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we replaced the intake manifold gasket and the carb mounting gasket today. hooked all the vacuum lines and hoses and egr and all the fun stuff. went to start it , its hard to start have to keep pumping the gas. eventually after it does start it dies out every time. almost exactly 10 seconds after i can get it to start. as its dying no amount of pumping on the gas will get it to keep from dying. we took note of how each line came of and checked it like 5x and its right but it keeps dying. we had had it to start no problem 1st time and have point gap and timing good and spark plugs gapped right and havent had this problem. what did we do wrong. i so hope this is any easy fix when we took the part off all the fuel had drained out so i knew it would take some time to recover. we are getting the carb rebuild kit on the first any ideas?

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The fuel pump gets voltage when the key is at start position, then it runs when the charging system works. First check the carb sight glass after it dies for fuel. If no fuel you have a delervy issue

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

so we tried it and when the truck dies the carbs still is full with fuel. its about a centimeter on the top in the window
we had drained the coolant.
could we have increased vacuum to where my fuel pump cant handle the demand anymore since the exhaust and intake gaskets have been replaced and we had BIG vacuum leaks before. we didnt touch anything with distrubutor or timing or anything. previous days when we worked on those we started the car after every fixed thing. so all we did was the intake manifold gasket. . we have a new fuel filter on so i know its not that.
i have ac in the truck and the hoses for ac that run by the windshield the driver side had a fill spout that says keep tight coolant only? for what ever reason i dont know- looks like an add on in the line as far as the radiator- i read it could do this if i was low on coolant but we have double checked
the only disturbances were to coolant sensor, carb, and vacuum hoses all hoses are correct to our notes we took

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You recieved some good information in the previous post. I also suspect it is a fuel delivery problem. The electric fuel pump is turned on when the start circuit is energized, then when the engine starts the alternator sends a signal to the two relay regulator, the second internal relay sends current to the fuel pump relay which is located behind a shield on the right rear of the right fender. A lot of guys bypass this system and directly power (keyed 12V scorce) the wire going to the fuel pump to eliminate these relays, but this can be dangerous in an accident, etc. Checking out the fuel bowl to see if there is gas present after it shuts off is a good place to start diagnosing the problem.

mine is doing the exact same thing. starts. runs fine-ish for about 10 seconds then just faceplants. turns over starts again... repeat...

recently... (before this)
i just changed points and condensor on distributor, realised i had no fuel so i got a new fuel pump put in (for the 3rd time 0.o) my fuel pump is wired to the on post on my ignition so it will always run when key is on. and to put on my new brake master cylinder.
retuned my weber to its factory setting and checked timing to make sure i didnt F#*k it up. it is all good... i am going to check the power and ground wires to the fuel pump, coil, etc. if i can figure out whats messing mine up tomorrow i'll let you know.

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

ok the fuel pump IS working. tested it with a voltage meter took it off and tested it with the battery and it has pumping action. took it apart cleaned everything, reassembled and tested it with battery and and reconnected it to the lines and tested it again with the voltage meter. if i had the key to the on (only) position we had 5 volts, try to crank it over and it was variable but close to 10 volts. we suspect the fuel relay could be a possibility, perhaps its not sending signal to the pump to turn it on, all electrical connections we have come across have been cleaned with electrical cleaner and greased with the die electrical grease. i am just noticing though the gen light will stay on if i can get the truck to turn over, the oil light goes off but the gen light stays on. the alternator was newer, from having it replaced a few years ago along with (brain dead) the little gold box screwed on to the driverside front fender area under the hood). one connection was loose so that was redone. so frustrated right now i am about to push the POS over a cliff!!!

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Lets back up a bit here. As above if it dies and the sight glass shows fuel about half way up you don't have a fuel pump problem. You could have a plugged carb with dirt in the jets or something. Observe the sight glass on the carb, if it runs and then the level drops below the window before it dies, then yes the fuel pump run circuit through the alternator/regulator/relay is the problem. If it dies the instant you let go of the key then probably the ignition bypass relay circuit is the culprit. If it runs but poorly and you have to keep pumping the gas pedel I would look for a vacuum leak somewhere, maybe a missing plug somewhere or hose not connected to the power brakes as an example.
I know you checked all that but the symtems sound like that to me. Don't ask me how I know.

Fix the charging system and the fuel pump will come online. You said it yourself, the gen light stays on, fix that first and it might take car of the other issues.

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When my fuel relay went bad, I had the same symptoms, including the gen light. I bought a generic relay and had my bro in law wire it up, and it solved the problem.

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1974 Mikado 4x4 50,000 orig. miles

ok wasnt the relay switch, now the heat buzzer light wants to go off. i have the truck from hell!! the gen light never was on all the time after i (could )start it, just after we put back on the intake manifold gasket. then when i tried to start it after it was back together i ran into the dying problem
now it wont even start what so ever

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It has to be something you did wrong in the manifold repair.

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we were so very meticulous when we replaced the gasket on the intake. made sure no warp-age, immaculate surface the thin film of oil between the fingers on the gasket ect so i hope thats not the case. since i last posted we changed out the old fuel relay. every singe wire was checked to make sure there was currant from all 5 ports to where they go. so the relay is not the issue. but on the bright side life time warranty in it. all fuses have been cleaned and the fuse box cleaned. while he was triple checking each fuse thats where the culprit of the sudden heat light and my dash lights basically on the fritz on -off- ect. hadnt had an issue with those before, but that got straightened
si its not a wory. we took the fuel inlet jets off the carb and cleaned the screen tube .we jumped the air tubing with a scrap piece and blew thru every port to see if there were clogs. so we can only think that the fuel pump may not be pumping as hard as i need it too. we can prime the carb and it will stay running as long as we spray carb cleaner, the sight glass wasnt filling up to the dot in the middle as quickly as it should. assuming thats the level it should go ) so i am assuming its fuel pump not pumping hard enough maybe its weak. thankfully the first is around the corner i have been running on borrowed funds for this P.O.S. so looks like fuel pump and carb rebuild kit.

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Well you have definetly nailed it down to a fuel problem if it runs with the starting fluid, spray cleaner, feeding it. Have you checked the fuel pump pressure? Don't know what it should be but the manual should tell you. I have ran several v8s on a stock pump so it is adequate to the job, maybe you could borrow a spare pump to try. Also check the fuel line between the tank and the pump, a lot of us have been fooled by a bad hose there? Just a thought, but IF a vacumn line is hooked up wrong to the tank it will create a negative pressure in the tank and this will not allow the fuel to be sucked out of the tank, remove the fuel cap until you are through testing everything else. Just to be sure the vent line from the tank is open.
Keep trying, it is these little problems that will drive you nuts!!!
dp

I think its a mistake trying to rebuild the carb.

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If in fact a fuel problem be sure you replace the little known fuel filter inside the stock fuel pump. The stock pump is round and about the size if a pop can. The end comes off and out pops a filter and spring.

we took it apart and cleaned the entire contents of the fuel pump. being very meticulous while at it. it looks like the motor has gone intermittent and when it does work perhaps weaker than it should. it works.... sometimes sorta. having pumps for fish for years, if the prefilter gets to clogged the harder the pump wants to work and burns out or becomes weak.

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i am left with that at the moment as my ONLY financial option.

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there has just been an overwhelming chore with this P.O.S. age of parts had a lot to do with things. fix one thing to how it should be working and other things dont respond well to change so to speak ( i am NO expert though lol) when dad gave me the truck he said "probably could get much if i tried to sell it and dont know how much life it has in it" rubber is dry rotted, electrical crap corroded, i never drove this truck on a fwy in 4 years until just the other day- i have a phobia of fwys) its basically NEVER had giddy up and go it just .....goes. top speed its been driven fine at is 55 on long stretches on the surface streets. basically 0-60......eventually. we have worked so hard for the last 2 weeks not to mention almost daily trips to the auto parts store. if you touch ONE thing it wants to crumble if it doesn't its probably frozen I am very grateful to all the help and advice- partly the reason i didnt push it off a cliff

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well it ISNT the fuel pump or resister bypass relay or fuel pump relay not the coil not a blockage all of those and more are NEW. we came across this thread
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 656AATPpms
so we will look for the oil pressure sender thing tomorrow. a new scavenger hunt lol
but according to where it sounds like it is its probably in the area that could have gotten disturbed doing the intake manifold.
HOPEFULLY this is the last scavenger hunt to why its running only like 5-10 seconds and dying.

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What part is this?
What is it for?
How Do I test it?
Where do i get a new one?
Are we there yet??

Dont waste your time, this model truck has no connection from the oil pressure switch trigering the fuel pump. Luvs did not come stock like this, later chevys did.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.