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I need to pull my motor to change out my flex plate. I was wondering if the motor can be removed without unbolting the headers at the collectors?
Normally, i would pull both the engine and trans together but with the new exhausts system, i cant remove the driveshaft. I found that out when i disconnected the driveshaft to tow the truck back to Texas.
The starter will get a new bendix to go with the new flexplate so i'll need to work with that somehow around the headers.
If anyone has some insight with just pulling the motor, i'd like to hear from you.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Can't you unbolt the trans and slide it back a hair to get the flex plate out?
I may have even done a flex plate swap out by just unbolting and sliding the converter back... its been a while.

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears

I doubt that i could get enough room to fit a socket and torque wrench. Plus, i dont think the old flex plate will drop down between the torsion bars.
My initial problem with the exhaust keeping me from removing the driveshaft pretty much keeps the trans in place.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

As for the exhaust, the headers are just too tight and need to be rotated as the motor is lifted. I've had my motor out about 12 times (back when I was eating 700R4's for lunch) and I looked for any and every way to save time.

The starter is no problem if you take off the one header pipe that goes around the frame/starter.

I'm wondering though, why do you need to take off the driveshaft? I usually leave my driveshaft on when I pull mine. When you pull the motor forward, the yoke will slip out of the trans.

Getting it restabbed is the problem. The help i'll have with this repair is what has me worried. My Dad is a 75 year old bulldog! With me under the truck and Dad working the hoist and positioning the motor, it isn't the safest situation. There's no fineese with Dad. He'll shove and jam things around so the thought of damaging parts and my fingers is too great.
I was looking to pull the engine alone without the trans. That way, the only thing to worry about was the floorjack holding up the trans.
It looks like a motor/trans removal job for me.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Try pulling the spark plugs,dist.(clearance),dip stick tube and tie the headers back from the motor you might just get enough room to pull the motor. GOOD LUCK

I see...

Well, I'm not saying it's impossible but...

To separate the motor and trans in the truck, I think the hard part is going to be the two upper bolts on the bellhousing. You might be able to get your hand in there with a rachet wrench though. Like one of those Gearwrenches? And then maybe tie back the headers like TJ said? Sounds possible.

I just thought of the fact that i cant remove the torque converter cover with the headers still in place. I wont be able to get to the TC bolts.

If you all dont hear from me for a while, it's because my fingers are all smashed up and i wont be able to type.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I will say on this topic, is that me and Dennis just put in a 305 into his truck, and he is running the hooker headers, and they were a total BITCH to get on while we were puttin the motor in. So I would have to say, unbolt the headers then pull the motor. MY .02

i love my block huggers its easy with those headers to take out the motor

Since yall are on the topic about the headers, i was wondering what is easier to work with. I have a set of block huggers but and was thinking about going ahead and buying the hookers because the way you have to get the exhaust to hook up. The headers i have come down right on top of that cross member for the suspension and i would only have about 2 or 3 inches to try and get a exhaust on there. Also it would have go around the starter some how. How did yall do it?

I don't see how that was productive advice?

Well your right, runnin the block huggers do cause the exhaust to go under the starter, and I personnaly went through the trouble of replacing my starter the other day, and I tell ya what, it was a total bitch cuz you have to unhook the exhaust at the header, unhook the pipe on that side, knock off the muffler and slide the pipe back soome to get the starter out. And you almopst don't have enough room to do that What should of taken maybe 1 hr tops, took me about 3 and a half

The motor & trans are back in the frame! Getting the driveshaft back into the trans was a whole lot easier than i expected. And yes, the headers were a bitch. I had the starter shimmed up correctly and ready to go but i ended up pulling the starter to get the header in place. Getting the starter back in wasn't very fun. I even removed the motor mount from the block to slide the header forward alittle to fit the starter.
Next time i'll go this route:
1. leave the starter off and remove the motor mount.
2. Set the motor in place and set the headers in at the same time.
3. With the motor basicly in place, slide the header forward as much as possible to make room to install the starter.
4. Then slide the header aft to make room to install the motor mount.
5. Line up the mounts and stab the bolts.
But the motor/trans are set, the starter is in, the headers are in place and ready to bolt up. The engine hoist is in loaded up and ready to go back to the rental place.
And i still have all of my fingers!!!!

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Nice! Glad it went OK.

Unfortunately this situation is a double edged sword. You can get better at it with practice, but that means your in a situation that is warranting pulling your motor often. In other words, your screwed either way.

If I had my pick, I would rather be really lame at pulling my motor and trans rather than really efficient.

I know what you're talking about. Back in the 70's, i owned a 69 Impala SS. I retro-fitted the motor and trans from my ruined Camaro. The Impala had a tall ratio axle and it didn't work well with the 4 speed Muncie. 1st gear could tach out to 55 mph and it ate clutches. The first time i did a clutch job took me over 3 hrs. By the time i got rid of the Impala, i had down to 45 min. I kept a chunk of broom stick in the trunk. That was my alignment tool.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

LOL!

Exactly what I'm talking about.

Well it's back together and on the road again. The starter works like a dream! It took 4 shim pieces on the outboard bolt to get it to fit the flexplate correctly. When i crank the engine, i can barely hear the starter.
I hate those damn AutoZone starters that are made in Mexico. Thats one reason why the flexplate wore out to start with. I got a TCI flexplate on it so it should last forever.
But at least now it's all correct and i shouldn't need to worry about it any more.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Here's a pic of a flexplate that didn't have a correctly shimmed starter. Here's y'alls chance to learn from my mistake.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I always thought that whole shimming BS was BS. LOL! Not sorry to see it go on the newer models.