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I've done tried two different MC and all I get is a stiff petal and not much brakes if any at all. I've done all the seaches and would like someone too tell which one to buy that will work. The guy that hooked up the first one used one from a CJ 5 jeep and hooked up both lines from the MC to a tee and only to the front brakes( that shouldn't be a problem should it) and it hard a very hard pedel but no stopping power. I just got through installing one from Brake Best MC39476 and it feels the same way with the hard pedel, haven't had time to drive it but I'm not exspecting any change. Just for info the front is a Toyota straight axle with Toyota stock brakes and I just want to stop. I know Mytmouse has manual on his and was wondering how much pedel pressure he has.

lol, JUST changed to a new MC this weekend, before I went to the track. I have discs all the way around mine, if you have the drums on either end, you will need an adjustable proportioning valve. Toss the factory one either way, it won't be needed. ALso, be aware, if you need to rework your stock lines (ie, cut and reflare) be aware that they are annealed, and a PITA to get to work, as they will split. Either get the adapters to go to from the Japanese metric threads ( different from English Metric) to the SAE stuff, to adapt the stockers to the new stuff, or replace the entire line with the generic ones at the parts store.. My new master stops very well, with plenty of pressure (other one had too big as bore and pedal felt mushy). My new one is for a 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z turbo car, it was $40.00 new from my local NAPA with no core (and it is new, with the reservoir, not a rebuilt one). Part # is M2534...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

10-4 Thank's. I'll be out of town all week working won't get much time to work on them, something must be wrong with my crap. I've got new caliphers new brake pads and the pedel is right at the top with alot of pressure and it's on a toyota straight axle.

Guru,
We switched over to an Aero disc system. We then used a 1994 dodge carvan m/c with out a booster.
Drum brakes in the rear and it is a Dana 20 all stock.
Good pedal and great braking from a top speed of 123mph in the quarter.
Mr.T

I've got both lines from the mc running together going to just the front brakes is that wrong? Do I need to adjust the rod that I built that goes from the back of the mc the brake pedel, I measured the correct length and put it in the same hole on the the brake pedel. Or should I use the old brake valve for my front brakes, I'll be trying to install rear brakes at a later date I'm just trying to get front brakes for now.

What mc do you have now? If it is for a disc/drum set up, that wouldn't be the best way to do it, if it were me, and no rear brakes, I would tee off the front brakes (together) and run them to the mc in one port, and plug the other port until I got the rears ready...

And goolge aerospace or willwood, in their tech section, they have a write up on rod angle ratio, with a detailed explanation of what you need to do to check it.

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MC39476 fits Dodge Caravan 84-95 and I'll look for the other stuff you told me about. I moved the mc down the firewall until it lined up with the brake pedel and drilled new holes. I'll cap off the front hole and run just the rear to the front brakes and see how that works.

Ckecked aerospace website and I understand that the distance on my brake pedal where I hooked up my rod is wrong. Didn't know you have to be at 7to1 ratio for manual brakes, it took me a minutes to figure out what they was talking about so now I'll have to drill a new hole in my brake pedal and move my mc up alittle. Thank's again I'll let you know how it turns out.

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Hey mrT what was your measurement from your pivot point on your pedal mine came out to 1.875" if I figured right? I'm using the same one as you 94 Caravan and are you using the stock valve or did you bypass it? Would like to take the brake pedal out to drill it but don't know how hard that's going to be.

Guru,
Reguarding the pedal angle. I bolted up the Dodge m/c cylinder(without the power booster) to the stock location and didnot change the pedal location.
I didnot bypass any restictors-all stock. Just before last weekends race we ran new lines(3/16) and hose from the tee on back.
Phil,the driver, said that made a big improvement. He was able to stop way before the return road and this was at 124mph.
Mr.T

hey got ? while everyone is on topic..what size bore are you using for your brake mc?

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Epic Fabrication.
KAOS

.944

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you did the s10swap in the front didnt you...runin the s10 calipers...howd that affect your brakes? as far as feel and response and all..jus wonderin cuz i thin the s10 run a 1.00 bore if im not mistaken..cause i bought the wilwood remote mount brake makster cyclinder gona runs duals under my dash and was wondering bout how much of a diff it makes with the bore size.

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KAOS

No, I did willwood brakes, I tried the larger bore MC, and the brake feel was spongy. (Should have listened to their tech guy in the first place...) For what it is worth, I have the Lincoln Versailles factory discs on the rear as well...

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hmm thanx for that for a while itll have 98 blazer stock 2 piston calipers on it for a while all round..thanx for the info

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KAOS

Got mine going this weekend and I've got brakes now, going the 7to1 ratio on the paddle made all the difference(happy now).

OK finally got around to installing the back disc brakes and I can't get the brake peddle pressure right. I've installed a portorional valve and can't get peddle pressure on the first pump on the peddle but on the second pump it gets alittle better and the thrid pump it's about as good as it's going to get, my bore size is 24mm and have bled and bled the the mc and it hasn't got any better.( Not happy now)