LUVTruck.com

So my 78 is running well now, and I went to a local and reputable body/paint shop for an estimate.
There are some hail storm dents to be popped out, some bondo to be fixed, but other than that, she's pretty decent. The guy walked the truck all around gave a good look in and out, and told me to fix it back "pristine" and paint off the frame would be $4000. Yikes!!
I do want her painted, but should I look for a cheaper alternative?
Thanks !
M

With paint (and body work) you get about what you pay for. $4k for an off-frame job is less than I was quoted. I was told it would be more like $6k. That's because they were going to remove the front & rear glass, window & door seals, hood, fenders, doors, bed, door handles, interior panels, mirrors, cab, etc. and paint it the way it was painted in the factory--bare.

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

4K isn't bad for a frame off, you can easily pay that for a regular paint job, bodywork and paint is very labor intensive. One question, does that include the engine compartment, door jambs and inside of bed? If so, that is a great price. Nothing worse than seeing a nice painted vehicle then they open the doors or hood and it is a different color or rattle canned black.

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Click on C.M. logo to go to my webpage


RIP R.J.B.

Search the web for "$50 paint job" You use thinned down Rustolium and apply it with a "wienie" roller.
You would be surprised how easy it is to do and how good it looks. Its not the answer for a valuable restoration
but it can make sense on a truck. I did it on a 54 Chevy flat bed. No one believed it was done with a roller.
Bought it for $2000 and sold it for $6000 and the paint job was the biggest factor.

In my area a frame off with jambs will start around 8K.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Thanks folks. I'm pretty convinced it is a good deal.
M

Get a quote with exactly what is included in the job in writing . Also when putting the truck in the shop you need a contract stating what all will be done and a TIME FRAME on when it will be done . This needs to be signed by both you and the owner/ manager . Also possible pay as they do work , but never pay all of the money upfront . Hopefully pay on completion . GET IT IN WRITING OR IT WAS NEVER SAID !

I have had a lot of bad experiences with body shops . The body shop calendar is 1 week =1 month

Hotrod 80 has a great point. Get a contract, in aviation we charge back a dollar amount for everyday the complete job is late.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

One option you may consider, is sanding down the whole body yourself. I'd check with a shop first to see if they'd work with you.
A good portion of the cost is prepping the surface. If they do say yes, still get a quote on it.
I used sandpaper with 240 or 220 grit (they also have a wet version you can use with water).

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1980 Luv 4x4 with a 5 speed tranny.



"When all else fails, follow the directions".

Maaco painted mine for 1600$ out the door which include two areas of rust repair, filling some holes, pulling some dents, and color matched spray in bed liner.

You get what you pay for. My rust came back in both places, paint dried out in some spots leaving lines, they didn't pull a sticker off in one spot, the bedliner will come of with a screwdriver, and paint is falling off in several places. They will touch it up for free under the warranty but it is not a $4000 paint job.

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

I was quoted a price of $5000 by a painter who does a show quality job. That was out of my budget so I went to another painter who said I could save $2000 in labor if I sanded it down to the bare metal myself. Sure, I can do that, how hard can that be? Turned out my '80 Luv had 5 coats of paint, the last coat being applied with paint-brush. I worked a month on it and finally got it down to bare metal. Painter said he'd wet sand it himself. The owner of the paint shop said I'd get 6 coats and 2 coats of clear. The actual painter put on 2 coats of one-step. It looked good for the street( which was what I wanted, no show quality) but looking closer I could see some flaws. The painter by now is out of business and I have no real recourse. Like was said above, make sure you understand and the painter understands what you expect. A written contract is a good idea!

If preventing RUST is you goal, you can buy sand paper, primer, and paint, and paint gun. Do it your self. (if you are not attempting a perfect restoration)

I have done it. About the only things I took off was the Bed, & hood. Especially if it is a same color as you currently have.

you can even do it in your drive way, buy floating the cement drive way with a coating of water to keep the dust down.

If it is your first time you may get a few sags, but it is part of learning and part of the fun.

My "self done" paint job is going on 15 years old and it is just now showing decay. Done good enough.

Do Prep & Paint the under side of the bed also. It helps with longevity a lot.

It was the best thing I ever did to keep the body in good shape.

I am a little late, but the only way to get rid of rust is to cut it out and replace it... That said you can take care of it for 10 or 15 years....You are kicking the can down the road, but on Luvs I think that is all we want to do. You must get rid of it the best you can... Navel jelly and hard work can do a good job... Randy Fegerson(sp) has a very good discussion on hotrodders.com. It is hard to find. I was on it that one some.

Some people have good luck with Ospho on doing that. It is a mild form of Phosphoric acid . Some call it a rust converter, but I do not look at it that way... The older cars had Phosphoric coating on the body panels before paint.

You can leave the Ospho on before you paint. Some say yes some say no. We did that in some industrial painting... Sprayed a similar product and then washed it off after it dried before painting.... some of the product was sill on the metal.

99% of the rust converter are crap. The big name ones are them.. A few used on bridges and oil field stuff works, but I do not know how easy it is to get a good paint.... some people say they can....

You can check around the net, but .... You never know unless you have had experience with those folks for quite a while....roll the dice.

Epoxy primer is the only thing to use. Southern Polyurethanes makes the best IMHO... Great customer support and the owner knows his business. Top coat is what ever you want and how much you want to pay....

Sorry but I have been sick and at times not able to use a computer... I am trying to catch up...

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

Forgot a important item. Do any body work before priming, but no bondo work . Regular bondo is made with talcum powder. The stuff you put on baby bottom when changing the diaper. It absorbs water, even under paint.... Prime first!!!! Then do bondo work... There are expensive bondo type products that do not have talcum powder in them... IIRC Evercoat still prime first.

Body work... Hammer Dolly
Prime.
Bondo work.
I would prime again, at least over bondo work. You should be fine ok over the bondo prime over it...
Final Prep work... Sandiing and such
Paint.

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75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.