LUVTruck.com

next thing i would do is run a compression check.

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1980 chevy luv 4x4 1.8 liter
1979 luv long bed parts truck
1984 2wd isuzu pup parts truck

"A man who says it can't be done shouldn't interrupt a man doing it."

Richard:
Just splice another foot or so of wire on the solenoid wire. It won't hurt it's operation.

Grimace is right. If you can afford it, Weber is the way to go.

I tried disconnecting the the linkage to the secondary an flooring it, it didn't move at all. I'm going to use a vacum gauge to see if there are any leaks, maybe then i'll find my problem, oh an thanks guys for all the help I really needed it

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'80 Luv 4x4, 3" BL, 1.5" SL, 32/36, 2.25" exhaust...and fuzzy dice.
'95 Toyota 4Runner Limited 5-Speed.

Rezkid:

Take the vacuum line of the secondary actuator loose so you can suck on the other end of it, leaving it connected to the actuator. You shouldn't be able to draw air. There's a diaphram in there that moves the rod that makes the secondary linkage move. If you draw air, then the diaphram has a hole and is leaking.

Grimace: I can't afford a weber cause I'm trying to support a wife and child on $9 bucks an hour. My monthly NECESSITIES equal about a hundred less than I make, a month. So I don't have a lot of upgrade cash.

81Luv4x4: I did and it's running a solid 120 lbs. All four cylinders.

Robert: I was actually splicing that wire right after I posted about the wire being real short and it was tough cause there wasn't alot to splice too, I had to trim back the black boot a little to get more wire. But anyway, I put that on and no change.


All: I've been tuning the crap out of it, and it's running ok, it'll up and decide to stall on me once or twice from work to home, but most of the time it runs ok. I just wish I knew what it was.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

Richard:
I meant to ask you if you had the egr valve hooked up. It's on the under side of the intake manifold dead center on the back. The one the one inch pipe comes around the back of the engine and connects to. If the small vacuum line is hooked up, take it off and cap off it's vacuum source on the carb or manifold. Then see how it runs.

yeah, I do have it hooked up, but I'll cap it off and tell you what it does. What exactly does the egr on my truck do?

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

Richard:

Chemistry was not my forte in school, but The EGR (exhaust gas recirculating) Valve allows exhaust gas into the intake manifold that somehow chemically reduces nitrous oxide, if I remember right, pollution. This also builds up carbon in the EGR Valve so it won't seat correctly. This allows too much air into the intake manifold and leans out the mixture. Sort of like a vacuum leak. My LUV wouldn't run right below 35 mph if the EGR Valve was open. It was herky jerky, plus the idle was rough. I took the small vacuum line to it off the carb base and capped the carb base. Ran better. I eventually removed the EGR Valve and the adapter it mounts on off the intake manifold and made a plate to cover the opening left on the bottom of the intake manifold. You have to pass the smog test, right? You could cap the vacuum supply port on the carb until test time.

yeah, I have smog, but it wasn't hooked up when I had it tested and my guy managed to make it pass anyway. doesn't have a smog pump or a cat either.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

It is for lowering emissions of Nitrogen Oxide. Under normal conditions, Air (N2O2) reacts with the fuel and creates byproducts of the Carbon oxides CO and CO2, water (H2O), and the Nitrogen (N2) passes right through. If combustion temps rise too high, the N2 will combine with the other byproducts and starts forming Nitrogen Oxide (NO). They don't want that stuff in the air because it immediately becomes NO2, which combines with other hyrdocarbon emissions to form heavy smog molecules. The EGR valve passes exhaust (which doesn't burn) into the combustion chamber which makes the fuel air mix burn cooler. This lowers the temps back below the point which NO starts to form. I pulled some of this info from various sources on the internet, just search google or someplace for "EGR function" and you should find out a lot more.


It also has the side effect of reducing pinging and/or preignition, which is also caused by higher combustion temps. With it gone on my 79 I found I can't advance the timing as far as I can on my 77 without it sounding like shaking a paint can. With a header on the 79 it is sort of a fair trade losing the EGR, but I'd like to be able to get every little bit out by tuning and the header. It would be nice if someone would put an EGR bung on a LUV header so at least the option is there.

With a little fabricating, couldn't you put on on the header yourself? Cut a hole and then weld the bung on? Anyways.

According to my vacuum diagram on the hood, which is the way it's routed on the truck. The EGR goes to a back pressure transducer, then into a thermal vacuum valve and then into the intake.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

Yeah I suppose it could be done, the trouble is just finding a fitting to weld on the matches the threads of the stock pipe. Judging by how many people have tried to just find a plug for the hole on the intake that fits the threads I doubt finding a fitting that would recieve it would be any easier. I'd probably have to figure out how to replace the pipe or attach another end to it.

All that was figured out as a way to control smog before computer chips were used to solve the problem. A Rube Goldberg fix that causes more problems than it fixes, IMHO.

So should I plug off the egr and the Backpressure trandsducer? Or somewhere else? Vacuum systems kinda confuse me, I just follow what the picture says.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

Take the vacuum line off going to the EGR Valve from the carb or intake manifold, whichever is the source for the vacuum. Cap the port and stick wooden dowell or nail in the hose. Now run your LUV a day and see how it goes. I took all those little valves, transducers, and whachmacallits off my LUV. The only smog up here is created by the farmers burning their fields.

I have a vacuum line on my truck that's not on the diagram on the hood, maybe it's because I have a G200 engine in my truck. But my backpressure transducer has a third vacuum line in the bottom that goes into the intake manifold just under the carb. Anyone know what this is?

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

Richard:
On the 1.8 that vacuum line is routed through a thermal valve inserted into the water jacket of the intake manifold then on to the vacuum port on the manifold. This keeps the transducer from working until the engine warms up. Obviously not the same in the 2.0.

Ok, I've got every single vacuum line capped but the timing advance. It's still doing it occasionally, but when I start it back up if I floor it a couple times it'll run ok. I'm thinking that I've probably gotta clogged jet that's giving my truck coronary problems.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

I had it goin' so it was runnin' ok, but I loaned it to my mom to run to the store and she brought it back all fucked up.

It'll die within three seconds of taking your foot off the gas.

You can adjust the mixture by tightening the screw all the way snug, or taking it completely out. Though it does run best just before it comes out.

Every single vacuum port is capped off but the timing advance and I can't draw air through it myself so I think the diaphram is fine.

I can keep it running by adjusting the idle speed to almost cruising rpms, but it still runs kinda rough.

I've got about $60 to fix it or it has to sit for a while til I can afford it.

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Richard Barnes Salt Lake, Utah
1980 Luv Mikado 4X4
http://geocities.com/luvtruck2004/

have you acualy tried to hotwire the idle solenoid?
just run it to the pre balast side of the ignition circut.

i had to do that for a while till i put the weber on this weekend.it really made a hell of a difference.

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