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lots of bubbles, my oil is light brown, and only about 1 week old. i keep having to refill my radiator. could this be a head gasket leak? i also think i have a leak in my water pump gasket.

ALSO... i have an oil leak under my crankshaft pulley. ill have to pull the motor to fix this problem wont i?

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Looking for a LUV in NC. gimmie...

either a head gasket or cracked head.
sorry to hear that dude...

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03Cobra

i agree with luv4me, and made the force be with you young skywalker

yep, sounds like water in the oil. good luck on the repairs, might be a good time to check the rest of the internals of the motor and consider fixing anything else that could cause problems while you have it torn apart.

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1980 chevy luv 4x4 1.8 liter
1979 luv long bed parts truck
1984 2wd isuzu pup parts truck

"A man who says it can't be done shouldn't interrupt a man doing it."

by the way, try not to drive the truck, cause water in the oil will tear up the bearings, if you run it much. you might want to change the oil even if you don't drive it, so you don't have water sitting in your oil pan. if it sits for awhile, the water will seperate from the oil and go to the bottom, could start the bottom of the oil pan to rust if its in there long enough.

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1980 chevy luv 4x4 1.8 liter
1979 luv long bed parts truck
1984 2wd isuzu pup parts truck

"A man who says it can't be done shouldn't interrupt a man doing it."

i definetly agree whith what has been said. Good luck

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

I had a bad head gasket on my 80 4x4 and all it did was blow the antifreez out of the cap. I never had water in my oil. sounds like a cracked block or too much slop in the pistons allowing the water to get into the oil. Might try a head gasket since there pretty easy to install.

ive had that problem with one of mu engines, the head was corroded so much that the water jacket reached the cylinder in many places and getting in the oil past the rings

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I said no to drugs....But they just wouldn't listen!

No matter how good she looks, some other guy is sick and tired of putting up with her crap!

well, i got the head off. how did you guys clean the old gasket off of your head? i took a razor blade and mineral spirits to mine. now im afraid that i may have scraped a little too hard and messed up the surface cuz its aluminum. nothing too deep i hope, and i didnt see any cracks.

when putting the head gasket on, should i use any RTV on the gasket first, or leave it dry? what about the bolts, anything to seal them? i have heard not to use lock-tight because of the heat of the block. could i use RTV for that? and where would i put it, on the threads, or on the head(where there are no threads)???

damn...

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Looking for a LUV in NC. gimmie...

always leave the head gasket dry.

I have always been told to use oil (no RTV or anything like that) on the head bolts to get a proper torque reading.
anyone else wanna chime in?

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03Cobra

whoah!!!!!!!! do not use anything between the head and block but a gasket.

cast iron blocks and aluminum heads are a bad idea to begin withdue to the fact that there expansion rates are diffrent. you want an almost pollished surface on your head and block. sealant will cause the gasket to stick to one or both of the surfaces and when they warm up it will tear the gasket up slowly and eventualy blow again.if you can't get to a machine shop to resurface the head(about$50.00)then use a no wax polishing paste and a clean cloth,but make sure that you don't get sloppy with it, cause it's not good for the engine to have grit in it.

for the record when i was young and dumb i owned a ford courier and replaced the head gasket several times before my machinest told me how not to put a head together.

iv'e learned that when a head gasket goes, 9 out of 10 times you'll need to resurface it any way because it's a little warped. that will save you a headache later.no sense in replacing it twice ya know.

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if ya cant aford to resurface the head and block, just attack it with some steel wool and a water dispersnt spary, i did this on mine and it came up koots

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I said no to drugs....But they just wouldn't listen!

No matter how good she looks, some other guy is sick and tired of putting up with her crap!

or
if ya cant aford to resurface the head and block, just attack it with some steel wool and a water dispersnt spary, i did this on mine and bob's your uncle

Will that work noyz?

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Resident lurker

i went to my local machine shop and they told me to use oil on the bolts, and use RTV on the bolts that water came in contact with. i asked him if it was ok to use RTV on all of the bolts because i didnt know what bolts touched water and they told me that was cool. as long as i wasnt just tightening the bolts dry, i should get a good reading.

i put the head on last night, im gonna finish up today after school. if this doesnt last long, then i think its 4.3 time!

oh ya, has any1 else noticed how very hard it is to fit a torque wrench into a LUV engine bay? NO ROOM!!! and its almost impossible to get at some of the bolts without an extension. i was told that when 5" or more ext. is used, then it could throw off torque readings. is this true?

also(sorry this is so long!), all of my head bolts are Allen bolts, except the #7 and #8(the front two) which are hex heads. is this the same on yours?

thanks for all the info guys!

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Looking for a LUV in NC. gimmie...

Mine are all allen head. Wish they were hex head. Just buy 2 more hex head.

yeah i think they all have hex heads, i just cut the end off an allen key and stuck it in a socket to undo them and do em up


oh and diarmadhim, yeah bobs ur uncle works too

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I said no to drugs....But they just wouldn't listen!

No matter how good she looks, some other guy is sick and tired of putting up with her crap!

No matter what bolt head you have, torque outward from the center of the head towards the front and back alternately. Redo the torque pattern once a year and you won't get a warped head plus water and oil leaks.

well, i went to start the truck, and guess what... it didnt. from what i can see ive got everything together right except a few loose wires. one wire is from the vacuum advance unit on the distributer. i think its supposed to go to the + side of the coil. and theres two other wires and i dont know where they came from. theres a green one and a yellow one with a black stripe. the damn haynes book isnt tellin me where they go, so i guess im just gonna start hookin them to places and hope i dont fry anything.

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Looking for a LUV in NC. gimmie...

ok, now the only wire i need to hook up is on the vacuum advance unit. does this just bolt on to the stud on the distributor? it has to... thats the only thing it reaches

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Looking for a LUV in NC. gimmie...

Sounds like the condensor wire. If it goes to a little metal can bolted to the side of the distributor, then yes it does go on the the stud on the distributor that the wire from the coil hooks to.