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My 79 Luv with stock rebuilt engine (Weber carb) will run for several minutes and stall. It never quits outright, but loses power and then stalls which, to my non-mechanical mind, indicates a fuel feed issue. I have spent more $$ than I care to speak about with mechanics who deem that my suspicion is right. I'm on fuel pump #4 or 5 in the past year. Recently had the hoses replaced (thought maybe they were collapsing under fuel pump suction) had the tank looked at-No gunk/sock is clean. Got a new fuel pump and truck ran for approx. one full tank before problem came back. If I wait 30 minutes or so, I get another 5 minutes of run-time before it starves again.
Someone with knowledge please help me. if I replace any more parts, I'll have a new truck. And no $$ for retirement

I don't have a Webber Carb on mine so I have to ask is there a sight window on the carb you have to look into? Just curious if the carb is running dry....I guess the fuel line can pull closed thru suction but not normally. Have you moved your fuel pump from the normal position? When it stalls have you checked the lines to see if they are sucked closed? Try straight wiring your fuel pump for a while and see if that makes a difference.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

What do you mean by straight wiring the fuel pump? There is no sight window in the carb. I have not moved the fuel pump ( it is secured under the driver's side cross member and I am not sure if that is the orginal position). All new hoses three weeks ago.

What does the fuel filter look like?

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When you turn the Key to the start position your fuel pump is directly energized. After your vehicle starts, your fuel pump runs through circuitry from......the Alternator to the Voltage regulator to a relay under the cover on the passenger fender by the firewall to the fuel pump. I was thinking to eliminate all of that and rule out a possible issue somewhere in that loop.....spend a few minutes and wire the fuel pump to a toggle switch that you turn on when you get in the truck.

All of that circuitry is for safety, if you get in a wreck and your engine stops running then the fuel pump stops. Straight wiring your pump to a toggle switch would just be to see if it makes a difference. Not a way to leave it as a permanent fix.

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In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Thanks trainer, I'll give it a try. Ethekilledfred, fuel filter is new. I was completely fed up with it this afternoon, seriously, I have several thousand $ into this truck and I'm starting to feel lke a fool. Wife asked if we should sell it......AAAuuughh! (no).

These little trucks can be a pain in the @$$ at times...probably mo different than any other vehicle tho. When they are running right they are a lot of fun and get great mileage. Don't sell your LUV....unless the wife says so. Can't help you there.

Also, just to make sure this is indeed a fuel problem. Have you checked for a spark when it dies. I know it starts back up later and you did say it ran an entire tank before it did it stalled again but in the world of possibilities this could be a coil heating up and killing the engine and then starting again when it cools down. I know it's unlikely by the way you described the problem but...............

Good luck and keep us posted.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

I ran a direct line to the fuel pump and started it up. It ran for about five minutes and stalled out again. May I have the next suggestion please? (Also, I replaced the coil a few months ago).

Hmmm, do you know for sure the float is set at the right level in the Carb? Have you checked if the lines are collapsing under the suction of the pump? What PSI is the replacement pump you put on the truck? I know you've had the tank checked so you know for sure there is nothing foreign it it that could somehow block the input end of the hose in the tank right. When it stalls can you get it to restart with starting fluid or by putting a little bit of gas in the carb? Just a few more things to try.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Check to make sure you have replaced both fuel filters..my 75 has two..one at the tank and one right before the carb. also check to make sure that your rubber fuel lines aren't kinked..you won't get enough fuel volume if it won't flow it.Also check the connections on your new fuel pump..especially the ground. And you might want to completely drop your tank and clean it.The sock may be clean but there could be enough rust floating around to plug the pickup or return for the tank.Also try running the truck with the fuel cap off.If the evaporative system is plugged it won't let the fuel com out of the tank and will vapor lock it.
I have gone through 5 fuel pumps since April of 2010.

What pump are you running? I had to regulate my fuel pressure to get the webber to work. Around 2.5 I believe stock or after market runs 5-7. It helped when i got started with the webber...

or the wrong jets in it.....

Somone should really make a weber sticky!!!!

Any update? Keep us posted.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Next time it dies try hot wiring it and see if it runs cause i think you have an electrical problem not a fuel problem. But try driving the truck with the fuel cap loose and see if that changes anything.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

All good suggestions. I have attempted in the past to run it with a loosened fuel cap, I have direct-wired the fuel pump to rule out electrical issues between battery and pump, I am now going to run it while I'm under it to see if the new hoses are being sucked closed by an overactive fuel pump. I am not sure how to check the float in my weber carb as there is no window. It will start if I spray starting fluid into the carb after the stall, so I think that rules out carb issues. I'll post an update when this occurs. Meanwhile, if you have ANY other suggestions, please forward them.

I'm thinking coil issues. Getting hot and then cutting out.

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I've never been wrong! Once I thought I was, but I was mistaken.
Rick
Loranger, La
1980 Stepside LUV (Again)

The reason for hot wiring or for those who don't understand run a wire from a battery source to the hot side (battery) of the coil.This will bypass all ignition circuits and leave the coil and dist. to suspect then you can back trace a problem from there.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

[quote="veemanator] It will start if I spray starting fluid into the carb after the stall, so I think that rules out carb issues. I'll post an update when this occurs. Meanwhile, if you have ANY other suggestions, please forward them.[/quote]

That still may not rule out carb issues. The carb can burn whatever excess there is until it runs out and then stall again. I have seen this before..... just not on a weber. I know this is an on going issue but it should be something we can figure out. O2, Fuel and Heat (Spark) if your vehicle stalls there is one of these missing or there is to much of one. Since it isn't flooding I would guess one is missing. The fact that it will start with starting fluid tells me fuel is not getting to the carb, where this is falling short, it's hard to tell without being there. You mentioned your fuel cap...it is vented right?

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

Here'a a question for you. The guy at the local Oreilly's sells me a fuel filter and states that it should not be placed between the gas tank and the fuel pump, but between the pump and the carb. So I start to thinking that if this is right, a gummed up fuel filter may make fuel-sucking hard on the fuel pump....which may be why I have killed about 5 in the last year. What are your thoughts?

I have replaced the fuel filter. It sits in a metal cradle between the fuel cell and the pump, so this makes me doubt the knowledge base of the auto parts store guy about fuel filter placement (see above)... The fuel pump no longer works. Don't know what brand it is as the mechanic put it on, I'll buy another one, but I know beyond any doubt that it will work for about a tank of gas before she gives up the ghost again. This will be number 6.... I think that I may replace the opaque (can't see through it) fuel filter with a clear plastic one so I can see how dirty it gets. Any suggestions on why I'm eating fuel pumps would be awesome. Thanks in advance.

The filter in front of the pump dose and will seem to plug up faster cause it is harder to pull through it then push.

There is a screen on the fuel pick up in the tank and it could be getting plugged either on would make the fuel pump work a lot harder then normal when getting plugged.

The funny part is that the filter before the pump protects the pump from debris but is a restriction. Catch 22

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s