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 Post subject: brakes
PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 9:32 pm 
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need help with my brakes. installed a 9'' ford with rear disc. now my pedal will not hold the truck, i have to pump it several times to get it to stop. do i need a larger master cylinder?? or what. running a full race 468 big block around 650hp and need stopping power..


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 6:15 am 
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Location: Prineville, OR
Sounds like you may need to bleed the brakes. If you aren't losing a little fluid somewhere, I would just bleed them again. I have a sbc and a 9" and it stops fine. Remember not to put the pedal all the way to the floor when you bleed the brakes...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 6:57 pm 
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so what does pushing the pedal to the floor have anything to do with it? i have blead it many times,but it must still have air cuz it feels spongy.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:47 pm 
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you'll probably use up the vacuum built up in the brake booster if you press all the way down... that's what i would think anyways...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:31 pm 
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800xl wrote:
I stuff a block of wood or something under the pedal when bleeding the brakes. You generally don't want the pedal to bottom out during bleeding or you can create probs with the master cylinder. The piston and cups have a range they tend to stay in along the cylinder. If you let the pedal bottom out on the floor during bleeding then you're pushing the piston out of that normal range and potentially into buildup or gunk on the inside of the cylinder. Since I started doing this, I have not had a bad master cylinder. Two of the three LUV master cyls I've replaced went within a month or so of bleeding the brakes to the floorboard.


gordo wrote:
I've heard of people ruining their master cylinder during brake bleeding. When people bleed the brakes they usually crack the bleeder open untill the pedal hits the floor. Under normal operation the brake pedal never goes near that point and rust can form inside the bore of the master cylinder. When the pedal is pressed to the floor, the rubber o-rings go further into the bore to the rusty area putting microscopic cuts in them, thus causing fluid to seep past them. I don't know if this is your problem, but thought it might be something to consider.


Do a search for "Bleeding" and there are a couple of threads about it with some good info. The 2 quotes are from 2 different threads on the subject.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 10:49 pm 
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well this is a new master cylinder, and those tips are good. i will try again, not letting the pedal hit the floor. has anyone tried installing a larger master cylinder?? i can fabricate anything. and as soon as i get ahold of a digital camera , i will put some pics on this site showing my truck with the 468 and 9". . it ran 11.2 in the 1/4 @ 119mph with a sbc and stock rearend... as soon as i get this brake problem fixed i will let everyone know how the rat does. it came out of a 8.5 sec. rail. it should be around 600hp and i wieghed it sunday at 2700lbs


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 11:58 pm 
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Damn!!!!! Sounds like a beast 8) Can't wait for the pics :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:42 pm 
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after days of trying to get the stocker master cylinder to work i said the heck with it. i bought one for a 80 vette ( they have 4 wheel disc) and now all is well. back to the srtip for some low 10's.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:44 am 
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cool deal man. get us some pics.
peace


neil

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