LUVTruck.com

This should clear some things up perhaps. This was taken from http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/tech/vie ... hp?t=24450 just to give proper credit, but the discussion there WILL confuse things as it is going into great detail on custom G180 engine building.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

So I'd want to have it on the 6 correct? I had it close to that before, but now it's at 16... Deff need to change it now lol

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Be sure you disconnect the vacuum advance and plug it when you set the timing.

Ditto to what drummer said. It will be WAY off if you time it with the vacuum advance hooked up.

I usually ran mine a bit on the high side like 12 or so. But it will ping on cheap gas that way, especially if the EGR valve isn't hooked up or working right.

At 16 you probably have some loss of power, and climbing a hill or accelerating it makes a rattling sound? That rattle is ping/detonation.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

Awesome. Thanks guys! And thank you 800xl, you've always helped me out here over the years :-)

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Should I be plugging the side connecting to the distributor or the side connecting to the carb?

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Carb. You want the vacuum advance disconnected from the distributor so you can get an accurate reading. You want the vacuum line to the carb plugged so it won't run like shit while you are doing it. After you get it set, hook it back up.

Good, I did it the right way then.. lol.

thanks for the quick reply.

I'm thinking about heading over to a junkyard to find a luv with a radiator, and if I can't find one, I'll end up getting my current one repaired and re cored at a radiator shop for around $130. Then hopefully my overheating woes will be done.

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Be careful with a junkyard radiator. A lot of the time they're plugged up worse than the one you're replacing.

I haven't read this whole thread. Did you try a radiator flush?

Not with anything other than water. If that's what you mean. A friend of mine says he lives by radiator flushing fluid, would that break up enough of the stuff clogged in there? I guess it wouldn't hurt to try it out.

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i have a buddy that works in a radiator shop who can probably do it free or cheap, he was going to do mine but i need a different one for my 4.3

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what's up again joe!

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Can't hurt.

I'll go pick some up in the next few days and try it out.

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What do you guys think of just replacing the water pump? It's easy to get to, and $20 at the parts store. When my radiator cap is off, I was told by folks here (and by a friend) that the water should be visibly moving. It doesn't really move.

What is it, like 5 bolts to remove it once you've taken off the belt? I don't even think I'll need to remove the radiator.

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Removed and examined the water pump, it spins pretty freely, there's a little resistance to it, but nothing the fan wouldn't spin right out. The inside looks decent, like it's had years of water running through it, kind of a rust color, but no decay or anything. I'm going to head to the parts store tomorrow and compare the resistance and see if it is comparable, or if it presents an issue, as I've never torn into the truck alone before. Also took out the radiator, so I'm going to have it checked out.

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Water pumps tend to fail by leaking. They still pump but puke water out around the shaft or through a weep hole near the shaft.

If water isn't moving I'd suspect either the thermostat isn't opening or the radiator is clogged. But I can't say I've really noticed a lot of "movement" looking down into the rad on a LUV. It is fairly likely the thermostat is the problem if you've never changed it, but the rad could easily be clogged up too.

Also you can get a little cooling boost in a pinch by turning the heater to hot and cranking it up. Just before I got the rad cleaned on my 76 the heater was just enough to keep it from overheating in the summer. Miserable hot stuck in traffic, but at least the motor held up that way.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

You should see water flow with the cap off after the thermostat opens. Also a plugged radiator will not show much flow. When it gets hot does running the heater cool it down? Do you have a fan clutch or is the fan a solid mount to the pulley?



EDIT, looks like I posted while 800 did

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Yeah, I think we were channeling the same brainwave too.

I did think of one more thing to look at. Make sure the lower radiator hose isn't collapsing when the truck is running. It would have to be really bad to collapse and shut off flow, but its one more thing to check.

I really think your thermostat isn't opening or your radiator is just mostly clogged. Those are the two things that always caused the bulk of my overheating issues in the past.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

I haven't had any leaks, so it seems like it's good? ha. No loss of fluid either.

Changed the thermostat recently as well




and to answer both the questions of the heater, it doesn't visibly change when I turn the heat on full blast. I'll take a picture of the assembly. There's the part that comes out from the water pump, then on that are the 2 different size pulleys, and the fan is attached to those via 4 bolts. Not sure if that's a clutch or not.

And in regards to your recent post, it doesn't look like it's collapsing, it's not kinked or anything like that while it's running.\


edited again, there's no clutch. I google searched what one looks like and there's nothing like that. Just the 2 metal pulley things.

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