LUVTruck.com

Does anyone know if an LS1 will drop into a Chevy Luv? I have kept up with the Wicked Mayhem build, and as everyone knows, he built his own frame. The ac compressor is on the bottom left (passenger side) of the engine, very close to where the frame is. Ls engines have been out there since 1997, 15 years, and 4.8 and 5.3s can be bought very reasonably with all the accessories and computer for around $800 in my area. Some of the 4.8s have 280 hp which should put me in the mid to high 13s. Respectable for a little street truck, and I can always upgrade later.

_________________
I want to be different like everybody else.

Yes it is very possible to put a LS1 in a Chevy Luv. I am currently running a LS1 in my truck, I used the basic Hooker header V8 frame mounts and paired them with a set of Trans-Dapts LS1 swap mounts. What the Trans Dapt mounts basically do is convert the engine mount from the LS1 style four bolt pattern to the old SBC 3 bolt pattern moving them to the positioning to basically the same position as a Gen 1 SBC. The transmission tunnel will require some additional clearance compared to a basic Gen 1 V8 swap. I am not using AC so not sure what the clearance would be with that. Also using coilover shocks instead of the stock torsion bars so you may run into exhaust issues but shouldn't be to difficult to resolve. I believe Wicked Mayhem started going this direction with his build originally before completely redesigning his trucks chassi.

Heres some images of the engine mounts

_________________

Nice blueprint!

SRAD

_________________
My Wife is faster than you think you are

That is a nice diagram. As far as motormounts go I think I'll go with ACE. He has both. The transmission tunnel looks like it will have to be enlarged. I may just make a new one and weld it in there. Also have to build another crossmember, which should be no problem. I've thought about building new reinforced shock towers for coilovers, but don't want to if I don't have to. Here in south Texas, for a street truck, ac is a must. If the compressor lands somewhere along the frame, I can just build the frame out a little, if it's there on the crossover, that might cause me to go with a Gen 1 engine and trans. This is my daily driver and occasional racer. Do you have any pics of your mounting setup, or maybe a video on youtube. I would really like to see your truck.

_________________
I want to be different like everybody else.

Hrmmm since your aiming for AC and using truck parts you may want to try this pulley setup I found on the S10 Forums.


http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/new-guy-ls1-4wd-twin-turbo-463218/

This guy has basically place a tensioner down where the stock AC was moving the AC pump up top where the idler pulley once was.

You could always check out some cleaner set ups with some pulley kits out there, however they could be quite pricey.

Here is a set I recently used on a lowered 67 Chevy II Nova. Company makes some good product.
http://www.protouringsuperstore.com/Pro ... de=WAWA014

_________________

BlackLuv80 You Da Man on this one.
Looks like lots of folks are having the same problem with the low ac compressor and altenator.
Two grand for pulleys is kinda pricey in my book. Looks like the brackets in the pic were made in someones shop.
They did a nice job on them.
Followed the link and read the whole thread. Awesome build, Awesome shop.

_________________
I want to be different like everybody else.

The plate shown will install the LSx engine bellhousing flange, approx 1 1/4" forward of a stock SB engine. The bolt holes to mount it to the LSx block should be .400 as the stock mounting bolts are 10mm.
The c/c of the top bolts of the SB engine cushion is 3.48", 1.74" per side. They should be tapped to 3/8" x16. The tapered LSx bolt hole is between the SB cushion bolts. Uses a 45* taper, different than american bolts. If making a plate be sure to get it just below flush, use a bolt to check. The top to bottom bolt is 3.100" Where as the LSx top to bottom is approx 3.0625" (78mm).
These plates need to be 3/8" thick so that there will be sufficient thread for proper strenth on the 3/8" x 16 bolts. You could weld a piece behind each hole to accomodate the needed increase, if using this offset forward.
When moving the engine forward with this adapter, definintely watch out for oil pan to crossmember clearance.
If you plan to lower the truck use the Cadillac CTS-v or Holley oil pan. CTS is allmost 7" deep and the Holley is almost 6" deep. The truck pan is over 8" deep. All come back before dropping to sump. Use appropiate oil pickup tube and windage tray.
If you are not using a transmission that came with the engine, you may need a special flywheel or spacer.

_________________
The light at the end of the tunnel, may just be a train coming!

Thanks Old Rob. Moving the engine forward 1 3/4 is something I wanted to stay away from because of radiator, fan and pulley clearance. However, if the heater hoses and ebrake can stay that would solve some problems. I'm hoping with a little adjustment the LS1 can be shoehorned in there. I can't remember if you are with with ACE or not, but that's how I'm planning to go. I already did the Hooker mounts, and didn't like the way you are limited to their measurements.

_________________
I want to be different like everybody else.

The LS motor is slightly shorter overall, so it should end up with nearly the same clearance in the front...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Thanks mytmouz. I did a lot of research and bought several books on LS engines, and had all that information. Hurricane Ike put 18 inches of salt water in my house and destroyed it all.

_________________
I want to be different like everybody else.