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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 2:48 pm 
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I am so frustrated right now and really need someone to visually :eugeek inspect their Hitachi DCP 340 carb to please help me out. sorry for a long post in advance but this is what happened

we knew the Hitachi DCP 340 carb in my 1980 chevy luv 4x4 (first sold in Calif.) needed the carb rebuilt and the float was having problems.

(This carb has NEVER been opened and redone in its 30 year life of running so every single item inside would be straight from the factory dealers lot.)
a neighbor said he would adjust the float because it was mis adjusted and i was having problems with fuel level- i was dying out every few seconds after starting it.

He took the carb and the rebuild kit and was going to "help" us as he is a mechanic and has a shop.

we received the carb back and according to him said

1) your carb had parts missing on it- but he had some of the parts so he used his old ones.
2) my float needed replaced

he also took it upon himself to replace my sight glass from a hitachi carb from his forklift that he said had them on it but while the sight glass was clear and easily viewable, he didnt even offer my original one back and became confrontational about me wanting my original sight glass back (still working on getting it back)

when we hooked it up after we got it back, and we know all hook ups are perfect as many times we have put on/taken off

as soon as i turned the key over the engine sounded like it was screaming in rpm. It scared the bejezus out of me- never heard it that high

we were able to adjust it to a lower idle and it basically sounds like a dying cow,
http://youtu.be/0YaEkqf12CQ
yes he is adjusting screws in this video but the sound its making is clearest in this video

so jumping forward i found the carb kit directions last night and went over every single thing i could think of,
i had posted the other day about check ball placements and it was bugging me still. well i really think the idiot took parts from a DCH and put them in a DCP

(your carb had parts missing on it- but he had some of the parts so he used his old ones.)

according to directions (he had this as well) there is only ONE check ball and its nylon.


MINE has TWO!! i never had the carb EVER opened so i dont know what has been done to it changed wise with his old parts. i am noticing a discrepancy between the dcp 340 carb image and my dcp 340 carb on the truck

part # 65, and 66 are on mine however part number 67 the upside down crayon tip looking weight is NOT on my carb but part 65 and 66 from a DCH 340 a weight with a check ball

http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo71 ... fparts.jpg

there are TWO checkballs on a DCH,
DCP shows 1 check ball

bottom line is my carb screwed up. i know the neighbor wont admit to it if it is, so can someone please visually inspect one?



http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo71 ... LTERED.jpg

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:08 pm 
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Are you sure he gave you back your carburetor? It sounds like he just switched yours and the one he had.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:31 pm 
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Ben wrote:
Are you sure he gave you back your carburetor? It sounds like he just switched yours and the one he had.


at first we thought the same thing so as we checked everything that we had seen characteristically or done to things (cleaning and inspecting) we noticed the smear of grease we had put on the anti diesel cylinder was there but the spring in good condition carefully put back by us was mangled like it was jammed into it
http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo71 ... spring.jpg
which we have removed as well as the pin for now
hopefully i can find a replacement

as far as we can visually tell its my carb BUT he thought things were missing off mine and had parts. he had printed out his own directions (dch 340) so we think he thought it should have been a dch when we have told him several times its clearly a dcp.

so if he changed it to be dch like with dch parts that he thought were missing but never was because of the difference in carbs, could this be giving me this problem?
would the dch not be compatible for a 1980 chevy luv?

my dad wants it to be taken for diagnostic testing at a shop but if the truck carb (now) was altered, its a waste of money for it until i know for sure the carb is suppose to be like that

whats sad is tags and insurance are paid but the tags wont be released till i have a smog that passes and from what i have heard i am ONLY allowed the stock dcp 340 carb in it.

i know for diagnostics testing they could hook up a carb that works then focus on the carb its supposed to have but legally in callif i guess i am unable to have valid registration without THAT specific carb.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:29 pm 
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Most smog shops will not check the carb for numbers, if the stock air filter fits I bet they wont look any farther. I know of people passing with a weber with the stock air filter set up.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:46 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
Most smog shops will not check the carb for numbers, if the stock air filter fits I bet they wont look any farther. I know of people passing with a weber with the stock air filter set up.


........ and if they do im screwed :( lol
i got off the phone with royze carbs and told them what happened. if its the wrong hitachi guts in the carb on it they said its not compatible and could be why i have this problem,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YaEkqf1 ... e=youtu.be

they also said i should have a dch by their records, so now i am confussed and trying to find wtf (pardon my french) is supposed to be on it by vin number

this was how we had it before the neighbor took the carb
http://www.youtube.com/user/tashadirect ... zgwyHxYR1U
it wasnt great but it wasnt a dying cow. he was testing something on this video but in general no cows were dying.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:58 pm 
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You dont have many options, buy a rebuilt one with a warrenty, used one that will go bad soon or try a weber. Good luck

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:13 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
You dont have many options, buy a rebuilt one with a warrenty, used one that will go bad soon or try a weber. Good luck


i want too do the weber thing..... just dont want to get caught.
we are thinking of royze in california to rebuild it, i told them whats gone on.
hoping i dont have a problem getting the original sight glass tomorrow from the idiot neighbor.
shops have me listed as a DCH so i am so confused whats supposed to be on my 80 luv 4x4 with ac
DCP or DCH
if anyone knows or would know by vin please let me know

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:42 pm 
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Ok so I looked up all of my old data books that I could find on the Luv. Also some leftover carb kit data sheets I have. 72-73 used DRJ 340, 74 used DRJ 340C, 75-78 used DCP 340, 79-80 used DCH 340. The C in DCP,DCH means automatic choke model. Looks like you should have a DCH model for yours, so now what? Someone maybe repair/exchanged the carb early on in its life?
Anyhow the DRJ, and DCP models have one input check ball in the accelerator pump well and a needle,weight, and spring in the output port under a screw cap. The DCH model has two check balls, one in the accelerator pump well and another spring loaded ball in the output port. Looks like they went from a needle thing to a ball in the later models.
I doubt if the the ball being plastic or metal makes much difference. They may have just went with a cheaper material later. Anyhow you may be really confused by now, sorry, but that is what I have found though.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:58 pm 
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egg wrote:
Ok so I looked up all of my old data books that I could find on the Luv. Also some leftover carb kit data sheets I have. 72-73 used DRJ 340, 74 used DRJ 340C, 75-78 used DCP 340, 79-80 used DCH 340. The C in DCP,DCH means automatic choke model. Looks like you should have a DCH model for yours, so now what? Someone maybe repair/exchanged the carb early on in its life?
Anyhow the DRJ, and DCP models have one input check ball in the accelerator pump well and a needle,weight, and spring in the output port under a screw cap. The DCH model has two check balls, one in the accelerator pump well and another spring loaded ball in the output port. Looks like they went from a needle thing to a ball in the later models.
I doubt if the the ball being plastic or metal makes much difference. They may have just went with a cheaper material later. Anyhow you may be really confused by now, sorry, but that is what I have found though.


not confused at all by your answer. i am supposed to pick up the carb sight glass tomorrow. so hopefully the string of numbers will shed some light and at this point PRAY that THAT never was replaced :smt017
according to a rebuild shop one model will work the other one wont be compatible

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:04 am 
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Since the carb rebuilds go south most of the time I would only have it rebuilt by someone who would install it on my truck, that way when you pick it up you know it works. I wouldnt be surprised if you get a rebuild and install it yourself you would have to return it for repair.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:19 am 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
Since the carb rebuilds go south most of the time I would only have it rebuilt by someone who would install it on my truck, that way when you pick it up you know it works. I wouldnt be surprised if you get a rebuild and install it yourself you would have to return it for repair.


very good point we have been thinking that as well.
hard when your in a tiny area that there really isnt to much of a choice, one place told me 400 rebuilt and if he had to get a new one (impossible) its 1200.

staring at the diagrams it looks like dcp on fuel inlet curves and ons is straight while it looks like on dch the may both curve. ........... just thinking too much

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:14 am 
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from the ratsun site forum
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/35585-dcp-340-carb/

i recieved this for a response, oddly i believe if this is the set up its supposed to be that this "missing" ball could be the cause for what was told to me i have a vacuum leak somewhere by a auto shop in town that i called and explained the sound the truck was making -
*******

I believe there are only 3 balls in the carb.

2 steel balls are used in the accelerator pump system. One, spring loaded, below the piston to prevent pressure from flowing back into the float chamber on the down stroke but lifts up to allow gas in on the up stroke. The other steel ball is spring loaded on the injector nozzle in the primary barrel. It is pushed up out of the way by the pressure from the pump to let fuel through on the down stroke but closes to prevent sucking air in on the up stroke.

1 ball is in the secondary vacuum diaphragm.

********
does this make sense to anyone else?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:39 am 
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You are out thinking yourself. The chances of figuring out this carb of yours is very slim, most carb guys have problems with these. For the money its going to cost to get it correct you could get a Weber, and yes the chances are better getting that through smog then what you have. Throw in the white sheet allready

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:05 am 
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Yes it makes sense. That is exactly how the accelerator pump system works in your carb.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 5:54 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
You are out thinking yourself. The chances of figuring out this carb of yours is very slim, most carb guys have problems with these. For the money its going to cost to get it correct you could get a Weber, and yes the chances are better getting that through smog then what you have. Throw in the white sheet allready


i see your point but its not going to fly explaining it to my dad
Image
and i would never hear the end of it not following the rules.

well we have received the sight glass back
the id # on the label says
8942173760

we have had some breakthrough
Image-
will know results of not giving up up on this dang thins
some pre conclusions
we have noticed is


2 carb FLANGE gaskets .
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0359
probably dont work all that well for mounting gaskets Imagelike the mounting gaskets we did have on it before the carb went to neighbors

carbs probably work best WITH gaskets where they are supposed to GO..... found on neighbors shop floor 2 days later still sealed in a bag by work space probably does nothing to seal vacuum on a carb while on the floor 4 miles away

screws probably help hold pieces together to prevent losing vacuum better when they arent insanely loose

so gaskets are ordered and when they come in lets hope my dying cow has been put out of the misery and we can focus next.. will keep everyone updated

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:50 pm 
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jkloos wrote:
Luvrv8 wrote:
You are out thinking yourself. The chances of figuring out this carb of yours is very slim, most carb guys have problems with these. For the money its going to cost to get it correct you could get a Weber, and yes the chances are better getting that through smog then what you have. Throw in the white sheet allready


i see your point but its not going to fly explaining it to my dad
Image
and i would never hear the end of it not following the rules.

well we have received the sight glass back
the id # on the label says
8942173760

thank you everyone for input to WHAT carb i have, haynes manual showed me as DCP but that probably is one huge error

we have had some breakthrough
Image-
will know results of not giving up up on this dang thins
some pre conclusions
we have noticed is


2 carb FLANGE gaskets .
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0359
probably dont work all that well for mounting gaskets Imagelike the mounting gaskets we did have on it before the carb went to neighbors

carbs probably work best WITH gaskets where they are supposed to GO..... found on neighbors shop floor 2 days later still sealed in a bag by work space probably does nothing to seal vacuum on a carb while on the floor 4 miles away

screws probably help hold pieces together to prevent losing vacuum better when they arent insanely loose

so gaskets are ordered and when they come in lets hope my dying cow has been put out of the misery and we can focus next.. will keep everyone updated

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