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 Post subject: Points gap stock luv
PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:11 am 
Anyone know what the ignition points gap is for a 1974 chevy luv 1.8L?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:02 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2003 5:10 pm
Posts: 1746
Location: Prineville, OR
s/b .018 to .022 inches

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 2:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 11:20 pm
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Location: McMinnville, OR
Looks like it depends on the book you read. The Haynes shows 74-75 the same, Chiltons and Clymer show them a little different.

Haynes: .018-.022 (75 is the same)

Chilton/Clymer: .016-.024 (75 is 18-22)

Since the Haynes is within the amounts given in the other two books, setting it between .018 and .022 should be right on either way you look at it. I don't have a series 3 factory manual to look at either. I need to update my library I guess.

72 and 73 trucks have dual point sets with different settings on each set of points. If you happen to have one of those distributors, well I forgot those so I'd need to look at my book again. ;)

Just a tip, if you set the gap and can't get it to run pretty quick, try again. Don't crank and crank trying to get it to fire. I did that once in my 76 (filing points along the side of the road with a nail file gappin them by sight/feel, so not a lot of choice) and it finally got some fire. The unburnt gas in the exhaust system from all that cranking went off like a bomb. Split the muffler right in half and scared all the birds/small animals off for a mile in any direction. If it doesn't at least pop a bit turning over, you probably have the gap off and it is time to try setting it again.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2003 2:04 am
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Location: Ridgecrest, CA
the series 3 service manual says

breaker points gap 0.018-0.022 inch
dwell angle 49-55 degrees when point gap is 0.020

i need to finish updating my library too... :wink:


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 Post subject: Thanks Guys
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:39 pm 
Thanks for the information. I used the information given and it runs great. I should say it ran great after i rebuilt the carb today and found several critical parts missing.

One of the parts was the little nylon ball at the bottom of the accelerator pump on the carb. Then I found the spring was upside down and corrected that.

A washer was missing in the coast solenoid under the little spring, replaced that.

I guess a shade tree mechanic was in the mix at some point to make these kinds of mistakes.

I'm going to purchase a book for this machine in the near future.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 1:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 11:20 pm
Posts: 2825
Location: McMinnville, OR
The Haynes book is still available at most parts shops, and it is really good for the LUV. I've had other Haynes books for other vehicles where they were too generic, but the LUV book is close to being as good as a factory manual. For a factory manual, look on ebay. They show up fairly regular.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2005 9:02 am
Posts: 54
Location: Mesa, Az
for the most accurate measurement you need a dwell meter. the "gap " measurement may be off as much as 10 degrees especially if you have a bad lobe on the distributor. the dwell measurement should be on the hood aswell as in the book


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 12:51 am 
Thanks again for the information. My next project is to replace the original 4.56 ratio third member with a 3.42 so I can reduce the top end rpms and save the motor from excessive abuse.

If anyone has any comments on what I'm about to do, please feel welcome to share any information you might have. I'm working on a 3.73 third member as well if the 3.42 doesn't pan out to be what I expect.


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