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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 2:39 am 
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alright so here is the issue
while driving my truck seems to be missing.. not to the point where it dies or even stops going down the road.. but it is VERY noticable, it will jerk or get shakey for a few seconds then be just fine for a lil bit then same thing..
my dad was saying it sounded like an ignition issue, as if the engine was just not getting a usable spark for a moment or two..
and it has issues when accelerating once in a while... ever been in an automatic car with a crappin out tranny?? when you floor it and it just jumps and gets shakey as hell but doesnt gain speed?? same feeling. and you gotta ease off the gas for it to be able to gain speed again.

recent mods....
**BEFORE PROBLEM
weber 32/36 (ran like a dream with the weber before the problem and i re-tuned it since just in case)
solid core coil wire
new plug wires
**AFTER PROBLEM
MSD blaster II coil w/ballast resistor
NGK plugs

the only thing i havent replaced yet in my ignition system is the stock distributor. i did adjust my point gap when it gave me a similar problem before but it is still gapping.

could it be that my distributor has finally just had it and isnt able to keep sending out good usable spark anymore?? i am planning to throw in an electronic distributor from a pup to see if it solves the problem.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 6:24 am 
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da LUV masta

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LUV's have a weak link in the electrical system, the fusebox. The terminals the wires connect are riveted to the fuse holders. A little age and corrosion, and you get electrical intermittents. I solved mine by taking it apart and soldering the joints. Others have cleaned it with lemon juice, and others a new fuse box. It could be you are losing spark on and off.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 2:07 am 
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Labman wrote:
LUV's have a weak link in the electrical system, the fusebox. The terminals the wires connect are riveted to the fuse holders. A little age and corrosion, and you get electrical intermittents. I solved mine by taking it apart and soldering the joints. Others have cleaned it with lemon juice, and others a new fuse box. It could be you are losing spark on and off.


alright to i just gotta take it out and clean it up... or just replace it... i figure a fuse box is kind of a universal part..if it can hold enough fuses for the application and you can bolt it down its good to go? because the stock one does look kinda.... crappy?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 9:14 am 
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Location: plano , texas
Mine did almost the same thing and it was the fuel pump. It would run along and quit like you turned off the key. Wait a secopnd or too and she would restart. Might run a day or 100 ft before acting up again. I was sure it was ignition and was suprized whe pump fixed it.
Jay


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 2:57 pm 
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well i replaced the fuel pump, cleaned out the fuse box and sanded the contacts, etc
waiting for my next batch of parts to get here

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:06 am 
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also check all grounds that is another area for these trucks. make sure they are all clean and making good contact.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:29 am 
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I was so convinced it was ign I took a tach and taped it to the hood and went for a drive. truck would quit but tach still had reading ruled out ign.
Jay


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 1:18 am 
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fuel pump is new, all that is new. whole ignition system will be new.. the wire inside my old distributor was really frayed and messed up so i just said screw it and ordered the electronic p'up distributor. will be here thursday and if that doesnt do it i am going to go through the wiring harness and look for any possible weak point or faulty ground

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 4:46 am 
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See how it runs hotwired. Run a wire from the battery to where the ignition wire connects to the ballast resistor. If that solves the problem, it is a wiring problem.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:45 am 
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Labman wrote:
See how it runs hotwired. Run a wire from the battery to where the ignition wire connects to the ballast resistor. If that solves the problem, it is a wiring problem.

will check on that later this afternoon. that brings another question... with an electronic ignition do i still need the resistor since there are no points to fry?

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2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:29 pm 
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WHHHOOOOOOO!!!!!!!
got my new electronig distributor a day early got it hooked up and running as soon as i hooked it up!! found one of ctmandu old posts and answered the wiring question..
thanks for all the input everyone!

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2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride


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