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 Post subject: Dizzy installed wrong?
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 7:45 pm 
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I have an 87 isuzu pup 1.9L and It seems that my truck runs and idles better with the timing retarded. My concern is that its retarded way past the 0 mark. 2 weeks ago i replaced the engine with a new one and when attempting to time it to 6 deg btdc, it was sputtering and backfiring. I kept retarding the timing and it ran smoother.
Did i install the dizzy wrong?

Marcos


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:34 am 
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amininamedsue wrote:
I have an 87 isuzu pup 1.9L and It seems that my truck runs and idles better with the timing retarded. My concern is that its retarded way past the 0 mark. 2 weeks ago i replaced the engine with a new one and when attempting to time it to 6 deg btdc, it was sputtering and backfiring. I kept retarding the timing and it ran smoother.
Did i install the dizzy wrong?

Marcos

hmm... maybe the carb needs a bit of an adjustment? carb tune and timing make a big difference in running.. i would think if it can turn over and run it would be wired right.. how do you have it wired up? both on coil?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 1:36 pm 
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I have been trying to adjust the weber but im still having difficulty with it. It throws out a little bit of black smoke and fuel odor is very noticeable. I tried to adjust the mixture screw with a vacuum gauge plugged in to the intake near the valve cover and got to 19 on the vacuum gauge. It still sputters a lillte bit. The dizzy vacuum advance is hooked up to the carb and not the intake. I dont know if that makes a difference. I have deleted all emmissions and plugged them. Im still at a loss as in why it runs better with the timing way retarded. My mpg is very low. What do you mean by both on the coil?

Marcos


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:23 pm 
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for both on coil i meant the distributor wires. i have an 85 pup distributor on my luv and i wired it up with both wires to my coil.
if you can smell a lot of fuel in the exhaust i would set the distributor to 6 btdc and adjust the carb for the best running you can get at idle..
it shouldnt make a difference between being on the manifold or carb for running since vacuum should be identical at both.

my weber took me a while to get dialed in. im sure i dont still have it 100% dead on.. little adjustments at a time make all the difference. keep the dizzy at 6 btdc and spend some time on the weber. we are running almost an identical engine.. weber/electronic dizzy, i had a lot more trouble with the weber than the dizzy it hasnt given me any problems since i set it the first time.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 6:02 pm 
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I don't do stockers, but a sbc will do that if it is a tooth off on the install...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 7:30 pm 
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Love4theluv yes i am running the 2 wires to the coil. When attempting to set timing at 6 btdc im still having trouble adjusting the carb. For some reason it sputters at 8, 6 or 4 btdc but when retarding it way past 0 it idles a little better..
Mytmouse, what do you mean jumping a tooth? And how would i fix that?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 7:31 pm 
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Does the distributorhave a gear with teeth? Remember, all I ever do with stockers is remove them, so I don't remember...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:56 am 
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No it doesnt have teeth. Dont really know how to explain it but the tip is is where it can only be put in one way. If i try putting in the other way is doesnt allow the dizzy body to completely seal with the block.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 10:58 am 
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Then disregard my posts. Sorry...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:45 pm 
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Thanks anyways mytmouz. I really don't want to take it to a mechanic and have them charge me an arm and a leg for something that I am overseeing. Anybody else have a suggestion of what it can be??


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:04 pm 
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are you positive you are looking at 6 btdc and not 6 atdc? would explain why it gets better past the "0" mark if that was the case.

try setting the carb to its factory setting, put dizzy at 6 btdc and try to iron out the carb tune so you can be sure your not running really rich and just having carb issues. mine was running like crap for a while until i got the weber tuned right.
http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 2:47 pm 
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love4theluv, maybe your right, I will retry to bring back the dizzy to 6 btdc and tune the carb as per the weber carb setup and start from scratch.
Marcos


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 10:33 am 
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So I went ahead and moved the timing back to 6 dtdc and tried to tune the weber per the instructions i did as follows:

-Screwed out the idle speed screw until it doesn't come in contact with the throttle lever and made sure my linkage is good, -Then I screwed it in until it touch the lever. Then I turned it in 1 full turn.
-The mixture screw 2 full turns out. (The instructions said to start the vehicle but it wouldn't start)
-I went and screwed in the mixture screw 1/4 of a turn to have it running.
-I went ahead and screwed it in 1/2 a turn until it started to run bad
-Then I backed out 1/4 of a turn, which seem to be my best. So in total I screwed in the mixture screw 1/2 a turn from when backing it out 2 full turns.
-I then screwed in my idle speed screw 1/4. My idle speed screw is 1 1/4 turns total.

Well unfortunately the truck sputters and lacks power with 6 BTDC :(

I retarded my timing to what it looks like 6 or 8 deg ATDC and it runs better.

Before I took the dizzy off my old engine, when #1 piston was at TDC, the rotor was pointing to the #1 on the dizzy cap and spark plug wire. When I installed the new dizzy, I went ahead and placed my #1 piston on TDC and noticed the rotor point to the #4 on the dizzy cap. To make sure I wasn't on the exhaust stroke, when putting the #1 on TDC, I had a buddy of mine crank the engine, spark plug off and my thumb over the spark plug hole, felt the air push my thumb and from what I have read, I was at the compression stroke on TDC. Since my #1 piston was TDC but rotor was pointing to #4 on dizzy cap, I put my spark plug wires to follow that order.

Is my dizzy 180 degs off?
Where the dizzy shaft goes in, is that 180 degs off?

Sorry for the long novel guys but this is getting me confused and frustrated.

Marcos.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 10:51 am 
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amininamedsue wrote:
So I went ahead and moved the timing back to 6 dtdc and tried to tune the weber per the instructions i did as follows:

-Screwed out the idle speed screw until it doesn't come in contact with the throttle lever and made sure my linkage is good, -Then I screwed it in until it touch the lever. Then I turned it in 1 full turn.
-The mixture screw 2 full turns out. (The instructions said to start the vehicle but it wouldn't start)
-I went and screwed in the mixture screw 1/4 of a turn to have it running.
-I went ahead and screwed it in 1/2 a turn until it started to run bad
-Then I backed out 1/4 of a turn, which seem to be my best. So in total I screwed in the mixture screw 1/2 a turn from when backing it out 2 full turns.
-I then screwed in my idle speed screw 1/4. My idle speed screw is 1 1/4 turns total.

Well unfortunately the truck sputters and lacks power with 6 BTDC :(

I retarded my timing to what it looks like 6 or 8 deg ATDC and it runs better.

Before I took the dizzy off my old engine, when #1 piston was at TDC, the rotor was pointing to the #1 on the dizzy cap and spark plug wire. When I installed the new dizzy, I went ahead and placed my #1 piston on TDC and noticed the rotor point to the #4 on the dizzy cap. To make sure I wasn't on the exhaust stroke, when putting the #1 on TDC, I had a buddy of mine crank the engine, spark plug off and my thumb over the spark plug hole, felt the air push my thumb and from what I have read, I was at the compression stroke on TDC. Since my #1 piston was TDC but rotor was pointing to #4 on dizzy cap, I put my spark plug wires to follow that order.

Is my dizzy 180 degs off?
Where the dizzy shaft goes in, is that 180 degs off?

Sorry for the long novel guys but this is getting me confused and frustrated.

Marcos.



frustration is totally understandable it took me 2 carb swaps and a few ignition parts before i got mine running really good, i have had the carb off at least 20 times :lol: . its possible that your dizzy is set backwards... try swapping the plug wires to the opposite and see if that fixes it for you.
the carb adjustment sounds about right. not sure exactly where mine is as but i know its within a half turn or so of the "factory"
where are you located?
also with the weber was it on the engine when you got it or did you pick it up seperately?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:02 am 
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Yeah I have been frustrated since I got this little truck, but for some reason, I dont want to let it go :lol: I live in Las Cruces, NM, about 45 minutes from El Paso, TX. The weber, I bought brand new from Redline. Before I changed out the engine, I probably drove the truck with the weber no more than 10 times. I thought about the wires been backwards so swapped them and it wouldnt start. It would crank but not start. I placed them back to how I have them, and it starts right away. Oh and the truck has an Accel Performance Coil, brand new wires, and spark plugs.

I am learning alot from this engine but for some reason I just cant get it tuned right.
Marcos


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:15 am 
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hmm... im still stuck on how it can be running atdc but not before? just doesnt make sense to me :lol:
how does it run with its current setting? if you have it at 6 degrees with the carb at its current tune at 6 before and 6 after? can you rev it beyond idle without it backfiring or sputtering? my test when working on tuning was to set the timing and carb rev it to 3500 or so to see if it carried up smoothly.

are you checking for the before top dead center closer to the passenger side or driver side of the 0 marking of the block?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:35 am 
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Running it on 6 btdc, it lacks performance and sputters alot, when running it how I have it right now atdc (according to my timing gun) it runs smoother and does not lack power. How I have it right now, im somewhere around 6 or 8 atdc, I cant tell since there are no numbers beyond the 0 mark on the driver side. I dont have any problems at start up or when I am driving, besides a little bit of black smoke. What concerns me is that its off when timing it. It should be set to 6 btdc but something is wrong.

Where the dizzy shaft goes in the block, can that be off 180 deg?
Does the dizzy being off, does that affect the engine burning the fuel which would result in black smoke?

Marcos


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:23 pm 
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amininamedsue wrote:

Where the dizzy shaft goes in the block, can that be off 180 deg?
Does the dizzy being off, does that affect the engine burning the fuel which would result in black smoke?

Marcos


i would think if it was 180 off a plug wire switch would make it work as if it was the other way around since it can only go one way or the other and doesnt have teeth to jump.
maybe there is another underlying problem you havent come across yet or just havent quite got to 100% fixed, black smoke is commonly from a rich air to fuel mix so could be a problem with your carb tune still and not the timing. try adjusting the mix screw about 1/8th turn at a time...
when i tuned mine i did it by the book, it still wasnt quite perfect so i started working on tuning the carb by 1/8th turns until i got it where i liked it. did some back and forth between the screws to get it smoothed out. it is tedious but the webers run great on these motors once you get them dialed in i havent had to touch mine since i got it working right

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 4:23 pm 
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I will go ahead and try to tune the carb again. Thanks for the help love4theluv. Last time I took my truck to a mechanic for a quote on a clutch replacement, the mechanic told me it would be $400. I did the work my self and saved $300. When I just got the truck and was having problems with it, another mechanic told me to put the old Hitachi carb. It seems With my luck i will probably have to find someone else look at the weber carb and tune it if it continues to run rich.

Marcos


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:37 pm 
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amininamedsue wrote:
I will go ahead and try to tune the carb again. Thanks for the help love4theluv. Last time I took my truck to a mechanic for a quote on a clutch replacement, the mechanic told me it would be $400. I did the work my self and saved $300. When I just got the truck and was having problems with it, another mechanic told me to put the old Hitachi carb. It seems With my luck i will probably have to find someone else look at the weber carb and tune it if it continues to run rich.

Marcos

the good thing about the webers is how easy they are to get jets for you can get them pretty much anywhere and there is a lot of info online about them.. and any shop can work on a carb can tune a weber. if you cant get it to run right by tuning it via the 2 screws it may be jetted wrong in which case you should have no problem locating the right jets and someone with the info to tell you what they would be.
the old hitachi carb should never be used as anything but a paper weight, .. which is one of my old ones current duty :lol: keeps the bills from flying away

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