LUVTruck.com

Ok, I think it's one of two things:
1. Wrong backup switch could be interfering...or...
2. Clutch not adjusted correctly.

I suspect #2.

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

Try this test. When going into reverse and it won't drop in, let the clutch out just a bit very slowly. Let us know if that helps and we can go from there.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Adjust the clutch so that you have about 1" of free play at the top before you start to feel resistance when pushing down with your hand.
Also a new clutch will need re-adjusted as it beds in.
The clutch safety switch position is adjustable so that it makes connection in the proper place in the clutch pedal stroke. If it's going bad pull the connector off the back & jumper the wires together, just remember it will now start without the clutch pedal being depressed- even in gear.
It may be you didn't get the shifter seated exactly right, especially if the tranny wasn't in neutral when you removed & replaced it. You might try removing it, making sure the tranny is in neutral internally- align everything if it's not- then re-install.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

The entire series of gears is less-than-smooth. Reverse being the worst. I've adjusted the clutch two times now to find the sweet spot and it barely touches the hard shifting. If I'm driving it is easier to shift than when I am parked/putting it into gear. This is opposite of before I did the clutch.

Sounds like the pilot bearing/bushing is too tight on the trans input shaft and spinning the transmission with the clutch disengaged. Just a gut feeling.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

If the pilot bearing is spinning freely, it shouldn't matter how tightly it fits the shaft, right?

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

If it's free you are correct. I have seen Mitsubishi Mighty Max trucks towed into the dealer where I worked that customers did their own clutch. If the input shaft goes into the clutch and the clutch is not perfectly centered it can damage the bearing. This is usually done when the trans is pulled to the engine with the bolts. That is why I have bolts with the heads cut off I use as guide pins and make sure the trans is flush with the engine by hand. Again, it's just my gut feeling the pilot bearing is damaged. If the engine is not running put the trans in all gears, then start it and do the same, if it's harder running then my guess is the pilot bearing. He also said it's easier to shift while it's moving, like the input/output shaft are more in less in sync.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

The clutch pedal bracket broke. Every time I would adjust the cable it would work for a minute and then suck again. My daughter called me to look at it and the pedal was way up to the left, almost to the firewall. I bent it back far enough to limp the truck home, but will need a new pedal assembly I think. Is this a common issue with LUVs?

Only ones with manual transmissions.

I had to repair mine 3 times back in the early 80's (wish I would have had internet back then ) till I put the V6 with an auto transmission in. It can be welded but you will have to pull it out of the truck. Search for links, there are many.

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Click on C.M. logo to go to my webpage


RIP R.J.B.

I never thought of asking about the bracket. I assumed it was fine while trying to help. Hope I didn't screw you up. Like Tilted said do a search, there is one thread with some good pictures. Like most said it's easier to pull the instrument cluster for pulling the bracket.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

And so I am now removing my pedal bracket (who knew every other part of the truck was connected to this piece of metal?) After removing about a thousand screws and switches and stuff, it is finally loose. (Picture Chris Farley upside down and backwards looking up into the dash...."Fat man in a little truck") I am heeding advice to take it out of the instrument cluster hole. I am wondering how to disconnect everything and know how to get it back in when I'm done. I guess I will mark all the connectors with a sharpie. At this point in the game, it looks almost impossible to move the wire harness out of the way. I am hesitant to unwrap it....I will post when I am victorious!

I got it out today. I only hope I can get everything back in and working the way it did before. ANY advice would be appreciated.

Here are some pics...(I hope).

Got the bracket welded. getting it back in is about as easy as getting it out.

Have owned a 79 4X4 for 17 years I use to go thru clutch cables constantly. The pedal bracket was to week and would bend making the cable bind and eventually break. This is a very common problem with the 4X4's I always carried a spare clutch cable they would break so often. I'd weld the bracket back together but the design just isn't strong enough. I fabricated a bracket that bolts in using existing mounts, it supports the floating side of the pedal bracket, no more problem, ever. The clutch cable has lasted over 10 years since I did this, still have the last spare one under the seat. If anyone interested I can take a picture of it.

The pedal bracket is back in. (Amazing how easy it is to drive now). I have gotten all the electrical connections back together in their rightful spots and......would never wish this particular removal/repair/installation on anyone with fingers as big as mine are...ever. Thank you again for all the information and advice. With there being only one thread about the pedal bracket repair the moderator may want to move this or change the title.
Ken