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 Post subject: No Ignition Spark
PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2005 5:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 8:44 pm
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Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Need some assistance.

I have put a new engine in the truck and she turns over but the coil don't spark. I checked all of the cables and they seem fine, and the vaccuum lines too, and traced the coil and whatnot, but I am getting no spark at the ignition coil.

I have put a new coil in today and still nada.

Any suggestions?

If anyone has a diagram can you PM me?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:11 am 
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Joined: Sun May 12, 2002 10:07 am
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Location: Backwoods of Redding CA
We have wiring diagrams in the tech section if thats what you need? How are your points and condenser?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:26 am 
Check to see if there's voltage going to the coil. No inny-no outy.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 12:16 pm 
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Condensor is new. The points look good. Just no sparky from the coil.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 12:24 pm 
Yes, no spark from the coil, but are you getting voltage TO the coil? Just thinking the problem might be before the coil in primary wiring.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 2:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 11:20 pm
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Location: McMinnville, OR
You should see 12volt at the coil + terminal when you turn the key to start, and somewhat less than that if the motor is running and the key is at ON. You could have wiring issue, problem with the relays that run the resistor bypass. You could run a wire from the - side of the coil down to the distributor to eliminate that side too.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:35 pm 
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Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Well I volted it all the way down to the distributor. I was getting everything all the way down to the distributor exept two things.

Nothing coming down the ignitor coil. So I checked the consistency of the condensor, which checked out OK. :smt102

Then I took the points out blindly. Just ripping them out and looking at them. There was a mighty big pit in them. So I took the points out of the old distributor with the new engine and she cranked right up. :onfire: 0X

So, come to find out when the head gasket blew out, the rest is history. The gasket burned between #3 and #4. We took the engine apart and found the follering:

The place where the gasket burned out also burned the block (made a nice rounded part between the pistons.
The points burned out.
The rings in #4 cylendar when we took them out just fell out. They were broken.
The engine block smelled like burned or new steel that was being burned with a torch.

Now with the rebuilt engine in it, she runs. However, I had to adjust the stupid rock pan cause it was rubbing against the flywheel.

The only thing to do is to put gear oil back in, make sure all of the happy little connectors are connected, and clean up the floor and drive the old engine to the bone yard. Unless someone wants some pieces. 8-)

But she wouldn't start cause of the points. The new ones I have to gap, but I am happy that it is fixed.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 9:19 pm 
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Good deal!!! Friggin $5 part, for a $100 headache :evil:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 9:22 pm 
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Yeah, and I looked up and started saying something and cracked my nose on the frame and smacked my head on the friggin concrete too. Knocked me silly.

Got up like Rick Moranis in Ghostbusters when they wanted to do a cavity search - "Yeah - alright - who am I?"

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 9:47 pm 
The big pit in the points usually indicates a faulty condenser or else coil wires inadvertently reversed + for -.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2005 10:15 am 
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I think the old condensor did it, when I put the new one in I didn't check the points, I was just happy that it was running. The new set and the new condensor is in and she cranks and runs normal.

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- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2003 5:10 pm
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Location: Prineville, OR
Glad to hear everything is working. It's nice to have the only (relatively speaking) problem, is getting rid of the old stuff. 8)

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