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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:19 pm 
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Location: Sacramento, CA
Hi everyone :) I'm having some issues with my 79' stock LUV today.

PROBLEM: It won't idle, and hesitates at low RPM's. It ran perfectly before this issue. It will run quite well at 3500 RPM's or so. If I take the truck out of gear while coasting it will die, but if I leave it in gear no matter how slow it will still run until I'm almost at a stop so of course it stalls.

WHAT I'VE TRIED: Checked for some vacuum leaks, I'm going to check the EGR valve, leaks around the intake and base of carb. I was thinking of checking the fuel filter and try some fuel system cleaner. I've tried a new voltage regulator since I always have issues with those it seems.

SOLUTION?: Maybe it's a leak in the carb or intake. Maybe a fuel system thing, fuel pump and pressure? I'm not sure.


I would love to hear some advise on this issue. Thank you for any help in advance :)

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:14 am 
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 4:57 pm
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Location: Cornelius Ore
Make sure the anti dieseling (run on) solenoid has power to it and is working.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:37 pm 
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Thanks :) I'll try that. Maybe I have a short. The wires going to the carb have no current.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 10:04 am 
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Location: Covington WA
i just recently had the same problem with my truck. does it have the stock carb on it? i have a weber carb on my truck
and the problem was my power valve in the carb. so you might have a carb issue.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 10:21 am 
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Location: Wheatland wyoming
If you think it's a vacuum leak try spraying carb cleaner around hoses and such, the idle will chang when it sucks in cleaner. Gives you a general area to search. Of course if it won't idle at all this won't help. I have a stock 79 that acts up like that periodicly and I pull the carb and clean it with spray carb cleaner everywhere and that semms to work very well. good luck.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 7:17 pm 
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if it is a 32/36 dgav or dgev then here is the blown up view of the carb. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfi ... DGAVEV.pdf (part No. 93)

if the power valve goes out you will most likely here the carb back fire when it de-accelerate. it will also sputter when you hit it wide open throttle. what happens is the spring on the power valve gets worn so it need to be replaced. it sits right underneath the float once you start taking the carb apart. if you do that make sure the float seat is at the correct level.
if you rebuild the carb and it still has this problem, start doin some more tests on your ignition.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:03 pm 
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Thanks everyone :)

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:57 pm 
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Location: Loranger, Louisiana
Just a question here. Why wouldn't the carb work by disconnecting those solenoids and tuning it to run without using them? I too have problems with it idling and have to work the brake and gas at the same time and has become a habit. Once I come to a stop, usually a little tickle of the gas will let it idle after with no pressure on the gas pedal.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 2:29 am 
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Location: Cornelius Ore
The run on solenoid's very job is to close off the idle circuit in the carb so the engine will stop immediately and not (diesel) when you turn off the key. It has to have power with the key on to stay open and allow the engine to idle.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 1:22 am 
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Location: Sonora, CA
lol, yup. That's why when you have a short in your trailer lights, your truck dies at the stop signs. Same fuse runs the dash lights, blinkers, run-on soleinoid, and all your gauges.

Shorted trailer lights suck on these trucks... took me a month to figure out why I burned a fuse every time I hit a bump.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 11:43 pm 
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Location: Lexington, Washington
This is the closest thread I have found to tell me why it dies when I hit the brakes. Also, I need to see a few pictures of a properly hooked up 32/36 on a Cali emission 5-12 series motor. Why you may ask, I am burn a ton of fuel. Mind you, I drive like a grandpa. I don't think I have a few vacuum lines hooked and/or plugged up in the correct order. I have utilized the search function.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 8:28 am 
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Found the fix a couple weeks ago :). It was the big vacuum hose that hooks into the smog pump and runs along the top/front of the engine. It wasn't hooked into the correct place and also was leaking at the base of the hose sometimes.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:19 pm 
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Location: Lexington, Washington
Thanks buddy! It now doesn't die. But it kills the gas.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:30 pm 
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I'm glad I was able to help :)

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