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Need some advice. I have a 80 stock luv with a weber. This is my daily driver. No other modifications besides altering my intake manifold by sealing off the emissions port. I do have a good Hitachi and another unaltered manifold when it comes to smog time.
Over the summer, I noticed that I have a head gasket leak somewhere near the #3 cylinder visible on the exhaust side. Its coolant, not oil. There is no coolant leaking into the oil pan, and there is pressure in the radiator even after it cools down. Other than a possible head gasket leak, the engine runs great. Good oil pressure, and it stays relatively cool, even in the summer with the A/C on......
I decided to retorque the head bolts. When I pulled the valve cover off, the allen head bolts were completely filled up with gunk. Dirty nasty gunk just about everywhere. This lead me to my delima. Maybe its time to rebuild this very reliable little motor before I have a complete breakdown. The head has to come off no matter what I decide, and there are other gaskets that have failed.
My delima is whether or not to do a in-frame, or pull then engine and replace everything. Smart money is pull the engine, and replace everything accessible, clutch, pressure plate, clutch bearing, rod/main bearings, rings and timing chain. Of coarse this more than doubles the cost of a simple head job.
Please tell me there are lots of success stories with just getting by with a simple head job..........Wrong time of the year to start a $600 engine rebuild, but I have access to my wife's car for about a month, and now is the time to do it.

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Either pull it now, spend the money and do it right, or be prepared to redo it shortly...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

Personally, I would do everything at once. I worked in a machine shop for 3yrs and seen a lot of motors were they did just the top end and the bottom end went out shortly after, and visa versa. Plus itts just a couple more $$ to get a master engine kit.

Rebuild it.Find a reputable machine shop.See if they can pressure test the head and dye glow test the head for cracks.I would suggest new seats and valve guides in the head..also if they can Vitron seals for the valves instead of the umbrella seals...they don't leak like the umbrella seals. I would also ask if the finish the cylinders with a plateau finish. Spend a little more money on rings if you can get better rings..but probably not available on the Luv motor. Also I would recommend instead of the screw in brass plugs for the coolant in the side of the block put petcocks in..if you need to flush the block they make it a lot easier. I the crank doesn't need turning have them polish it anyway..good insurance.
I have a degree in Automotive Machine!

Yea, kinda already convinced myself this is the smartest move. Smog test is a little over a year away, and reluctant to spend more money on it to have it fail. Most emission parts are broken, and unable to replace (mixture control valve, egr pipe, thermo vacuum valve, egr bypass........). I think I might have access to a 5 speed out of a 87 mitsubishi pickup. Has anyone heard if this will work with the G180 engine?

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

I decided to rebuild. I got the engine out today, and will start to break it down tomorrow. New gasket kit, timing chain kit and clutch kit ordered. Looks like I will need a new flywheel, or at least a starter ring. I have a machinist set up for the head work, and bottom end. Man I hope there are no suprises. Wrong time of year to buy pistons.........

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

When you buy a new flywheel get one for the G200Z 1.9L engine. It is the same one used in 1.8L 4x4 trucks. It will allow you to upsize from the stock 1.8L 2wd 8" clutch to the 8-1/2" clutch used in 1.8L 4x4's, 1.9L & 2.3L 2x4's & 4x4's through '95.
Only Isuzu trannies will bolt to your engine, use the gas 5sp from '86 - '95 2wd trucks with the 2.3L engine.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

Already ordered the stock 7 7/8" clutch. I am going to have to buy a new flywheel. I have about 20% of the starter ring gears worn down. Block and other engine parts came back from wash tank with no problems. Machinist has the head and crank. No problems so far. It was a head gasket failure by one of the water jackets that caused the white discoloration on the side of the engine. The machinist also told me pistons and rods looked good enough to reuse. So far, so good.

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

I rebuilt my '77 a couple of summers ago in august. I'm very happy I did. The engine will come out of there in less than a half a day. Break it down the rest of the day and next day get it off to the machine shop. I got most all of my bearings gaskets etc. from eBay. You have to know the condition of the crankshaft before you buy the mains and rod bearings----that will tell you what size over standard the bearings should be. Get a rebuilt head complete with ground valves seals etc. Buy new oversize pistons and rings (they came as a complete set for me). Have the head guy make sure there are new bushings for the camshaft. Call around to get your best machineing prices as they vary. New clutch, Pressure plate throw-out and pilot bushing. Be sure to mic the transmission pilot shaft when you order the new bushing, I didn't and got the wrong one--different size--but in the end the sell accepted it back for a refund. The Machine shop should tell you what condition the cylinder walls are( out of round, scored) and thus you'll know what size the pistons and rings should be. There are a lot of sellers out there that are selling 'standard size' rings/pistons/ bearings but they are only good for a new standard eng;ine. Won't do you any good if your block has more than 20,000 miles on it. Go at it!!! You'll have fun and be proud of the way the new LUV runs. I know I am......Don

Started assembly today. Crank and block mic'ed to stock specs. Machine shop ordered standard bearings and rings. Had the head pressure tested, and planed. Had the crank polished. New water pump and flywheel are in the mail. Putting it all back together stock. So far, price for rebuild is less than $700. It might be a gutless little engine, but its pretty durable.

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Its done. Motor purrs like a kitten. Starting break-in slowly. Have a small coolant leak I cant find. Its amazing how much better this engine runs without the smog gear on it. If I cant get it smogged next year, be looking for this little truck for sale outside of California.

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Re torque the head bolts!

Tragic engine failure. See classified

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1980 Luv Mikado 2wd stock
1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4

Don't just give up, it's a small set back. Pull it out and see what happened.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?