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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2004 2:53 pm 
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Location: East Sierra Nevadas, Nevada
got tired of my heater always being on so i took the stocker apatr(a feat in it's self) and re o-ringed it and voila!!!!

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Boobies!!! :D


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 Post subject: Details Please
PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2004 3:32 pm 
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Can you hook us all up with much more detail on this? I am sure tons of folks would be looking to fix thier leaking ones.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2004 4:46 pm 
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i used a soldering pencil to melt the top apart....i started about 3/16 inch in and kept melting till i got the top off .....about 1/4-5/16 inch down.

put the o-rings in and melted it back together and that's it....oh yeah... i used a little ABS cement from work and that re-sealed the top clean.

i pressure tested it at 20 lbs and it didn't leak ,so it's in the truck now.....took it for a drive up a really big hill and it doesn't leak on the truck either....

like i said..... i want some of the old brass ones to see if i can un-solder the top and try that......

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Boobies!!! :D


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2004 4:51 pm 
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thanks, i'll have to try this on my ol done, and look around for a brass one


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 9:16 pm 
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where's all the luv at? wrote:
i used a soldering pencil to melt the top apart....i started about 3/16 inch in and kept melting till i got the top off .....about 1/4-5/16 inch down.

put the o-rings in and melted it back together and that's it....oh yeah... i used a little ABS cement from work and that re-sealed the top clean.

i pressure tested it at 20 lbs and it didn't leak ,so it's in the truck now.....took it for a drive up a really big hill and it doesn't leak on the truck either....

like i said..... i want some of the old brass ones to see if i can un-solder the top and try that......


Wouldn't it be easeir just to buy a replacement valve? It be differnt if you could uncrew it or if it actually was meant to be takenn aprart. I just think melting plastic could put off some bad fumes in the process.

A weird thing happend to my valve. It leaked when I had it on cold, but I replaced the thermostat and then refilled the radiator, then ran the truck, and now there is now leak.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2004 2:05 am 
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You find a source for new replacement valves you're not telling us about Zane? Mine currently leaks on cold, tho lately with 23F nights here I don't have to worry about having the heater on cold much. I have a brass one that I need to get put on soon though as this one seems to be a leak of vac pressure so my overflow jug doesn't back fill the rad when the motor cools.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2004 8:11 pm 
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The brass valve has tabs at the top that hold in the plastic valve section. The top is not soldered on. They don't look too friendly to bending back so you can get at the guts of the valve. The same tabs also hold it to the bracket that bolts onto the firewall. Just looked at mine so I though I'd share.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 30, 2004 12:28 am 
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800xl wrote:
You find a source for new replacement valves you're not telling us about Zane? Mine currently leaks on cold, tho lately with 23F nights here I don't have to worry about having the heater on cold much. I have a brass one that I need to get put on soon though as this one seems to be a leak of vac pressure so my overflow jug doesn't back fill the rad when the motor cools.


I manufacture them. 23.95 plus Shipping and Handling.
Just Kidding! :lol:

I found replacements on http://www.Carparts.com They have them with hoses with 2 sizes. 3/4 and 5/8


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 12:52 am 
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Well my supposedly good brass valve was completely shot. Was leaking a stream open or closed. I pulled another plastic one off a spare truck and had a plain elbow ready if that didn't work. So far the plastic replacement is holding. Now to tear into the old one... what did I do with that hammer?

You will have a rough time pulling apart one of the brass valves. The top is crimped onto the bracket, and the innards had dent crimps around the sides that hold them down in as well. The packing around the shaft looks like it might come off from the outside though, so I'll look into that. I can at least disect this one and see if there might be a trick to opening it up without damaging it beyond repair.


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 Post subject: valve
PostPosted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 12:57 am 
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I wonder if one of those gas valves we used to mount as a shut off valve on the floor board for saddle gas tanks on Ford or Chevys would adapt.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 9:37 pm 
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Zane wrote:
melting plastic could put off some bad fumes in the process.

That's y he's got that avatar...

But i'd just saw into the top untill i was in then use some accu-weild and bond the plastic together...

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 Post subject: Gonna make you drool
PostPosted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 11:12 pm 
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Sorry guys, but I thought I would add my comment...

I found a NOS heater control valve on E-bay four months ago and it looks so pretty. Especially since that looks to be the reason the engine that came with my truck was toasted....

I have two rebuildable valves if anyone wants them....

-DK


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 Post subject: Re: Gonna make you drool
PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 9:17 pm 
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dkay wrote:
I have two rebuildable valves if anyone wants them....

-DK


how much?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 11:03 pm 
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do you think this would work
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=33548

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 11:54 pm 
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ctmandu wrote:


It's hard to tell because they only show you the one angle, but I would say it could be made to work.

Chad


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2004 3:02 am 
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Looks like the same valve hooked to a different bracket. The LUV valve is bent around the bracket, so it would not be simple to swap them. You might have to graft the two brackets together, but it does look like it could be made to work.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2004 11:04 pm 
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or how about this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... egory=6755

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