Well, I checked the pump out and it was acting like it was getting intermittent voltage. Under the hood, there was an inline fuse that was creating this problem. Bypassed the fuse and the pump no longer worked. Tested, retested, and tested again and it wouldn't budge. So, I went and got another 2.5-3 gpm pump and it works great. But, it still does the same thing as it did before. In each gear it's gutless when the accelerator is applied and almost cuts out completely with the pedal to the floor. First gear is o.k. until you get to the end of it, and then it does the same thing as the rest of the gears. Removing the fuel line from the carb and turning the key to the on position puts out plenty of fuel so I think the pump is no longer a factor in the diagnosis. Should there be problems with performance just idling in the driveway when you remove the vacuum lines in various places? The vac line coming off the distributor when removed does nothing to the idling and neither does covering the holes. I haven't checked out the points yet as you suggested 800, but when I get a chance to work on it again, that will be the first order of business. Thanks guys for the help so far. I know we can get this figured out.
Oh, I almost forgot:
800xl wrote:
Normally Webers from the kit designed for the LUV don't need much for jet changes. You can follow the adjustment procedure at
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/c ... _best_.htm and that should tell you if you are very far off on jetting. I doubt that is the case though. It would have to be way off to be having a noticeable effect on performance.
Because it's been awhile since I purchased this carb, I can't remember if I bought it specific to the LUV or not. Are all 32/36 weber carbs the same, or are they all different and designed for specific purposes? I also dialed in the carb according to the directions in your link. Hmmmm.......does my truck know I'm more of a Ford guy and it's retaliating against me?