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I just rebuit the stock carb on my 1974 chevy luv, i started it and it ran perfect, about 5 minutes into driving it it just died on me, i got it started again and i could barely make it home, i checked all vacuume lines everything looked good, now, when it came to the float adjustment, i adjusted it like the paper in the carb kit told me to do, but nowhere in there told me where the air/fuel mixture screw was supposed to be set at? i pulled out the air/fuel screw and it had a little wear mark in it, i rolled it in fine sandpaper to shine it up, i put it back in tightened it up and backed it out 1.5 ish times, it seems to run alot better then it did but it smells rich, does that have to do woth the float or air/fuel adjustment????? i am going to do a carter conversion on it but right now money is tight, i getting 10mpg with my dodge and need this little truck to make it to work, any/all help appreciated!!!

Having the float set correctly is of no use if it sticks. I am convinced that the float sticking is one of the biggest problems with carbs. I finally put a couple of spacers made from plastic tubing on the pivot rod on mine to hold the float in the middle. I don't think mine ever had the ones some people report having.

Get the adjustment screws where they belong, and they stay there. The float is a PITA.

Yep, float sticks on my '75 also.

Eyeing a weber...

my float has the little copper spacer that i put back in after rebuild, it doesent seem stickey at all, fuel is maybe a millimeter below the dot on the inspection window, where are the adjustment screws supposed to be set at?

If the little copper spacer is in place between the glass and the float pivot I have never had one stick.
The adjustment goes like this: With the engine warmed up, choke off, the mixture screw about two turns back out from lightly seated. Adjust the idle speed to 700 rpm with the speed screw, not the mixture screw. Then slowly turn in or out to the highest speed with the mixture screw. If the idle changes reset the "speed screw" back to 700 rpm again and go back to the mixture and repeat. Go back and forth between the two adjustments untill you get the best, smoothest idle at 700 rpm. This is how you do an idle adjustment with about any carb however other car models may have a different idle speed required.

i got the thing to idle good now, doesent seem to be running rich, but not when its nice and warmed up, it idles pretty good, when i hit the gas is just bogs out, is it possibly something to do with the electrontics? i unplug the electrical plug that runs to the carb and nothing happens, it revs fine when its cold but when its nice and warm it bogs when gas is hit. thanks for all the info

When you rebuilt the carb did you replace the accelerator pump? I had the same problem with mine before I rebuilt it. It ran fine when it was cold but wouldn't drive for crap once it warmed up. I've had this happen on a few other carbs before.

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When in doubt floor it. If you can't floor it then you've doubted yourself.

which is the accelerator pump? i replaced everything that was in the kit,

It is the little doo dad with a rod sticking out of the top of carb with a linkage to the throttle. Open the throttle and the vacuum needed to suck gas in dies. The pump gives a squirt of gas to allow the engine to build revs and vacuum.

i did put new one in, it did have it in the kit, is there supposed to be 0-rings or any lind of rings on the shaft? i put it in, the kit came with a new shaft, gasket and rummer that goes on the top, as far as the ball, it looked in good shabe i left it in, maybe i should have put the plastic one in that it came with? the original is metal.

i took apart the acc pump, replaced the metal ball with the plastic one in the kit, it still doing the same thing, i tried the carb cleaner spray at idle at base of carb to see if its leaking, nothing changes, im at a standstill, the only other thing i can do is buy a new carb. it anyone has had this prob please let me know, i dont have the money at the moment to get a new carb, wold like to atleast drive the truck. thankz

When I bought the kit for my carb it had an accelerator pump pre-assembled, I didn't have to do any disassembling of it. Maybe that is your problem. But it does sound like it is still your accelerator pump.

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When in doubt floor it. If you can't floor it then you've doubted yourself.

i was thinking of the wrong part, i took acc pump apart but the kit didnt come with anything to rebuild it so i just put it back together, didnt look like there was any cracks in diaphram, but who knows, ill look for a kit for that,

Your kit should have come with one but idk. Just because it doesn't look bad doesn't mean it isn't. Mine didn't look bad either.

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When in doubt floor it. If you can't floor it then you've doubted yourself.