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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 9:16 pm 
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lives at LUVTruck.com
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:12 pm
Posts: 314
Location: HWY 39 - California
Hey everybody,

I already did a search and this is what I have come up with.

So I will be running a SBC with quite a bit of power, a muncie M22, and a Ford 9" with 3.73 gears, I am going to tub the truck and run slicks, not every day but I will do it on weekends and such.

I want to do what I can with the stock-ish suspension, so ladder bars and slapper bars seem like a good idea. I don't know what people think of floater setups around here, but I wanted everybody's imput on it before I bought.

So I am thinking of buying some generic stuff and making it work, but what has every body else bought ? Comp engineering ladder bars for the S-10 ?

Thanks,
Austin


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 Post subject: slapper/ladder bar
PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 9:21 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Joined: Sat Aug 03, 2002 6:53 pm
Posts: 502
Location: Baytown ,Tx
Im using a set of home built slapper ladder bars on my luv.Should be able to let you know how it works in a couple of months almost finished with my truck!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 9:38 pm 
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Addicted to LUV

Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 9:41 pm
Posts: 6289
Location: Camarillo, CA
I got a ladder bar kit that came with the crossmember that the ladder bars bolt to as well as the brackets that weld to the 9 inch. After I tried to reuse the stock frame rails, I found I didn't have the travel I needed so I bought a frame rail kit. I was able to get a set of 31X18.50 tires on 15X15 rims under the bed.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:37 pm 
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lives at LUVTruck.com
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:12 pm
Posts: 314
Location: HWY 39 - California
Luvrv8: Do you know where you got the kit ?

Austin


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:54 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:45 am
Posts: 42
Location: Auburn Wa.
I used a ladder bar kit and floaters from Art Morrison on mine and run 31-18.5 on it. The only change i made was i had some steel plate machined and welded in the slide part of the slider to have more surface area for long periods of street driving and it seems to work great. 8O


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:22 am 
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Addicted to LUV

Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2005 9:41 pm
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Location: Camarillo, CA
I used a company called auto weld, http://www.autoweldchassis.com . I liked the fact they had allot of info on their site about setting up the pick up points. Also, since I plan on allot of street driving, I ordered the bushings in stead of the heim joints on all pick up points.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:42 am
Posts: 1125
Location: San Diego, California
depemds on what ur budget is. if you're on a low budget then lakewood slapper bars. run a rubber snubber in them on the street and put a bolt in them for the strip. better yet, if you have the cash, buy some Cal Tracs or Slide a Links. these types of traction bars are the BEST bolt on traction device for a leaf spring car.

Ladder bar/floater hit hard at the drag strip but they running them on the street... its a little noisy and not so streetable compared to the Cal Trac.

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears


Last edited by LUVSADRAG on Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:59 pm 
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lives at LUVTruck.com
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:12 pm
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Location: HWY 39 - California
Seems like I am going to go with the lakewood slappers, what kit do I buy ?

Austin


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:42 am
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Location: San Diego, California
I run the Universals but you can also make your own. the Lakewoods work good but they could be better. not a bad deal for $40 or whatever they get for them these days but they could stand to be a little longer IMO.

you can go to your local metal supply (or you might find the right stuff at Lowes or Home Depot) Its been years since i've made a set but I believe i made them out of both 1x2 and 2x2 square tube years ago. and it was .120" gauge. (somebody thats made some recently correct me if I'm wrong). weld it to the bottom of your leaf spring U bolt Plate (some grinding may be required) I prefer to make them long enough so the snubber hits the bottom of the front leaf spring eye. I put 3/4 to 1" clearance between the snubber and the leaf eye which i can adjust by loosening the snubber jam nut and raising or lowering (or shim it with washers). I used the bump stop from a front end kit as a snubber but a long time ago we used to use a Poly eurothane skateboard wheel. lol. at the drags you would take snubber out and put a bolt in.

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears


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