LUVTruck.com

What is a good oil to use for a rebuilt engine? Is castrol 10-40 good for it, I know that I can't use synthetic oils. I am just curious if anyone has an opinion on this matter. Also, I have been hearing alot of different ideas on how to break the engine in, now what about if I have rebuilt everything, what do I do to break it in? Do I just get the engine started and let it run at 2000 rpm's for 20 minutes? But what about if the timing is not set or the carburetor is not adjusted? Do I just start it and let it run or do I adjust it at idle and then run it at 2000 rpm's for 20 minutes. Any help would be awesome. Shane

well I wont say anything about oil, but I surely will say to stay away from the FRAM oil filter. They are a P.O.S. Made out of cardboard junk. Do your truck a favor and spend the extra buck or 2 and get a good filter. NAPA sells 1[the napa brand one] that I have seen the insides of it, and it looked real good to me. My .02

Thats funny! I just bought a fram oil filter yesterday only because it matched the color of the engine and looked cool

toss it and buy a good one, and then paint it the same color

_________________
'80 Luv 4x4, 3" BL, 1.5" SL, 32/36, 2.25" exhaust...and fuzzy dice.
'95 Toyota 4Runner Limited 5-Speed.

the k&n ones are sweet. after a couple weeks my oil was still see through

_________________
1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio

For the best kind of oil to use after a engine is just rebuilt is the cheapest oil you can find. It has to have the friction to break in faster than after like 3000 miles go to some good stuff.

_________________

Thats funny about painting the oil filter. I just went ahead and bought 10-40. Any suggestions about breaking the engine in though

is this the 250 I6 that yor put together? heres some info from GM.

GM’S RECOMMENDED CRATE ENGINE START-UP PROCEDURE
Print this page out and check off boxes below (in the printed copy) when each step is completed.
Step Box
1) Safety first! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear. Next verify that all hoses are tight and that both the radiator and radiator over flow jar/tank are full and have been filled with the proper anti-freeze and water mix.
2) Before starting your engine for the first time, add one pint of engine oil supplement ( EOS¹) to the crankcase oil and then check the oil level. Once this has been done, prime the oil system with an oil pump primer tool. Make sure number 1 cylinder is on TDC compression stroke, and install the distributor.
3) Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible.

4) When the engine first starts, verify that the engine rpm is at a safe level and that the timing is set near or at 30° before top dead center (BTDC). Run the engine speed between 1,500 and 2,500 RPM’s, varying the engine speed up and down with-in this range, to prevent overheating of the exhaust valves and the exhaust system. This should be done with no-load on the engine and for the first 30 minutes of operation.
5) After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing according to the timing specifications. Now would be a good time to check thoroughly for leaks.

6) Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
7) Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM.
Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
9) Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 3,800 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
10) Change the oil and filter with recommended oil (10w30SG in most cases) and filter.
11) Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM’s (below 3,800 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12) Change oil and filter again.

13) Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles!

Note¹: EOS P/N 1052367 can be used any time during the life of the engine.
Technical Note: This procedure has been corrected and improved from the original GMPP procedure by Sallee Chevrolet.
Warning: Your engine will not be fully broke in until after at least 2,000 miles of driving have been put on it with normal organic oil.

_________________
"but its that gut feeling of you're drawn to what feels right for yourself and what you're passionate about..."

great info.. thanks

i use fram oil filters

everyone is entitled to their opinion

Yeah, it is the inline 6, thanks for the info man

For pretty decent article on oil filters check out this URL

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfil ... .html#fram

PS, most of FRAMS products did not fair well in the ratings

oh i wouldnt use penzoil brand even if its cheap they mix it with bees wax to reduce friction so then your motor is clogged with that stuff just passin the info on they might have some better oils without that but i wouldnt use their cheap stuff

I to have used them, but until I actually seen the insides of one I didn't know any diffrence. Check it out and you will probably never use one again unless you are out target practicing with a 12GA.

The way i've always dealt with a new motor was to use a basic grade, non-detergent motor oil that was clear in color from a reputable company. Stay away from reconsituted oil. With basic, clear oil it wont cost you as much if there's a major oil leak at initial sartup. It's bad enough that there's a big puddle under the vehicle but an expensive puddle of oil will really piss you off.
Clear oil will readily show how fast the oil gets dirty. Also if there's metallic dust, it will tip you off ot some kind of metal grind in the engine. During break in, 80 percent of motor break in happens within the first 20 min or so and oil is initially flushing dirt out that has made it's way in to the motor during the engine assembly. Expensive oils wont do much better during this time.
After tuning the motor and getting any leaks fixed you can see if the engine is consuming too much oil during break in. If so, you might have to go back in to the motor. Once everything is broken in and oil stays in the motor without leaking it out or burning it away, change the oil and filter with some good stuff.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.