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I can't seem to get these figured out, I can't seem to get the parking lights to work I've use the same setup p on my s10 but it doesn't have an individual turn signal it's also the brake light. I'm using a 12 volt led strip with a positive and negative, and I need to get 3 wires to the one for it to work. I'm hopeing to get some help from you guys thanks

Would a converter for trailer lights work? That converts the wiring down to 4 output wires.

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Three Amigos

yes i did get that far but i cant seem to find the right resistor to dim the lrd strips to the correct brightness

Try a ballast resitor for points. Chrysler style. They are tough and wll halve the voltage...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

V=I*R

To calculate what resistor you need, plug in the voltage drop you want and the total current of the LED's.

R=V/I

so i just found another problem i have 12.59 volts at the battery but i have 10.06 volts at the tails lights what would cause this drastic voltage drop?

a ground...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

There is a connector under the bed too, could be corroded and bad. Get it apart, brush out the dirt and crud, maybe try some de-oxit spray or something to clean it up.

Then make sure you have a good frame to bed ground too.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

Who is the manufacturer? Let me know and I can explain exactly how to hook it up. The two systems are not readily interchangeable. You could do some fancy work with a couple of relay's and if your dead set on using these then I can draw up an easy schematic for you to follow. Total cost of about $25 for the parts from your local auto parts.

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Fortune favors the well prepared!

This is typical in such a low voltage. Especially DC. When you test make sure the truck is running and make sure there are no other bulbs on at the same time. Also, make sure your tester is grounded well. If you have met all three of these conditions then you might have some degraded wiring from the brake pedal switch.

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Fortune favors the well prepared!

This formula is (just incase you aren't an electrician) resistance=volts / current or amperes
To really understand how "bright" you want your lamp then let's say you want it at 80% of it's current lumens output then you would take the rated wattage and multiply by .8. Let say the bulb is rated a 10 watts then multiply x .8 and you would now want it to be 8 watts instead of 10. Now we do our first equation to find out the amps which is W=E*I So we would solve for I which if we have 8 watts and 12.5v then the current is .64 amps. Then we can see the resistance across the circuit is R=E/I so 12.5/.64=19.53 ohms. Now find the original resistance across the circuit (I'll save us some time). 15.625 ohms is the original. Subtract this from the 19.53 and you get roughly 3.91 ohms. Since your going to be pumping at least 8 watts per bulb and you don't want to have to mess with this anymore then you'll need a 10 watt resistor which is about the size of the ballast resistor on the ignition. Do not use one from your ignition as it is probably the wrong ohms. All this being said you probably won't be able to do this (for the couple bucks it would cost for the resistor it would be a cool experiment) as the led's are sensitive to how much current they receive. It would probably be better just to exchange for the correct ones. If you did, however, decide to go this route then make sure you put the resistor by the led it is controlling so it doesn't put resistance further back in the circuit(in case you want to put a relay or something that would need the full available current in the circuit).

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Fortune favors the well prepared!