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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2003 11:09 pm 
NAH, my foot med's were kickin in. Just messin around. :lol:


g


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2003 12:10 am 
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this space for rent
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:52 pm
Posts: 3427
Location: McChord AFB WA by way of Spokane WA
man that is sexy! :lol:
Yeah keeping a 400 cool while mudding and hill climbing is a chalenge, a guy i wheel whith has a 70 suburban whith one and he has issues whith it, but he just shuts it down or lets it idle alot and its never overheated.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...


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 Post subject: radiators
PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2003 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 01, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 117
Location: Roxboro, North Carolina
Check out this brand of radiators. I me
t the reps for this company 2 yrs ago, they really have a top notch product. the site is http://www.rodneyred.com

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1980 4X4 LUV


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2003 12:36 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2003 2:34 am
Posts: 54
Location: Beavercreek Oregon
Rick Smith
They do have some outstanding products and they even have polished aluminium radiators. 8O

But $400-500 is more than I have spent on my whole project. Mine is definetly LOW budget.

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 Post subject: headers
PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2003 1:47 pm 
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Japanese Redneck
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Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 11:42 am
Posts: 1125
Location: San Diego, California
Yeah those Camaro headers (Chevelle and Nova too) work great when you dont have to deal with them torsion bars.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2003 10:23 pm 
You cant use TufLUV, that's already taken. :P


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2003 4:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2003 2:34 am
Posts: 54
Location: Beavercreek Oregon
UPDATE 1/23/03:
Had a minor setback. After getting the front spring perches welded up and the front springs installed, I discovered the front drveline angle would be too severe. The top of my frame is 36" off the ground in the front.

To cure this, I unbolted the factory trans mount from the frame, turned it upside down and reinstalled/welded it. That lowered the back of the tranny about 2-1/2". That meant I had to also lower the transfer case the same amount. Had to cut out the transfer case supports and reweld them.

After lowering the transfer case, the the rear driveshaft was too close to the rear crossmember. Cured this by cutting out a 5" section of the crossmember, made a driveshaft loop out of 3/16" X 3" steel, then rewelded it into the missing section and added gussets on top of the crossmember to the driveshaft loop.

Body WILL go back on this weekend.... I'll take some more pics.

Worked on the body a little this week too. Cut out the center section of the radiator support and replaced it with a piece of aluminium channel for ease of engne/trans removal. Also cut a piece of thin aluminium to cover the radiator opening since the radiator is moving to the bed. Last thing, I modified an S-10 chrome tube grill and installed it.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2003 4:46 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2003 2:34 am
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Location: Beavercreek Oregon
TufLUV wrote:
You cant use TufLUV, that's already taken. :P


GOTCHA! :(

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