LUVTruck.com

Jack is correct. You have to remove the rear cross member. The trans then must be pulled back until the input shaft is clear of the clutch pack, then tilt the trans and let the front drop down and then slide the unit forward until the rear of the trans clears the other cross member.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

The rubber enclosed bearing just behind the cross member. (Thought it was called the spindle bearing). I removed the entire bracket which is still attached to the rear end of the transmission and I think that may be hanging me up. Clearances are tight, there is really no extra room under there. I've been tempted to move the jack out from under the transmission and just bench press it around, but I don't know how much it weighs. My plan is to separate the transmission from the cross member bracket tomorrow. Thanks for the replies, I find them extremely helpful.

You need to remove the driveshaft from the rear end of the tranny, the splined slip yoke will slide right out & will go back in only one way. I think what you are calling a spindle bearing is the center support bearing (aka carrier bearing). Unbolt the rear driveshaft flange from the differential, you already have the center bearing loose from the support crossmember, so then slide the driveshaft backwards through the center bearing support until the splined shaft comes free of the tranny.
You need to remove the tranny mount that connects the tailshaft housing to the tranny support crossmember to give more room for the tranny to slide back.
You need to pull the tranny back just enough to for the bellhousing to clear the alignment studs, then rotate the tranny 90 degrees clockwise (this is so the bellhousing starter bulge will clear the tunnel sheet metal), then continue to pull it back until the tranny input shaft pulls free of the clutch, then drop the front down & forwards until the tail end will drop clear of the crossmember as described previously. Reverse to re-install. Assuming you tranny is 2wd you can probably bench it in & out if you wish, if it happens to be 4wd it's too heavy.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Wow, I never thought to question if he'd removed the driveshaft.

But it really makes it easier if the rear mount is removed from the bottom of the tailshaft.

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

I think he said he had the tranny loose from the drivetrain & engine but still hung up, so maybe removing the tranny mount will release it. If not then completing all the steps in the sequence will make things go a lot smoother. I just hope that if he did separate the driveshaft at the carrier bearing that he gets it back in proper phase when it goes back together.
BTW everything he's asked or had trouble with is all spelled out in that $22 FSM on e-bay I suggested.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

I think everybody should have the FSM. But I think sometimes it's easier to read instructions here than from it. The FSM can be a little intimidating to a newb, and often people who have "been there and done that" have good tips you won't find there.

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

I actually looked in the factory manual I have here, it gives 13 easy steps for this job.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

I neglected to remove the transmission from the crossmember bracket.I removed the entire bracket (3bolts). I think, after reading your input, that doing that will give me the clearance needed. Before disassembling the drive train, I marked the positions as to where the bolts go (because the drive train is weighted. Luv masta said something about the part that comes out of the back of the tranny only going back in one way. I'd be interested in knowing more about that. Thanks for your assistance. Much appreciated.

I think you mean "oldestisuzuist" said...the "Luv masta" is just his site rank.

If we're going to help, we really need to start using the right names for parts. He called it a "slip yoke" and that's what it is. It's impossible to put it back in the wrong way, if it goes in, it's correct. On the other hand, if you're mixing up two replies, he did say that if you separated the driveshaft at the carrier bearing, you need to get it back into "proper phase" when reassembling:Since you marked the positions, it sounds like you have that part right, as long as it goes back the way you marked it. That part is the "driveshaft".

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

Thank you all for your direction. To be sure, I don't know all the names for stuff. I was able to get the tranny out after separating the tail shaft from the cross member bracket ( I took everything off the cross member which seems necessary). The transmission itself weighs approx 60lbs so I didn't need a transmission jack, however I kept it underneath for added safety until I was ready to bench press it down. I managed to break a sensor attached to the wiring harness. The sensor is located on the upper driver's side behind the gear shift. If you have a name for that I would appreciate it The other sensor survived removal...so far.
Inspection of the flywheel shows no grooves or remarkable wear, but I will remove it and take it in for three reasons:
1) It's a bitch trying to get to, and..
2) If there is a groove or something it will mess up a new clutch
3) See #1 above.

I know of only one "sensor" (but I'd call it the backup light switch). If that's what you broke, I may have an extra that you can have. Just let me know.

I don't know of anything else that connects to the wiring harness. I'm guessing the other "sensor" might just be where the speedometer cable connects. Is it on the passenger's near the end of the tailshaft?

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

We will need the color of the wires for the sensor, there are actually 2 on your truck, the back up light switch and the 3&4 gear switch for the coasting rich circuit.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

In reading this string, I did give Luv Masta credit for oldestisuzuist (My apologies). I broke a screw-in electric "thingy" as mentioned above, it is connected with two red wires to the wiring harness. The other object is a screw-in, with a ball valve at the end and it is wired with two yellow wires to the harness. I am pretty sure that I have the speedometer cable identified. I'm thinking that the reverse light switch is a good call for the broken one as it is attached to the gear box portion of the bell housing. If the broken one is a reverse light switch, it seems like it would be easy to find one at a parts store (please correct me if I'm wrong). is it OK to clean the interior of the bell housing where the fork and throw-out bearing are located? Also, I drained the fluid from the gear box, but it looks as though there is a fluid leak as the tail shaft is dark. Is there a seal that I can replace back there?
I have a Haynes Chevy and GMC pickup manual that I'm reading, but it isn't specific to LUV's, so I just purchased one on Ebay and value your advice...I like working on the LUV.

I have a spare 5-speed in my workshop, and the backup light switch has red lead and a white one. I sure thought I had a spare switch from a transmission that I scrapped, but I couldn't find it. Yes. If you have oil in there, you should find the source. Are you replacing the rear main seal and the pilot bearing while it's all apart?Can you tell where it's coming from? The rear (tail shaft) seal can be replaced while the transmission is in, but it's easier while out. If you have oil on the housing, that's not likely where it came from. Are you even sure it's from the transmission?

Be sure to use motor oil in the transmission. Use the same viscosity chart you'd use for your engine. That's usually something like a 5w40 or 10w40, I think.

Jack

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'83 Isuzu P'up Diesel LS - Original Owner
JoeIsuzu@IsuzuPup.com
IsuzuPup.com

Looking at the wiring schemo, red does appear to be the back up switch. I doubt you will find one to buy new. I am trying to remember but it's possible that only the California trucks have the second switch for coasting richer.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Tailshaft seal is Timken #1987.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Federal spec trannies have two electrical switches: one on top just behind the bellhousing bulge is the 3rd/4th gear or CSR switch (which is part of the coasting richer system in the carb); one on the rear driver's side corner of the shifter tower (not the shifter tower cover) is the backup light switch. Cali-spec trannies don't have the CSR switch (the port has a plug instead) but do have a neutral safety switch in the shifter tower cover right above the backup light switch position. All are mechanical switches that screw in with a ball detent on the end and two wires. New backup light & neutral safety switches can be had, the CSR switch I can't find new. You'll have to determine which switch you broke based on location, but I think you broke the CSR switch, probably the best source for replacement is from someone's spare tranny.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Oldestisuzuist, the one that is broken is located where you have described the back-up light switch.

Here's a picture just to be sure.
If it's a backup light switch rockauto.com has them listed, someplace like Autozone probably does also, but probably not in stock locally.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Yep, it's #15, reverse light. Thanks, I looked all over the internet for that very diagram. You have been more than helpful,sir. Thanks.