but now gone Luv...

Sounds like you've got all the info you need, but I thought I'd add a little bit. The crank is in the same place at #1 or #4 TDC, it doesn't know the difference. But, the drive gear for the distributor that runs off the crank turns once every two turns of the crank, so it cares. The books all show a way to tell by looking down the hole for the dizzy and looking at which way the offset slot in the gear is facing. I don't remember which way it is, but you can always just leave the dizzy in and look at which wire it is pointing to.

Oh yeah, if you have to do have to spin things around you need to watch where the valves are. At any given time there is at least one valve down a bit and you don't want a piston to come up and get it. I find it easier to just pull the rockers off, then you can turn either one or just flip the cam and gear. Either that or back off the adjusters all the way, but even then the rocker arms alone hold a couple valves part way open.


On that stock carb, try pulling the mixture screw all the way out, careful not to lose the spring. Spray in the hole in the carb with some carb cleaner, maybe poke around in there with a fine piece of wire. Could be just some junk blocking the valve. You can close the valve all the way off and it will still run if you turn up the idle screw a bit.

ill try that, thanks

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My old but now gone Luv...

ok cleaning didnt work so i changed carbs but this one i cant get to idle down it just wants to race any ideas?

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My old but now gone Luv...

ok spent 45 min on the carb, wife comes home and said oh your cable was to tight dumb me sure enough after i when threw choke adjusting screws vacuum and everything boy don't i feal dumb............ but now the timing mark is good them is gone then there again so my next ? is what causes this like i have said im not an engine guy, thanks guys

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My old but now gone Luv...

its alive and well all is good and iam so happy, took it out for a test drive and the power is back, cant wait till the twins are on

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My old but now gone Luv...

Glad to hear it. Enjoy!

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?