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 Post subject: Lowering luv (pic)
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 9:09 pm 
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lives at LUVTruck.com
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Location: Yakima, WA
Ok, I've read about lowering the front end with the torsion bars, now I have a picture that one of you is going to circle with paint or explain to me what to tinker with to drop the front end.
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The only bolt I see that is adjustable is that one on the left going up and down, is that it? I haven't messed with it because I don't see how that is going to turn the torsion bar very much, however that is the only one I see....
Thanks for the help :D


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 9:29 pm 
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LUVTruck.com Lifer
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Yep thats the one.

I had to raise my LUV a bit once the SBC was droped in. Its sat too low from the extra weight. I first tried an air driven impact with about 250 lbs of torque and some WD-40, didn't budge it. Then I tried a big torqueing wrench didn't budge it. Then I used a 4 foot snipe, then an 6 foot snipe, then with a little heat and the 6 foot snipe I got them both cracked and turning. Pain in the ass to make turn, but my LUV was a bit rusty underneath. Yours doesn't look too bad. Good luck. :)

P.S. Leave a bit of space between the bump stops. Rides like crap on the bump stops. Some guys have put in small bump stops for extra lowering.

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-2001 F-350 Superduty XLT 7.3L Diesel Auto, Ext. Cab, Long Box, White In Colour
-1998 F-150 XL 4.2L V6 5spd , Reg. Cab, Flareside SB, Red In Colour


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 9:36 pm 
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awesome, thanks. Yeah, I'll leave some room and then I'm sure later I'll end up cutting them or replacing them with smaller ones to go lower.
I miss my hondas, all this stuff is new to me lol


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 11:25 pm 
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Well I dropped it a little bit
Image
Image
sorry for the bad pics. I'm gonna drive it to work tomorrow and see how I like it, and then possibly drop it some more. Sorry for the bad pics, I'll get some good ones tomorrow


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 11:41 pm 
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looking good . it will be bumpy but better then I thought it would be

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 11:45 pm 
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yeah, it's to be expected. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 2:58 am 
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It will throw off your alignment too, watch for wear on the outside edges of your tires. A quick trip to the alignment shop will set it right again tho.

Just a word of caution for the next guy (since I see its too late for you) you should put some blocks under the frame in case that adjuster bolt snaps off. You do not want to be under it if one of those lets go without something to catch the truck. I broke one on my 4x4 and it dropped like a stone. I figured it was going to break though, so I had a block under it and was out from under it when I put the 4ft cheater pipe to it.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 3:05 am 
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wow you tell scary stories 800. makes me glad that all the stuff ive lowered hasnt done that, cuz i never think to put anything under it.


as for you kicker, it looks good! i lowered my pup a little bit too. when it get to spring time im gonna put new tires on my truck and lower it more.

oh, and the permanant marker flame kicks ass man!!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 3:21 am 
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Wow 800, your a dangerous man, lol.
When i lifted my truck i put the whole front end up on jack stands. Its alot eiseir to turn the bolts when theres not as much load on em, and should one break theres no risk.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 8:00 pm 
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smokinLUV, where could one get a set of the small bump stops for a LUV. I have a 1982 that I've lowered and never messed with or known about bump stops affecting the ride quality. Now that I do I'd like to compensate for that. I was never happy with how rough the truck rode until a year or two after I lowered it. Lowered it 2" up front and in the rear. Also one thing I need to do is get Belltech shocks for the adjusted ride of it being a lowered truck. Still running same shocks that I had on before I lowered it. If someone has these small bump stops available to sell let me know. Or where I could get them. I also had a question in general on lowering for anyone who can or wants to answer. If you remove two leaf springs from the rear on both sides of the axle, on a close estimate how much will that lower the truck in the rear? Thanks.

Salvy


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 9:57 pm 
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800xl wrote:
Just a word of caution for the next guy (since I see its too late for you) you should put some blocks under the frame in case that adjuster bolt snaps off.
yeah, that's just common sense stuff right there bud. :)

here's a couple more pics
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Image
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 9:58 pm 
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Looks good
:D

(luvdiesel)You can just shorten the stock bumpstops.I cut my front bumpstops in half, and the same to the back.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 10:02 am 
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Yep, thats thats the easiest way to do it. Just cut the old ones in half. I don't know what would actually just fit in there, you might have to shop around with a tape measure to find some new ones that would fit. Maybe someone will chime in with what bumpstops exactly are smaller then stock. I read it on here that there is such a bumpstop...so somebody knows.... 8) :)

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-1981 Chevy LUV, 283SBC, T350 Trans, White In Colour, Long Box, Never Ending Project!
-2001 F-350 Superduty XLT 7.3L Diesel Auto, Ext. Cab, Long Box, White In Colour
-1998 F-150 XL 4.2L V6 5spd , Reg. Cab, Flareside SB, Red In Colour


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 5:47 pm 
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That would be pretty cool to get four bump stops that are already made smaller in height. But cutting the original ones down is the next option of course. What kind of drop can one expect if you take out two leaf springs on each side of the rear axle? Will you get a drop of at least one inch? My 82 LUV has four leaf springs on each side and that many really isn't needed unless I were to load the bed a lot and haul stuff. Not really my intentions for my truck anymore.


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 Post subject: Luv Diesel
PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 1:21 am 
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Lowering blocks are cheap and a lot easier.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:21 am 
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Well, I've found that using 2" lowering blocks on the rear of my truck has left no driveshaft play at all. When going to remove the driveshaft where it meets up to the rear axle, it's hard to get the driveshaft to disconnect after you've taken the 4 bolts lose that secure it to the rear axle. Should not have to do much to get that lose and have the rear driveshaft drop and be free from the rear axle. What happens in turn with the no play in driveshaft is that it puts tension on the transmission going forward toward the front of the truck. Recently, I had my transmission go out on my truck and my dad and I couldn't get the transmission to disconnect after taking all the bolts out that connect it to the engine! We ended up having to cut the front input shaft because it flared around the edges and wouldn't come through the pilot bearing smoothly like it regularly should. So, I'd much rather use drop leaf springs now to see if I can gain the factory play in the driveshaft to make my current transmission last much longer than the last one. http://www.zmotive.com has 3" drop leaf springs for an 88-95 Isuzu pickup and I'm not sure if that will fit onto the older 81-87 Isuzu pickups? Plus, I'd rather buy a pair of 2" drop leaf springs as I don't want to drop 3" in the rear. They also sell 2" drop leaf springs for an 84-88 Toyota pickup and I'm wondering if I could buy them and have them work on my 1982 LUV? As long as the measurements are the same I don't see why not.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 12:00 pm 
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I’m confused; I don’t understand how the lowering springs would make a difference. To me if you lower the truck you have to lower the frame which the trans is attached to so if its blocks or leaf springs is it still going to lower the frame and you would have the same problem? Just a question because I’m not sure.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:07 am 
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da LUV masta
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so hold on if you lower your rear with blocks it messes up the driveshaft length? if so everyone that dropped your luv down had to modify there drive shaft? if so what did you do cause i'm fixing to drop mine 3 " in january and if requires chopping the drive shaft and refitting it i might have second thoughts and have to try an alternative.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:09 pm 
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I guess you could say the driveshaft length does change because when I put in 2" blocks for the rear, more importantly, the driveshaft angle changed. I've also lowered the front about 2" also. You figure the truck is level with the even drop, but the driveshaft is not even. And I don't really know if springs would be better to lower it than blocks, only if I were to go ahead and try springs to see if there is a difference. Either way I think you would probably have to shorten the driveshaft to gain the factory play that you have when the truck is at stock height. Anybody think 84-88 Toyota pickup 2" drop leaf springs will be able to fit on my 82 LUV?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 1:15 pm 
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dropping your truck should not require a modified driveshaft. the distance from the rear of the tranny housing to the shoulder on the driveshaft yoke will decrease somewhat, but it should not make it that close, at least in my experience. As for lowering blocks vs. drop leaf springs, the blocks are inexpensive, easy to install and retain the factory spring and load rating for your truck. drop leafs sometimes are just monoleaf springs which tend to give a softer ride and a loss of payload carrying capability due to the different spring rate. I would go with blocks myself, but if you want to go drop springs, i would think the S-10 springs would be a close match. But measure yours and contact the tech support for the ones you are looking at.


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